thoughts on a new target varmint rifle

[RabbitSlayer]

I sure do want a LRPV with the left port, but you are right that it is expensive and hard to justify. I also wonder how many stocks are out there for it. its my understanding it has a 3rd action screw. The stock it comes with just does not do it for me...

Certainly can't go wrong with a tikka. I like to reset after the shot and get it roughly back on target while its 100% safe with bolt open. I know this may sound silly, but I find it annoying when I close the bolt and the required forward force slightly moves the gun that I have just reset to be back on target. Now I close the bolt and have to start over. The tikka is so so dang smooth that this annoyance is eliminated even with the t3 lite.

 

[ranger3]

Watch this site, sometimes a good deal comes through on a LRPV or buy the action and take off stock from Northand shooters and a barrel. I have the Tikka Varmint, they are exceptional. I have rebarreled three Savages with Criterion Barrels, all shoot amazingly well.

 

[Webster]

after many years of varmint and target shooting, mainly shot all Savages, so i am looking for another new 223 heavy varmint rifle, i like the new Savage LRPV rifles but they seemed to have priced them selves out of my range, so looking for some input of shooters who own or have shot the new gen 2 Remington 5R or the Remington PSS

thanks
chet

I have a new Rem 700 ADL Varmint model. The tupper ware stock is terrible. Very little bedding area. Looks like a nighmare to glass bed. The stock touches the barrel for the entire length. Didn't want to spend $700 more to get a wood stock. Put a Kreiger 6BRX barrel on it. It shoots a little under .500" before working on the stock. I won't be able to test it with stock mods till next year. I'll try to post a pic of the stock interior later.


Egg crate design. No more than1.5 sq. inches of surface to put epoxy on. Difficult to fill the holes in front of the receiver since you need a curved surface.

 

[rjtfroggy]

I sure do want a LRPV with the left port, but you are right that it is expensive and hard to justify. I also wonder how many stocks are out there for it. its my understanding it has a 3rd action screw. The stock it comes with just does not do it for me...

Just eliminate the 3rd ( middle) screw really not needed for accuracy. Then find a stock that you like and have at it.

 

[Webster]

Don't overlook the 700 Varmint ADL.....available on sale at times under $400.

1. Replace the trigger with your preference.
2. Replace the included scope with your preference.
3. Fill the voids in the forearm with epoxy/shot or epoxy/micro-balloon mixture depending on your weight preference to stiffen the forearm. You can also fill the buttstock with shot alone to end up with a 17 pound rifle.
4. Bed the action in Devcon or Marine-tex free floating the barrel with plenty of clearance. No need to add pillars, the stock is plenty strong to withstand compression

My experience is you should end up with a consistent .500-.750 rifle with the factory barrel and lug......maybe a shade better with a good load. Not good by BR standards but definitely good enough for the PD wars.

I'd also re-barrel the Savage and change calibers to a 20VT.....it would probably become your favorite.

I have a 700 ADL Varmint. How do you fill the large opening with epoxy in front of the tang? The surface needs to be curved to fit the shape of the barrel. See my photo 2 replies above,

 

[ricco1949]

I have a 700 ADL Varmint. How do you fill the large opening with epoxy in front of the tang? The surface needs to be curved to fit the shape of the barrel. See my photo 2 replies above,

Webster:

1. I just filled the voids in the forearm level to the bottom of the slots on the side of the forearm.....there is no need to conform to barrel curve......it doesn't show. I mixed lead shot with Accraglass and colored it black only for aesthetics. The mixture levels nicely if you don't put too much shot in each void.
2. I machined an aluminum plug to glue into the magazine well to convert to single shot.
3. I glued in an aluminum plate on each side of the trigger well as further stiffeners but I think that was overkill.
4. Devcon or Marinetex bedding covers top of 2 & 3.
5. I added loose lead shot packed tightly into the butt-stock to come up in weight. At about 17 total weight with scope it's out of balance but still shoots well. It should have steel shot in butt-stock for better balance.
6. Barrels are free floated during bedding with plenty of clearance on bottom.

The forearm shot and Accraglass mixture and single shot plug stiffened the stock substantially..........not like a good laminate but good enough for a PD colony rifle.

I've done two of these. One I kept OEM 223 barrel on and the other I rebarreled to 20 VT.

Hope this helps.........Rick.

