Thoughts on Redding Standard dies

[jimbo88mm]

My experience thus far has been with Lee dies.

I will be adding a .260 to my collection so I need new dies. Lees options for the 260 are a little limited and are not much cheaper then RCBS or standard redding.'

I'd like to get the most precision possible from a factory tube.. so I'm thinking $200 competition die sets are overkill.

I'm looking at either the 3 die set for ~$60 or get the 2 die set (FL/Seater) now for ~$36 and pick up either the standard neck die later or maybe even spring for the type s bushing nect sizer for ~$53.

Is this a proper step up from Lee or are there other options out there?

Thanks

 

[K22]

You didn't state your shooting purpose, (i.e benchrest, hunting, etc.) but I have and so can you produce very accurate reloads with either the RCBS or Redding Standard two die set. Let me define "very accurate" as in the 1/2 moa range. That's obviously not benchrest quality but very acceptable for long range precise shooting in a hunting situation.

Also, I don't use a neck sizing die anymore. I full length size bumping the shoulder back .002". I found that I get less round out and more accurate loads using this method without any noticable loss of case life.

 

[jimbo88mm]

The purpose is informal target shooting. Consistent 1/2 moa groups is exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[BoydAllen]

If you don't mind a two step sizing process...
Use a Lee collet die to neck size, a Redding body die to body size and bump shoulders a measured amount, and then seat with a Forster Bench Rest Seater. You should have very straight and consistent ammunition. Dies don't have to be used in matching sets. Lee makes the best neck die for unturned necks in a factory chamber, but they don't make a body die, and I don't like their seater. I think that you will get more consistent results sizing the body and bumping the shoulder a measured amount every time you load, and of the more affordable seaters the Forster is the best, unless you want to buy an arbor press and use a Wilson.

 

[necchi]

Their nice dies ;D

I've been using RCBS with good luck, I personally found the RCBS to be easier than the Lee's, must have had a bad set for my 308 from lee,, Don't get me wrong lot's of guy's use Lee faithfully.
Anyways, a local shop had a clearance with a great price on a 2-die Redding set for a buddy's 223WSSM,, defenatly sweet, smooth, straight dies. I'd say they're a set up from RCBS and RCBS is a step up from Lees,
So if your going from Lee's too Redding you'll be VERY happy, If I had the extra jing I'd make the move for more Redding dies.

Others milage may very,

p.s. As Boyd said, I don't like the Lee seater, I just can get a handle on that floaty thing in there, consentricity suffered,, :-\

 

[bozo699]

If you don't mind a two step sizing process...
Use a Lee collet die to neck size, a Redding body die to body size and bump shoulders a measured amount, and then seat with a Forster Bench Rest Seater. You should have very straight and consistent ammunition. Dies don't have to be used in matching sets. Lee makes the best neck die for unturned necks in a factory chamber, but they don't make a body die, and I don't like their seater. I think that you will get more consistent results sizing the body and bumping the shoulder a measured amount every time you load, and of the more affordable seaters the Forster is the best, unless you want to buy an arbor press and use a Wilson.

I absolutely agree 100%
Wayne.

 

[KevinThomas]

Quick addition to what Boyd said in regards to brand; don't get too hung up on it. No one maker makes the best of everything. Seems like they all turn out lemons from time to time, and each of them finds the occasional acorn. Limit yourself to just one brand (any of them) and you're going to miss out on some good stuff.
Not much of a Lee fan myself, but I'll be the first to admit that they do some things (like their factory crimp dies) better than any other maker on the market. Take the time to look at individual pieces of equipment, regardless of brand, and make your choices based on what you see for yourself.

 

[bozo699]

Quick addition to what Boyd said in regards to brand; don't get too hung up on it. No one maker makes the best of everything. Seems like they all turn out lemons from time to time, and each of them finds the occasional acorn. Limit yourself to just one brand (any of them) and you're going to miss out on some good stuff.
Not much of a Lee fan myself, but I'll be the first to admit that they do some things (like their factory crimp dies) better than any other maker on the market. Take the time to look at individual pieces of equipment, regardless of brand, and make your choices based on what you see for yourself.

Kevin,
That was a very sensible and unbiased response, you and Boyd must have came from the same neighborhood at any rate I agree with you. I have a large selection of dies, mostly Redding and Wilson but I have many more of all different brands and lately I am really liking what I see in Forster dies, they produce very concentric ammo.
Wayne.

 

[alf]

For most applications, I'll buy Redding's three die deluxe set, which include a neck, full length, and seater dies. If you load in the upper limits, the full length die gets most of the duty, but the neck die comes in handy for more times than not, to warrant having one.

