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Time to make the donuts....

I have Ferris Pindell bullet dies in 22 and 6mm. His bullet dies were made to go into what he called "body dies" that threaded into the presses he made from RCBS Rock Chucker presses. My body dies look very similar to the black die ridgeway posted a picture of above.

Ferris sold me a 6mm tipping die back around 2000, I think. He was the first one I ever heard of doing this, and I went over to his house to pick it up.

I also think he was the first one to start making double ogive dies. He and I sat at his kitchen table and he drew up a two ogive bullet design, using one tangent ogive and one secant ogive blended into the first one. I didn't actually follow his thought process (or the math involved), and I don't know if that was the FIRST double ogive bullet, but I had not seen others at that time. He made a few of those double ogive point-up dies for me. I think I still have his drawing around here somewhere.

Ferris was a great guy. I miss him...
 
Topic: ogives.

I have a 6mm Pindell Die to make 6x grain FB bullets. I have no documentation as to what ogive it supposed to be. I was able to use a comparator under 20x to plot several points on the radius. I am coming up with a possible 8.7 ogive. Now this was with 3 points spread out along the entire radius. Now I plotted a few points close just above the shank and I see a larger radius at 2.755r and upper portion 2.216r. I am guessing this die was intended to be a 9ogive or double? based on what I can see on comparator. Its so hard to tell if anything is a double radius without spending hours mapping and plotting points. Unless I am going about it the wrong way, haha. Just looking for some thoughts....
 
Getting ready for TackDriver 6, I shot one of my 6PPC’s today IMG_0973.jpegIMG_0972.jpegwith my 68 grn BT with Lubed Cores.

I am using one gallon of acetone with three tablespoons of non synthetic (cheap) ATF mixed in. I put it in a large Stainless Colander and put 700 cores in. I let them soak for about 5 minutes, them drain them, let the acetone evaporate off. The ATF remains. The cores turn a real dark grey.

They shoot pretty good.
 
Getting ready for TackDriver 6, I shot one of my 6PPC’s today View attachment 1691303View attachment 1691304with my 68 grn BT with Lubed Cores.

I am using one gallon of acetone with three tablespoons of non synthetic (cheap) ATF mixed in. I put it in a large Stainless Colander and put 700 cores in. I let them soak for about 5 minutes, them drain them, let the acetone evaporate off. The ATF remains. The cores turn a real dark grey.

They shoot pretty good.
Sixes look good! Let us know when you try it on your .30’s. I am still making all of mine dry at this point.
 
For you bullet makers, just a random question. All other things being equal, which is more desirable. A heavier jacket or a lighter jacket?
 
Thanks George. We always appreciate your insight.
Next question.
Is there a good way to determine what core weigh / fill that you should use to make the "best" bullet possible in your particular dies? Percent of jacket fill? Form to some distance beyond the lead line? I know the easy button for instance is to use the .925" jacket and make a 112 grain bullet in my 7 ogive die. And perhaps make some lighter and some heavier and test them to see what shoots best. But I guess my question might be better stated as "Is there a scientific way to determine the proper core weight?"
Thanks in advance.
 
Good question.
What I realized is that with 1,200" grain jackets, you can make 168 and 175 grain bulets with a 7 ogive.
However, if you try to make a 168 grain 13 ogive in that same jacket, it fills with lead practically to the tip and requires much more effort to close the tip.
 
Joe, I’m not George, but here at Tomball, Jim Moore has been doing a lot of experimenting with bullet weights all the way from 102 grains to 115, all on .925 jackets.

He likes the 102’s because he can get a lot of velocity.

I played with it a couple years ago, I got a 30 squirt die so I could play around with different weights.

I finally decided it was not worth the effort. A 112 on all of those jackets I have shoots as well as anything. So I just stick with it. The cores are 74.2 grains.
Thanks George. We always appreciate your insight.
Next question.
Is there a good way to determine what core weigh / fill that you should use to make the "best" bullet possible in your particular dies? Percent of jacket fill? Form to some distance beyond the lead line? I know the easy button for instance is to use the .925" jacket and make a 112 grain bullet in my 7 ogive die. And perhaps make some lighter and some heavier and test them to see what shoots best. But I guess my question might be better stated as "Is there a scientific way to determine the proper core weight?"
Thanks in advance.
 
Joe, I’m not George, but here at Tomball, Jim Moore has been doing a lot of experimenting with bullet weights all the way from 102 grains to 115, all on .925 jackets.

He likes the 102’s because he can get a lot of velocity.

I played with it a couple years ago, I got a 30 squirt die so I could play around with different weights.

I finally decided it was not worth the effort. A 112 on all of those jackets I have shoots as well as anything. So I just stick with it. The cores are 74.2 grains.
Thanks Jackie. I was not necessarily directing the question to George but rather to any of the knowledgeable folks on here.
I have shot a good number of Cline’s 108 gr bullets and they shoot very well. But they are a longer give than my 7’s. Maybe Jim can tell us what ogive his bullets are.
 
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Because the material yields easier with less pressure
George can you provide a weight for a light jacket and a heavy jacket (6mm 825 & 790)

Has the weight of jackets changed over the years?
Was the weight of the jacket the reason some were heat treating jackets a few years ago?

Thanks
 
Did a short run (500) of my 114's on the .925" jacket in the Robinett carbide point die 10 days ago.
KUEF0Drl.jpg


Coincidently, today is the first time in 10 days that my left index finger is out of the dressing. :oops:
eAn6q9Ul.jpg


Good shootin' :) -Al
 

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