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Things I learned with my new Lyman Borecam today.

1. My cleaning regimen needed work.
2. Hoppes #9 is better than Butch's Bore Shine for powder/carbon. A brass brush helps a bunch.
3. Kroil doesn't do crap as far as cleaning bores.
4. Butch's will eventually clean copper out but it helps to use a nylon brush.
5. If you don't use a brush to clean your barrel, it probably isn't clean.
6. It's apparent that Savage OE barrels aren't finished or machined to anywhere near the standard of Shilen, Lilja or Douglas barrels. You get what you pay for.
7. The borecam is well worth the $200 I paid for it.
 
1. My cleaning regimen needed work.
2. Hoppes #9 is better than Butch's Bore Shine for powder/carbon. A brass brush helps a bunch.
3. Kroil doesn't do crap as far as cleaning bores.
4. Butch's will eventually clean copper out but it helps to use a nylon brush.
5. If you don't use a brush to clean your barrel, it probably isn't clean.
6. It's apparent that Savage OE barrels aren't finished or machined to anywhere near the standard of Shilen, Lilja or Douglas barrels. You get what you pay for.
7. The borecam is well worth the $200 I paid for it.
How long is the rod that has the camera on the end ?
 
I've also found you can purchase some really good shooting rifles, really cheap, after a person looks at their barrels with one. Brian.
 
In regards to #6.....don't get me wrong, I never had much use for a "cost effective" cheap, cheesy gun...but there really was a time when Savage OEM barrels were just about the best factory barrel out there. You could scope a rifle from back in the late 80's early 90's and see what looked like the best custom today. They might not all have been that way back then, but every one I looked at was.
You will eventually come to the conclusion that JB Bore cleaner is the one that works the fastest. Is there any way you can post a picture of a bore taken with your borescope?????
 
On powder fouling....back in the day when we were cleaning factory barrels and shooting dirtier powders, we cleaned powder fouling first, and then switched to something that would work on jacket fouling. Without a bore scope we were doing a lot of guessing, but one thing that we were pretty of was that if you mixed some Kroil with Hoppe's #9 it worked better than either one by itself. The proportion is not critical. You can experiment, but 25% Kroil should get you started. For factory barrels, using some JB bore cleaner every couple of hundred rounds is a good idea. I put enough gun oil on a patch to "wet" it, and then work the JB into it with my thumb and finger. Then I put it on my jag, and short stroke it up and down the barrel several times before pushing it out of the muzzle. I have a lot more options. One is to use Patch Out and Accelerator, first wetting the bore, and then using a wet nylon brush to slowly cycle up and down the barrel, its full length, for a number of strokes, perhaps 20, adding more to the brush at the half way point. Then I let it sit for a few minutes. Patch it out, and dry the chamber. I like to finish with a solvent based product, so I will short stroke a couple of patches of Butche's, let it sit for a bit, and then run a couple more. The last one should not have a blue tint. If all is well, I dry the bore and chamber, wipe off the muzzle,lube the lugs and cocking cam, and call it good. When I am brushing with any solvent except the Patch Out combination I use a bronze brush, taking care as it comes out of the muzzle so that the brush only extends past by its length, before carefully pulling it back into the barrel. When I mount a brush, I turn the rod and bend the brush until it is straight with the rod. I am not one to take brushes off at the muzzle when cleaning, and at all of the short range benchrest matches that I have attended, I have never seen this done. I do think that regardless of your cleaning method, that if you are doing serious competition work that recrowning every so often is a good idea.
 
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I agree with everything Boyd has to say, as I usually do. There is a reason that products like Kroil, Hoppes, JB etc. are still around today. If they didn't work as well or better than all the new products, they wouldn't be on the market today. They have stood the test of not only time but also all the OCD shooters like us as well!;)
That being said, I'm a sling shooter, not BR but all the fundamentals still apply, small is still small relative to our performance in our chosen discipline.
I'm using a OLD Hawk-eye borescope that looked through hundreds of barrels before the Lyman was even thought of. The evidence viewed is confirmation of what a lot of us have thought that for years.
1. Sometimes we don't know what we are looking at at first.
2. We come to realize that perfectly clean isn't always better.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd
 
the brush thing: if you think a brush isn't doing anything to your barrel interior, just push/pull it across the exterior of your barrel with a little force about as many times as you would run it thru the interior.
:confused:
Rich
 
the brush thing: if you think a brush isn't doing anything to your barrel interior, just push/pull it across the exterior of your barrel with a little force about as many times as you would run it thru the interior.
:confused:
Rich
Take a brass brush and rub it on a barrel aggressive for a day Show me How much it is woren . The problem is the carbon that will wear a bore . Harch cleaners not only remove carbon they etch steel . So that is the same a chemical removeing steel .
I will continue brushing and you do it your way and we both are happy . Larry
 
In the accuracy game, barrels are consumables. The fellows that I know that are in the Benchrest Hall of Fame, and who own records, pretty much all brush with bronze brushes, and pull them back through from the muzzle, rather than take them off. I have the use of a good bore scope. When you run a brush back and forth on the outside of a barrel, the contact is likely to be more severe than when it is in the bore, with its core centered by the bristles and lubricated with solvent. If you think bronze brushes are rough, you would really freak out about the grit that barrel makers finish with. One of the best ways that I know of to create a jacket fouling problem in a quality barrel is to lap it to an excessively smooth finish. It should be of uniform and correct dimension, and not too smooth.
 
1. My cleaning regimen needed work.
2. Hoppes #9 is better than Butch's Bore Shine for powder/carbon. A brass brush helps a bunch.
3. Kroil doesn't do crap as far as cleaning bores.
4. Butch's will eventually clean copper out but it helps to use a nylon brush.
5. If you don't use a brush to clean your barrel, it probably isn't clean.
6. It's apparent that Savage OE barrels aren't finished or machined to anywhere near the standard of Shilen, Lilja or Douglas barrels. You get what you pay for.
7. The borecam is well worth the $200 I paid for it.
I pretty much came to the same conclusions when I got bore cam. I still dont use a brush as much as I should and I still like Kroil.
 
I never really have a problem with copper fouling. When i do im usually getting close to getting rid of the barrel because its not shooting well.

Powder is usually what causes me the most problems. Iosso and the borecam make it an easy fix.
 

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