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Throat Reamer for .308 Win

One of mine rifle was chamber with Palma 95 Reamer which has .050 fb

In case that I need the longer throat to shoot the heavier bullet,

How many tools that required for throating?



I know that I have to buy Throat Reamer but not sure about specific tool that use to control the lenght. I read some forum and found that some smith using Adjusting Micro Meter Reamer Holder. Where I can buy those things?
 
I talked with Dave Kiff this morning. He is going to make some 1.* guide bushings for Remington and Savage actions that will act as a rear guide for the PT&G Uni-throater, and have them in stock. It will work with a PT&G single set reamer stop or the Lambeth/Kiff Micrometer Adjustable Reamer stop. Either method will give you definitive stops for throating.
Nat Lambeth
 
Rustystud said:
I talked with Dave Kiff this morning. He is going to make some 1.* guide bushings for Remington and Savage actions that will act as a rear guide for the PT&G Uni-throater, and have them in stock. It will work with a PT&G single set reamer stop or the Lambeth/Kiff Micrometer Adjustable Reamer stop. Either method will give you definitive stops for throating.
Nat Lambeth


Cool.

I will need them for throating out my chamber.

Can be done the process without remove barrel from Action?
 
I'm new here and new to the topic, and mine isn't a .308. I’ve never reamed a throat in any of my rifles or lever guns but I don’t find a lot of introductions to the topic - so hope this is a good place to ask a couple questions.

You probably guessed correctly this would not be on a lath.

I’ve done a boat-load of reading and I’ve been to the PTG site and even seen the shot show announcement on their spiral fluted throat reamers.

I’ve asked a couple questions at PT&G too and think I’m settled on a Uni-Throater but I don’t understand the ‘stops’. My first run at this will be a vintage Marlin 1893 32-20 that has been relined and chamber is to specs, meaning the throat is abrupt.

If I understand Dave correctly, I can get a Uni-throater in a spiral or straight flute. Drawback of the spiral is not having as good a feel. So it’s a straight flute or a ‘stop’. But the stops for which I’ve seen images are too large for clearance in a Marlin receiver.

1. So, are the bushings that come with the Uni-Throater able to provide the stop function with as little clearance as exists in the area you have to work with?
2. Do they set outside the chamber and stop on the case rim neck?
3. Or do they set-screw in “inside” the chamber mouth and only give lateral control?

Rusty, I’m assuming that same bushing is what you refer to when you say he’s adding a bushing for the Savage. So I guess you could sum this up as “rear guide or rear stop”. Seems like for a rimed cartridge you could do a stop and guide all in one bushing. But then again I’m apt to be visualizing this completely wrong.

Any help in understanding would be appreciated… or any links for a better visual would help.

Thanks,
John
 
I can tell you about the uni-throater as I have one and have used it on three of my rifles. I will explain it to you the best I can. The top portion of the reamer is threaded, with two nuts on it, these two nuts are behind the steel slide and act as a stop for the slide. the steel slide goes over the reamer itself, when the reamer goes into the chamber the slide stops on the shoulder of the chamber. Adjusting the two nuts behind the steel determines how deep the reamer will go.

The bushings that you need for this reamer are the bushings that go in the bore of the rifle itself to guide the reamer and center it the best as possible. Just to give you a heads up in case you are going to order them.These bushings come in increments of .0002. Every bore is not the same. The bore on 308 is a nominal .3000 and I believe its .2980 for Palma barrels.My point is, for your 308 assuming it's not a Palma/tight barrel could range from .2996 to .3008. It could be smaller or larger than these figures.
 

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