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Tikka T3 bolt end clearance

What clearance are you guys using between end of bolt and barrel on the tikka T3 with Sako extractor? Factory was .02. With extractor installed and .01 clearance the assembled bolt will close. It must be pushing the extractor a little though when it does because it's sticking out around .015. Is .01 enough or should I go more? Thanks
 
Thanks, and common sense tells me that also. Does it hurt to have it push the spring in a little when closing on an empty chamber. When a case is in there is .01 clearance. I know it's a dumb question, just have never messed with a Sako extractor and really don't like having that much clearance if not necessary.
 
With a case in, the end of the extractor is flush with the end of the bolt. With no case in the extractor pivots to where it sticks out from the end of the bolt .015. I machined the barrel to have .01 clearance with the bolt with the extractor removed. Now with it installed, closing the bolt lets the end of the barrel touch the extractor and push it in around .005 on an empty chamber. It can't be felt but it has to be doing it from measurements. Since I'm not shooting the gun without a case in, I was wondering if this is ok.
 
Resurrecting this old thread please:

I began taking measurements on the T3 bolt and action I’m about to rebarrel, and found the extractor sticking beyond the bolt nose. Just like the original poster in this thread.

With no case in the bolt, the extractor at rest (as shown in the pics) protrudes 18 or 19 thousandths. As was mentioned in this thread, the extractor can be pushed rearward. I can feel some spring pressure when I press it in. A total guess but maybe 2lbs. I can easily press it a bit beyond flush with the bolt nose. I didn’t notice any extractor wear marks on the rear of the factory barrel however, but then I don’t think this rifle was used very much.

When a case is under the extractor, I can press the extractor rearward a bit. But I can’t accurately say how much the tip of the extractor sticks out (if any) beyond the bolt nose.

I didn’t measure the factory’s bolt nose clearance before disassembly and have since faced the action to remove the radius. So I can’t really determine what clearance was. Regardless, I’d like to shoot for 8 thousandths clearance as I did on a couple Savages.

I’m wondering if since this 2014 message thread, there’s been any recent conclusions drawn about this situation, that I did not find in my search. Have any of you rebarreled a T3 with a minimum clearance, and run in to interference problems? The extractor tip could be ground back a few thousandths but would loose some of the ramp.

Edit to add: If I allow the extractor under spring force to contact the barrel, is that apt to affect accuracy (group size)? I read on other forums where the factory T3 clearance is reported to be 20-21 thousandths. I just don’t like that much unsupported case.

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That does look excessive. Personally I would grind it back a little if you can do so without damaging the extractor. I am a fan of a fully supported case as well for peace of mind. I have a Stolle Panda that had the same issue, called Kelbly's, and they said grind it and they would cover the extractor if it broke. Still running 10 yrs later, as we speak!

Paul
 
Thanks Paul. I too was thinking about grinding it back a bit, I’d hope to be able to find another extractor if need be.

I could build with say 8 thousandths clearance leaving the extractor contact the barrel. Then see how the bolt cycles and how it shoots. Then grind the extractor if needed. I read about other people using T3 actions and thought perhaps they’ve been through this already and could advise me.
 

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