 

[Webster]

Webster:

1. I just filled the voids in the forearm level to the bottom of the slots on the side of the forearm.....there is no need to conform to barrel curve......it doesn't show. I mixed lead shot with Accraglass and colored it black only for aesthetics. The mixture levels nicely if you don't put too much shot in each void.
2. I machined an aluminum plug to glue into the magazine well to convert to single shot.
3. I glued in an aluminum plate on each side of the trigger well as further stiffeners but I think that was overkill.
4. Devcon or Marinetex bedding covers top of 2 & 3.
5. I added loose lead shot packed tightly into the butt-stock to come up in weight. At about 17 total weight with scope it's out of balance but still shoots well. It should have steel shot in butt-stock for better balance.
6. Barrels are free floated during bedding with plenty of clearance on bottom.

The forearm shot and Accraglass mixture and single shot plug stiffened the stock substantially..........not like a good laminate but good enough for a PD colony rifle.

I've done two of these. One I kept OEM 223 barrel on and the other I rebarreled to 20 VT.

Hope this helps.........Rick.

Sounds like your saying no glass bedding under the barrel forward of the tang. Traditionally this area is bedded under the barrel for about an inch. You filled the holes level only to make the stock stiffer?

 

[ricco1949]

Sounds like your saying no glass bedding under the barrel forward of the tang. Traditionally this area is bedded under the barrel for about an inch. You filled the holes level only to make the stock stiffer?

Webster:

I don't put a pad under the barrel in front of the lug..........but you could as it would be on top of the shot/glass mixture in front of the lug.

If you put a pad in front of the lug, when you switch barrels, there may be a few .0001's difference in diameter of the barrels on the straight section. You can remove the top layer of the pad and re-bed that portion to accommodate this but I feel it is better to leave the barrel free float the entire length.

Yes, I filled the forearm voids to stiffen the forearm.........it makes a big difference. I also added shot for weight but micro balloons could be used instead of shot or just Accra-glass alone to hold the weight down if desired.

If you try this modification rough up all voids you are going to fill with a file or Dremel and clean with a good non-petroleum based solvent like lacquer thinner for adhesion.

Rick

 

[tstowater]

I have a Savage in a Model 12 in a 204R. Not sure of the round count as I bought it used. Without question, it is going to get a new barrel when this one gives up the ghost. I probably will stay with a 204R using 40 grainers due to the sheer amount of brass I have in inventory or consider going to a 20 Practical.

Rebarrel one of the Savages if you have one available for that purpose.

 

[Webster]

Webster:

I don't put a pad under the barrel in front of the lug..........but you could as it would be on top of the shot/glass mixture in front of the lug.

If you put a pad in front of the lug, when you switch barrels, there may be a few .0001's difference in diameter of the barrels on the straight section. You can remove the top layer of the pad and re-bed that portion to accommodate this but I feel it is better to leave the barrel free float the entire length.

Yes, I filled the forearm voids to stiffen the forearm.........it makes a big difference. I also added shot for weight but micro balloons could be used instead of shot or just Accra-glass alone to hold the weight down if desired.

If you try this modification rough up all voids you are going to fill with a file or Dremel and clean with a good non-petroleum based solvent like lacquer thinner for adhesion.

Rick

Thanks for the info.

 

[Ironworker]

ah yes the 700P ....http://www.remingtonle.com/rifles/700p.htm looks interesting.
a separate website from their usual stuff

Well are the Police special better than the average Rem 700 ?

 

[Lone Hunter]

Well are the Police special better than the average Rem 700 ?

I believe the stock is. The action and barrel are probably the same. The PSS I had shot pretty darn good..

 

[Robby]

I believe the stock is. The action and barrel are probably the same. The PSS I had shot pretty darn good..

I still have my 700 PSS that I bought 25 years ago. At that time they used a 24" barrel, not 26. Why they went to 26" I'll never understand. Basically, it's the same action and barrel except for being finished in matt black, but came with an excellent HS-Precision stock. Several years later I ordered a "Tactical Model" from HS-Precision for my 700 BDL Varmint Special in .222, and while in the same profile as the original PSS, fos und it to be slightly scaled down in size. Personally, I feel they are a worthwhile investment and did help accuracy quite a bit. Installed 2 oz. Jewell triggers in both and still find my .222 to be slightly more accurate at 100 and 200 yards.