The right way to clean a gun...

[Dave Armento]

I purchased a Cooper 22-.250 for shooting, and I want to ask everyone what is the "right" way to clean a gun. I have cleaned a lot of guns in my life, but it was always just a Sears gun cleaning kit or something from Bass Pro Shop. I am guessing that precision shooters don't just ram the rod down the front end of the barrel like the old days. Can anyone tell me the right equipment for me to get, and the proper technique? I don't want to hurt the accuracy of the gun while cleaning it. Thanks

 

[CaptainMal]

You need a quality one-piece rod - long one -and a bore guide. Without those two, don't start.

Then a collection of proper PLASTIC brush, patches and quality solvent. The solvent needs to be of a kind or kinds that will not leave ammonia in the barrel if copper cleaning and something for the carbon that builds. I recommend three solvents - Kroil for a final - NEAR DRY application to protect from rusting nd to counter any ammonia, Barnes C10 fore any copper and Bore Tech C-4 for carbon and normal fouling.

As for the chemicals, there are many and many are good. Arguments will begin as soon as I finish but they are more ideas than disagreements. Many chemicals work. These there seem to cover it for me.

ALWAYS start into the bore guide from the action. A few wet patches, some swipes with the PLASTIC brush and then dry. Now you look. I have a borescope but good eyes work, not well but they do work.

Got copper near the muzzle? C10 followed by Kroil.

What I just said works. You can vary all you want. This works.

 

[madmixerman]

I use Butches bore shine using a one piece rod.I also use a bronze brush if needed.Finish up by swabbing the bore with Hoppes. Iosso used after one to two hundred rounds.

 

[LHSmith]

One piece .22 cal. rod (not carbon fiber), bore guide specific to your Cooper action, .22 cal. brass jag -piercing style, quality bronze brush (Pro-Shot, or Sinclair), 1-1/4 " round cotton patches (sized just right to your .22 cal. bore), Hoppes or Butches Bore Shine, squeeze solvent bottle (Sinclair) to dispense solvent. Wet patch w/KG-1 carbon solvent while barrel is still warm. Follow with Hoppes or Butches. Non-Telfon oil to coat bore after cleaning- dry patch out just before shooting. Orient your cleaning stand with the muzzle down to help prevent stuff going in your trigger. Use a chamber swab when done to keep chamber clean.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ill echo what mr smith said. 2 rods, a bore guide with inserts a brush cant fit thru, bronze brushes, pro shot patches, butches solvent, ivy rods, iosso, jb, flitz, and a borescope.

 

[Immike]

Do all the above but keep it moving. Kill the solvents with oil when finished. Some of this stuff eats whatever is in it's way.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I use carb cleaner to dry it out then lock eeze from napa very lightly. Small dot on the patch

 

[1shot]

+1 to Captain Mal's post. I use the same procedure but the ingredients are different. Butch's to start, dry with a couple of patches. Scope it to see any problem areas. Mild fouling gets another dose of Butch's on a patch wrapped around a nylon brush. Extreme copper, gets a dose of Montana Extreme. DO NOT leave this in the bore for more than 5-10 min. Punch the bore dry and follow with Kroil to neutralize any remaining solvent. This a regimen that I use and the bore scope tells the truth.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

 

[LCazador]

Suggest use of a one piece rod and bore guide to fit your rifle. Orient your cleaning set up so the barrel end is pointing down. Use a bronze core phosphor bronze brush and Butch's Bore Shine. First apply two patches of Sweets and let soak for ten minutes. Sweets has surfactants and acts as a lubricant for your brush and accelerates the copper removal process. Soak a brush with the Bore Shine, and stroke two times for every shot fired using the phosphor bronze brush. Next use a slightly larger brush, 6mm for a 22, and soak the end of the brush with Bore shine, and twirl or spin the brush to remove the chamber carbon ring just ahead of the case mouth end. Finally dry patch the bore and chamber with several patches and run one final patch with Kroil or Butch's gun oil. When done clean your brush and bore guide with Brake Kleen or something similar, otherwise you'll just be accumulating junk which will transfer to the next cleaning. This process was documented with a bore scope as one of the fastest and best cleaning methods to remove copper and powder residue, with no damage to the bore.

 

[Mozella]

There is only ONE correct way to clean a gun. Just ask any shooter, either a target fanatic, or a hunter.

 

[Dave Armento]

Suggest use of a one piece rod and bore guide to fit your rifle. Orient your cleaning set up so the barrel end is pointing down. Use a bronze core phosphor bronze brush and Butch's Bore Shine. First apply two patches of Sweets and let soak for ten minutes. Sweets has surfactants and acts as a lubricant for your brush and accelerates the copper removal process. Soak a brush with the Bore Shine, and stroke two times for every shot fired using the phosphor bronze brush. Next use a slightly larger brush, 6mm for a 22, and soak the end of the brush with Bore shine, and twirl or spin the brush to remove the chamber carbon ring just ahead of the case mouth end. Finally dry patch the bore and chamber with several patches and run one final patch with Kroil or Butch's gun oil. When done clean your brush and bore guide with Brake Kleen or something similar, otherwise you'll just be accumulating junk which will transfer to the next cleaning. This process was documented with a bore scope as one of the fastest and best cleaning methods to remove copper and powder residue, with no damage to the bore.

