Timney Trigger Issue

[wkdickinson]

With little to do during the pandemic I've been working on sporterizing a Mauser 98. It's pretty well done and it turned out pretty good for my first try at chambering a barrel and drilling a receiver for scope mounts. But I am having a problem with the new Timney "Featherweight" trigger that I installed (purchased directly from Timney). The trigger function flawlessly, but it has drastically increased the effort required when lifting the bolt handle to cock the firing pin. I've contacted Timney's Tech Dept. 3 times (2 emails and 1 voicemail) over the last 3 weeks and gotten no response.

Any suggestions?

 

[wkdickinson]

Maybe I should be more specific - any suggestions as to how to make it easier to cock? Their customer service is what it is, can't do much about that.

 

[rwj]

I’m not familiar with Mauser actions... but how would the trigger effect cocking force? Can the original trigger be reinstalled? Were any actions performed to the bolt?

 

[SBS]

Upon raising the bolt, the cocking piece moves rearward and has to force the sear down. Timney used to sell 98 triggers with sears of 2 different heights as I recall. Perhaps a shim between the rear of the trigger housing and the bottom of the receiver might lower the sear. Since 98 Mausers were produced in huge numbers over 50 years and in 20 different countries, there is considerable variations in them. As on any conventional modern bolt action, it always pays to lightly polish and grease the cocking ramp which the cocking piece is forced up each time the bolt is lifted and cocked. Sometimes just bluing the bolt (which etches the steel) is enough to make the bolt hard to cock. After a blue job, I always polish and grease this ramp. Also check and see if the sear has enough room to move freely throughout its motions vs. the slot for it cut in the bottom of the receiver. This hole varies in size also depending on the size of the military sear it was designed for. I've had to enlarge this hole for a number of 98's when installing an aftermarket trigger.

 

[wkdickinson]

Upon raising the bolt, the cocking piece moves rearward and has to force the sear down. Timney used to sell 98 triggers with sears of 2 different heights as I recall. Perhaps a shim between the rear of the trigger housing and the bottom of the receiver might lower the sear. Since 98 Mausers were produced in huge numbers over 50 years and in 20 different countries, there is considerable variations in them. As on any conventional modern bolt action, it always pays to lightly polish and grease the cocking ramp which the cocking piece is forced up each time the bolt is lifted and cocked. Sometimes just bluing the bolt (which etches the steel) is enough to make the bolt hard to cock. After a blue job, I always polish and grease this ramp. Also check and see if the sear has enough room to move freely throughout its motions vs. the slot for it cut in the bottom of the receiver. This hole varies in size also depending on the size of the military sear it was designed for. I've had to enlarge this hole for a number of 98's when installing an aftermarket trigger.

I didn't make any changes to the bolt. Cocking ramp is well greased as is the cocking piece on the bolt and the trigger sear. There is no issue with clearance for the trigger sear. I can push the sear down with my thumb. The surface on the cocking piece that engages with the trigger during cocking is very smooth.

I put the original trigger back in and it cocks with minimal effort. So it has to be something to with the Timney trigger.

 

[wkdickinson]

Almost certainly the timney engages earlier and creates significant "cock on close". There is a lot of information in dealing with that and a lot of things to be conscious of when adjusting. --Jerry

This is a 98, which cocks on opening.

 

[carlsbad]

This is a 98, which cocks on opening.

Oops. Missed that. too much multitasking.

 

[wkdickinson]

Oops. Missed that. too much multitasking.

LOL, I can relate!

 

[SBS]

Try putting the Timney back in and pulling on the trigger when raising up on the bolt. This would definitely release the sear making it easier for the cocking piece to push it down. If that works, compare the front of the sear on the military to that on the Timney for difference on the shape of the area that contacts the back of the cocking piece which has to push it down. Also measure with calipers any difference between where the front of the sear is located vs. the bottom of the receiver on both triggers. If no solution, I would still try a shim under the back of the trigger housing to lower the sear. Might also try giving the trigger a little more overtravel. Make sure there is sufficient clearance between trigger and t/g. All I can think of. If nothing members suggest works, keep pestering Timney.

