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Time to make the donuts....

Years ago I had a section of core wire on a new roll that was a bit 'oxi-dusty' for some reason. I cut it into 24" lengths, put them in a wall paper water tray and covered them with Simple Green Concentrate and water diluted 4:1. The next day they were nice and clean.

I like the dishwasher idea. Wayne's probably got a helluva dishwasher. :cool:
 
G´day

Starting to test a new (for me) set of dies. Boat tail core seating with Blackmon die and point up with Simonson dies. With less pressure on the core seating, the diameter just after leaving the die is .2242" and the boat tail (heel) has more rounded edges. With more pressure, the diameter is .2243" and the edges (heel) are flatter. I understand that I should test and see which one is better, but what would be the first option for you, more experienced ones?

Tks
 

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The main thing is to make sure that the jacket is 100% filled with the core. The one with the rounded corners might not be.
Randy Robinette gave me the best way to determine the core seat.
Measure the length of the jackets, seat a core in one that you are sure is a little loose, but did expand. It should be shorter.

Then keep adding a little cores pressure until you detect around .002 growth in length. That means the course has filled the jacket completely, and since the die walls keep it from growing anymore, it will start to get a little longer in length. Do not over do as I did, for a while. Randy set be straight.

At that point, the bullet jacket should have a certain feel coming out of the die.

Not to question your effort too much, but you mentioned your core die and point up die are made by two different manufacturers. A core seat die and a point up die should be a matched set.
 
The main thing is to make sure that the jacket is 100% filled with the core. The one with the rounded corners might not be.
Randy Robinette gave me the best way to determine the core seat.
Measure the length of the jackets, seat a core in one that you are sure is a little loose, but did expand. It should be shorter.

Then keep adding a little cores pressure until you detect around .002 growth in length. That means the course has filled the jacket completely, and since the die walls keep it from growing anymore, it will start to get a little longer in length. Do not over do as I did, for a while. Randy set be straight.

At that point, the bullet jacket should have a certain feel coming out of the die.

Not to question your effort too much, but you mentioned your core die and point up die are made by two different manufacturers. A core seat die and a point up die should be a matched set.
Thats good for a flat base but not really going to work for a boattail
 
Thats good for a flat base but not really going to work for a boattail
As I have the die to make a flat base too, perhaps I can use this method in which the jacket stretches and replicate it with the same pressure in the core seat operation of the boat tail bullet.
 
Liseo, No because you are stretching the boattail before you stretch the jacket...Looking at your picture the one on the left is better but not quite seated hard enough yet...
George, how do you tell when you have seated the boattail core hard enough? When you have "stretched" the jacket enough. It seems measurable with a flatbase. But when is enough "enough" on a boattail?
Thanks for your expertise.
 
Joe, I generally judge the corner radius, bleedby, and diameter. if I get a stretch mark at the lead line its to much. I am also a big fan of cutting open a bullet length ways to see how the core looks when seated. If theres a problem thats where you will find it. I also use a bullet spinner to check runout of the seated core. it usually works out when they are spinning true they are seated correctly...
 
Joe, I generally judge the corner radius, bleedby, and diameter. if I get a stretch mark at the lead line its to much. I am also a big fan of cutting open a bullet length ways to see how the core looks when seated. If theres a problem thats where you will find it. I also use a bullet spinner to check runout of the seated core. it usually works out when they are spinning true they are seated correctly...
George, when you say “stretch mark” is that any line showing around the outside of the jacket? I usually seat the core until I see a faint thin line, a little bleed by, and a slight taper .243.05 at boat tail and .243.10 at the lead line. What can I use to spin the core seated bullet to check run out?
 
Joe, I generally judge the corner radius, bleedby, and diameter. if I get a stretch mark at the lead line its to much. I am also a big fan of cutting open a bullet length ways to see how the core looks when seated. If theres a problem thats where you will find it. I also use a bullet spinner to check runout of the seated core. it usually works out when they are spinning true they are seated correctly...
Thank you George. As usual, you give excellent advice. This string has more practical advice and knowledge than any other I have followed. And i believe i have read all the bullet making threads.
 
The best path for BT is to preform both the jacket and the core: this results in punch fit/selection & seating/bleed-by results very similar to making FB.
Poor quality, however, this pic displays the heel-radius variety due to seating without and with prefromed materials. The preformed are easy to spot: squarer is better - especially regarding BC uniformity . . . 'ball-tail' bleeds performance.
RG 8638A36C-2F57-44D9-92BC-092E5D561983_1_105_c.jpeg
11E432DC-CD8D-4217-8CA4-F6382D4BD50B_1_201_a.jpeg
 
Randy's jacket stretch guideline is one of the biggest nuggets of gold in this thread. I encourage anyone making their own bullets to also use cutaways as you get familiar with your core seating pressure. This is a raggedy-azzed Dremel job but the info is there as to how the core fits the jacket. You'll be surprised at the internal appearance of the pleats, too.
y6gR6xal.jpg
 
The best path for BT is to preform both the jacket and the core: this results in punch fit/selection & seating/bleed-by results very similar to making FB.
Poor quality, however, this pic displays the heel-radius variety due to seating without and with prefromed materials. The preformed are easy to spot: squarer is better - especially regarding BC uniformity . . . 'ball-tail' bleeds performance.
RG View attachment 1672779
View attachment 1672780
Randy or George, can you explain the preforming process? I am taking a guess here, but is the core seat die(obviously no core) used with a special punch? Lubed?
 
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George, when you say “stretch mark” is that any line showing around the outside of the jacket? I usually seat the core until I see a faint thin line, a little bleed by, and a slight taper .243.05 at boat tail and .243.10 at the lead line. What can I use to spin the core seated bullet to check run out?
Any discolored line showing that the jacket is stretching. they will turn a bright gold color as the jacjet starts to separate. you can use a bullet spinner or just rig up female centers and an indicator..
 
Randy's jacket stretch guideline is one of the biggest nuggets of gold in this thread. I encourage anyone making their own bullets to also use cutaways as you get familiar with your core seating pressure. This is a raggedy-azzed Dremel job but the info is there as to how the core fits the jacket. You'll be surprised at the internal appearance of the pleats, too.
y6gR6xal.jpg
Al I like cutting down both sides and peeling it off like a banana to examine the core ...
 

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