When I shot the 1000 yard stock class, most all my ammo was loaded with plain 'ol RCBS or Redding two die sets. Don't sell them short......

Also, I have found a lot of my inconsistency was eliminated by annealing after every firing as well.

 

[BoydAllen]

When a friend decides that he wants to make better ammo, and is loading for a factory rifle, using unturned necks, with a standard, one piece FL die that has an expander ball, I lend him one of my concentricity gauges for a couple of weeks, so that he can learn that he can't get there using his usual die. I know that this may seem a bit mean, but it has been my experience that simply telling an adult that he needs to change something that he has been doing for a long time, and spend a little money, often, does not work. He has to learn that he has a problem before making the change, and without the use of the gauge, the difference cannot be seen. Everything else being equal, in an accurate rifle, straighter ammunition shoots better. BTW, one thing that you will learn, with a concentricity gauge is that one piece neck dies are to be avoided.

 

[alf]

I've had a Neco concentricity gauge since they first came out, and spin every competition round that goes down range.

My previous last sentence still applies.......

 

[BoydAllen]

Alf,
Were you turning necks?

 

[alf]

Alf,Were you turning necks?

Yes, which is just another one of the pieces to the accuracy puzzle.........

 

[bozo699]

Alf,Were you turning necks?

Yes, which is just another one of the pieces to the accuracy puzzle.........

Alf,
I would imagine that is why you were getting satisfactory results, you thinned up the necks a little which helps with concentricity plus the thinner necks made the expander ball pull through easier which in turn produced lower run out. By reading the op I assume he will not be neck turning doesn't say but I will assume he is not turning so his cheapest and best bet for concentric rounds is the collet die in conjunction with the body die, maybe $40 invested. My next choice would be to buy a factory box of ammo, shoot some of it in the new rifle, measure the necks, decide what you want for neck tension and call Forster and have them custom hone a F/L die, still very affordable and there very good dies IMHO.
Wayne.

 

[alf]

But.....in a quote from the OP.......

I'd like to get the most precision possible from a factory tube.

I understand what's being said, but magic dies do not fix shitty brass....

 

[jimbo88mm]

Good feedback everyone, thank you.

I think at least for now I'll pick up the redding 2 die set (FL/Seater) and see how things go. I'm just using Remington brass so I don't have too much invested (btw.. Crenshaw is selling 50ct rem 260 brass for $23 plus $1 shipping).

Unfortunately Lee doesn't sell the neck die for the 260 by itself, you have to buy it in a set with the seater. Their 260 2 die set costs about the same as the redding (hence my interest in trying out a different brand).

At this point I am not turning my necks nor do I own a concentricity gage.. it's on the list when funds allow so some day down the road I'll raise my reloading to the next level.

 

[bozo699]

Jimbo,
I really think if that is the route your going to take you would be much happier with the Forster two die set but either way you will get your ammo loaded and you will probably be very happy with it, and I think you have good future goals, best of luck to you sir and I enjoyed your thread, please let us know how things went
Wayne.

 

[Shynloco]

jimbo88mm,
As probably the least experience reloader amongst those who've posted comments and I know those guys all know their reloading, I use mostly Redding and Wilson dies for my reloading. And I notice that most comments posted here advocate "bumping" shoulders a minimal amount and some mention using a Body Die. Perhaps I'm missing something in their comments and I know several folks advocate using a Full length sizing dies each time they reload, but I use the Body Die method using Redding Competition Shell Holders that give me that least needed or minimal bump to reset my shoulders when necessary. So would someone clue how you'd use a Body Die by itself to bump shoulders? Thx guys!

Alex

 

[bozo699]

Alex,
The body die does everything a full length die does except it doesn't touch the neck, it sizes the body and will bump the shoulder if set to then you can size the neck as you wish with a neck die.
Wayne.

 

[Shynloco]

Good Morning Wayne,
Thx for the response. But to clarify, is there anything different in the method I use when I use the Redding Shell Holders for that "measured" bump. In other words, depending on the caliber, I use the appropriate Body Die. I have it set in my Press to where the Casing shoulders are at it's best for performance. I measure each and every fired casing to check for any changes using an RCBS Precision Mic. If I get as much as a .001 change from the "Index" marking I obtained from when the brass was new and checked/set for least resistance when the bolt is closed, I then use whichever of the measured Redding Shell holder will give me that minimal "bump" so as to least "work" the brass. I next use my Neck Sizing Die to continue the reloading process. From what I see in the method I use, I never have to reset my Body Die to obtain what I've found is the best casing shoulder setting for each of my rifles. Do you see anything that I should be doing differently that would help in what I consider precision reloading for ultimate accuracy? Thx.

Alex