Thanks for the clear and concise advice. I appreciate it a lot. I have a couple follow up questions if you have the time to tell me.... 1. Do you dry patch the gun before using it so as to remove the Kroil? 2. Do you clean your gun while using it at the range? 3. Do you clean it at the range right after using it, or is it OK to take home to clean it? 4. Do you think I need to get a bore scope, or is eyesight OK for inspecting the bore. Thanks for all your help!!!!

 

[Terry Altom]

I think the optimum strategy is to start a thread on the best way to clean a target rifle. Let that run for two weeks. Copy that down and capture all of the solvents and methods mentioned. Rank solvents, methods, and tools by number of hits from the thread and voila! there you have your answer.

Personally, I've been using KG1, KG12, and KG4 myself.

 

[FryeGuy]

Dave, there are several good posts already on cleaning. the sweets and some of the others will turn your patch blue if there is still copper in it. beware after using a bronze brush there will be lots of blue the first couple of patches after brushing. a lot of that is left from the brush, which is why some guys use the plastic brushes, you don't get a false read of blue. I personally don't have a borescope. I currently don't plan on getting one either. after you think it's clean, you can shine a flashlight at the end of muzzle. If there is still copper there, it will look like a brand new penny along the rifling or flats. I like to clean my rifles till the patches aren't blue, and you cannot see the copper with a light method. I figure at this point it's all good.

 

[LCazador]

Thanks for the clear and concise advice. I appreciate it a lot. I have a couple follow up questions if you have the time to tell me.... 1. Do you dry patch the gun before using it so as to remove the Kroil? 2. Do you clean your gun while using it at the range? 3. Do you clean it at the range right after using it, or is it OK to take home to clean it? 4. Do you think I need to get a bore scope, or is eyesight OK for inspecting the bore. Thanks for all your help!!!!

Yes you should dry patch before you shoot, but it won't hurt if you don't. I clean at the range every 20 shots and immediately after shooting while the barrel is still hot. Cleaning while the barrel is hot, accelerates the cleaning process. A bore scope is essential if you're a competitor and in my opinion is the only way to learn how to clean properly. I bought my scope back in 1995 and paid $400 for it. After all I've learned and taught with it, I could sell it today for about the same amount of money. Money well spent and money in the bank! Plastic brushes can do as good a job as a bronze brush but it will take 4 times as many passes to accomplish the same removal of fouling. In my opinion when it takes so many passes to clean most folks will quit before it's clean. With a bore scope I've learned that most factory barrels will take a lot more work to clean than a custom.

 

[FryeGuy]

LCazador, you are 100% correct about the borescope. I just don't compete, which I should have stated. I just don't feel I need one as expensive as they are. If I could find a cheaper one I probably would get one. I do miss my friends with borescopes where I used to live!! They do help and will teach you a lot. I do still shoot for accuracy, but gave up competing when we moved and then kids came along a couple years ago. I will 100% agree about the custom barrels v/s factory tubes cleaning too. I have a couple of Remington rifles I don't shoot because they take forever to clean. The cooper shouldn't be that bad thou, at least I hope not. God help Dave's arm if it is!

 

[Cold Bore]

There is only ONE correct way to clean a gun. Just ask any shooter, either a target fanatic, or a hunter.

Solid answer.

Until you ask a second shooter....

 

[Lapua40X]

This thread will open a can of worms guaranteed to provide you with as many "correct" ways to clean a rifle barrel as there are shooters.
I'd suggest you get started here:

IMO it's a good basic tutorial.
From there you're on your own.
Good luck ..................

 

[jj789]

ok the items have been covered but not in order nor well imho.
you need to remove carbon first, pick your carbon chem and do a couple of patches, then one dry.
next up is copper, again pick your poison. if you pick an ammonia based cleaner, skip copper brushes,
use patches, mops or fibre/plastic brushes. read the instructions.
( if not ammonia, scrub with copper brush asnd solvent, then a wet patch then a clean patch several mins later)
do this till no grean blue...none..not just a little.
at this point I recommend hopes number 9 to check how clean it is. wet patch thru the bore then come back
in 15 mins and do a dry clean patch...see green keep cleaning.
when you are done most like a light coat of oil in the bore

 

[dragman]

Wait, your supposed to clean your guns??????

 

[Dave Armento]

ok the items have been covered but not in order nor well imho.
you need to remove carbon first, pick your carbon chem and do a couple of patches, then one dry.
next up is copper, again pick your poison. if you pick an ammonia based cleaner, skip copper brushes,
use patches, mops or fibre/plastic brushes. read the instructions.
( if not ammonia, scrub with copper brush asnd solvent, then a wet patch then a clean patch several mins later)
do this till no grean blue...none..not just a little.
at this point I recommend hopes number 9 to check how clean it is. wet patch thru the bore then come back
in 15 mins and do a dry clean patch...see green keep cleaning.
when you are done most like a light coat of oil in the bore

This is excellent advice. Thanks for putting it in order. One follow up question for you..... I have copper brushes and not plastic brushes. What is the best copper removing solvent to go with my copper brushes? Thanks again for your help...