 

[wkdickinson]

Try putting the Timney back in and pulling on the trigger when raising up on the bolt. This would definitely release the sear making it easier for the cocking piece to push it down. If that works, compare the front of the sear on the military to that on the Timney for difference on the shape of the area that contacts the back of the cocking piece which has to push it down. Also measure with calipers any difference between where the front of the sear is located vs. the bottom of the receiver on both triggers. If no solution, I would still try a shim under the back of the trigger housing to lower the sear. Might also try giving the trigger a little more overtravel. Make sure there is sufficient clearance between trigger and t/g. All I can think of. If nothing members suggest works, keep pestering Timney.

Great suggestions! Thanks, I will try them and report the results.

 

[biggun2869]

Ask Gmac I understand he is the Mauser guru on here, if he doesn't respond to this, PM him. Gary

 

[wkdickinson]

Try putting the Timney back in and pulling on the trigger when raising up on the bolt. This would definitely release the sear making it easier for the cocking piece to push it down. If that works, compare the front of the sear on the military to that on the Timney for difference on the shape of the area that contacts the back of the cocking piece which has to push it down. Also measure with calipers any difference between where the front of the sear is located vs. the bottom of the receiver on both triggers. If no solution, I would still try a shim under the back of the trigger housing to lower the sear. Might also try giving the trigger a little more overtravel. Make sure there is sufficient clearance between trigger and t/g. All I can think of. If nothing members suggest works, keep pestering Timney.

SBS - A .032" shim (I cut off a feeler gauge) under the back of the trigger solved the problem. Now there is very little more effort to raise the bolt handle with the trigger in, compared to no trigger at all (just the cocking ramp). Thanks so much!!!

Truly one of the great things about this forum - so many people, with so much knowledge, that are willing to share it! Thank you to everyone who offered suggestions!

Wayne

 

[RPSGuns]

You mentioned drilling and tapping for scope bases. Check to see if one of the base screws is protruding into the bolt raceway on the rear bridge.

 

[wkdickinson]

You mentioned drilling and tapping for scope bases. Check to see if one of the base screws is protruding into the bolt raceway on the rear bridge.

I checked that early on. Not an issue. The trigger shim solved the problem.

 

[Pyscodog]

I know this is an old post but after installing a Timney in my Mauser I'm having the same issues. I tried the shim but got no success. It actually made it worse. Not being real familiar with Mausers its got me a little puzzled.

 

[wkdickinson]

Sorry, I can only tell you what worked for me and the shim solved the problem. Maybe you need a thick or thinner shim. Someone early in this thread also suggest backing the "overtravel" screw off a bit to give it more room to move. I would also try calling Timney, maybe you will have better luck getting a response than I did.

Good luck!

 

[Pyscodog]

I have about a .032 gap between the trigger and the action. I tried .037 and I couldn't open the bolt at all. I quit there as I really didn't know what to do next. I've had a couple of Mausers before but by no means know much about them. The original factory trigger was horrible. My smith did a trigger job and made it lighter but still horrible only slightly lighter. I installed the Timney and it made a world of difference. Finally a real trigger. I'll try working with the over travel and see if that helps. Thanks

 

[Pyscodog]

Just had a thought. If my trigger is .032 away from my action, that's got to effect bolt opening. Yes?

 

[Ggmac]

Great suggestions! Thanks, I will try them and report the results.

Timney made triggers for commercial actions which had different cocking pieces . The cocking piece is solid , meaning the sear contact area is one height not a v shape . The solid bottom kept the sear down , not allowing it to raise as needed in the original trigger set up . Be careful now . The excess pressure needed could damage the new trigger attaching holes . No coffee yet so .... check out the package or post a pic of your trigger sear and cocking piece

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Not all commercial mausers have the straight bottom cocking piece. They run the spectrum.
Is your trigger possibly resetting after firing, as in, the sear rising up into that shallow V in the bottom of the cocking piece and being caught by the trigger piece? I would recommend setting it up so that you are able to watch the cycle. Troubleshooting while it is in the stock isn't very easy.