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The Problem with "Pet Loads"

Often on shooting sites, I see members asking for pet loads used by other members. The problem I see with this is that in my experience, no two rifles respond the same to any particular powder load, bullet weight, seating depth, etc. I have owned two different rifles in .222 Remington. Each eventually had its own "best loads." I see this as similar to the way individual rimfire rifles will show a preference for a specific brand of ammunition.

To avoid any safety issues, I simply start with the recommended loads in my Lyman Reloading Handbook. Then I bump up and down in .1 gr. increments looking for the sweet spot for that rifle. It helps that I have an RCBS Chargemaster an Arbor Press and hand dies that I can set up at the range, while I do load testing.

It was with this setup that I found 22.2 gr. of H322 with a 52 gr. Bart's bullet as best with my 222 Rem. BAT action rifle, while my Ruger No. 1V in 222 shoots best with 24.0 gr. of 748 and a 55 gr. Berger FB.

So, I can see pet loads as a starting point but I can get safe starting points and safe load parameters from my manual or many other similarly reliable and trustworthy sources. I would trust my manual over any shooter's unique experience.
 
Historically, there have been certain loads that were known to shoot well across a range of different rifles. Along the same line, certain types of commercial ammunition such as Federal Gold Medal Match have a track record of shooting quite well in a variety of different rifles.

Nonetheless, I am in agreement with you in that the notion of using someone else's optimized load is not something I'm interested in doing. Honestly, I don't even see it as being really useful for a starting point because most optimized loads are typically going to be somewhere further up toward the middle or top of the usable charge weight range. Anyone that jumps straight to that point could be asking for trouble in terms of pressure in their specific rifle setup, nor would there be any guarantee that the "pet" load would shoot well in their rifle. Most commonly, we have no way of knowing what the freebore length of someone else's rifle chamber is and that can have a huge effect on pressure/velocity and precision. A typical load development process for a specific rifle setup that includes (at a minimum) determination of charge weight and seating depth optima is not really all that difficult to do, then you know with certainty that the load has been optimized.
 
It depends on the similarity between the rifle systems. I come from a service rifle background where everyone was shooting a heavy 20" stainless free floated barrel in a 17 pound AR and if a load worked in one, it would likely work in others with the same configuration. Same with the old model 70/ model 700 pencil barrel hunting rifles. Similar systems with similar chambers get similar good results.

Additionally, Dan Newberry mentioned in a podcast the he actually sees Optimal Pressure bands as what may drive accuracy and precision in reloading. Certain loads produce good results in a very stable pressure band across many rifles.

All that said, in the words of Ron Reagan, Trust... but verify.
 
Agree with the caution-verify above. I feel it's good to reference specific loads from other rifle/load combinations but bottom line is start low, work up, watch for pressure, etc. and don't expect a given rifle to perform the same with other developed loads. If one is able to follow a load developed in another rifle no matter how close it is followed there is always something different.
 
Yes, for both safety and accuracy you should develop your own loads.

But, there are many loads out there that work in a ton of rifles….. like 38 grains of H380 in a 22-250, 37.5 of Varget in a 6.5X47 or 24 grains of Varget in a 223. (I didn’t list bullet weights for liability, but most would know.)

In the end though, borrowing your buddy’s load is poor practice. Not only is it unsafe, but you won’t learn a damn thing from it either.
 
I got my "pet load" out of my 1967 Hornady Handbook. I had a Rem. 722 222 and their test rifle was a 722 so how could I go wrong? My first 5 shot group made one jagged hole. This was from a 100 measured yards from a rest at a friends ranch. The only modifications were a free floated barrel, a Herter's glass kit and a used 12x Leupold. I really never expected that.

Mort
 
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Be very wary of "pet loads" for which this is no published load data from reputable sources.

Otherwise, as others have said, there are long established powder / bullet combo for certain calibers that have a long history of success. But like the OP said, you still have to do your own load development and testing for your rifle.

Often, a good place to start relative to bullet / powder / primer combo selection is with the "most accurate" load tested in reputable loading manuals like Nosler, Lyman, Sierra, etc. Even with that data you still should work up the load carefully watching for pressure sights.

I've never found it difficult to find an excellent load using standard loading manuals assuming there isn't a defect in the rifle / scope. It isn't "rocket science" although many of the internet try to make it so similar to cleaning a rifle.
 
When I acquired a 6.5 Grendel AR, i had a good supply of H335, which seemed about right for the bullet I was going to use. After a good bit of research and questions asked of Grendel owners, a powder load range was suggested and a few pet loads. I worked up to that approximate powder charge and found the good load 0.1 grains from the suggested pet loads.

If you shoot a 6.5 CM and use a 140ish gr bullet and H4350, there’s definitely a favored powder load range.

With a 220 Swift and a 55 gr bullet and R15 or IMR4064 you want 38.5 grains or pretty close to it.
 
When I acquired a 6.5 Grendel AR, i had a good supply of H335, which seemed about right for the bullet I was going to use. After a good bit of research and questions asked of Grendel owners, a powder load range was suggested and a few pet loads. I worked up to that approximate powder charge and found the good load 0.1 grains from the suggested pet loads.

If you shoot a 6.5 CM and use a 140ish gr bullet and H4350, there’s definitely a favored powder load range.

With a 220 Swift and a 55 gr bullet and R15 or IMR4064 you want 38.5 grains or pretty close to it.
Great minds must think alike. When I had my Ruger No. 1V in 220 Swift, that was very close to my best load for that rifle:
 

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I have two 1.25" straight barrels that were purchased from the barrel manufacturer at the same time. The same smith chambered both at the same time. After 150 rounds were shot from both, fire forming brass, one is 30 FPS faster than the other with the identical components and load. It happens. It wasn't long before I had to switch lots of H4350. The new lot is 30 FPS slower than the previous lot. Reading this thread made me think what if I published the good load in the slow barrel with the slow lot of H4350 but someone else had the faster lot with the faster barrel. Maybe no big deal but maybe not...

No real point other than a real world example of how different stuff that is labeled similarly can actually be.

Hank
 
All I own are factory guns , but the most accurate load I've shot to date was a hand me down from someone I didn't even know. After getting the load suggestion I loaded 3 the next day, and shot a group in the low 1's off the hood of my truck. The next time out (at a bench) i found out a little seating depth change and .1 less powder produced solid repeatable sub .200 groups in a factory rifle that's less than 6 lbs bare.
 
I hate the term "pet loads". If someone asks what I load for a particular caliber and gun I have no problem telling them exactly what I use EXCEPT for the amount of powder. Then I tell them to follow a reloading manual.
 
I have a good load that works well in all of my 223 Tikka and Remingtons. It’s middle of the road for velocity, but it shoots under an inch in every gun I use it in. Being mild, I don’t worry about over pressure at higher temps. You can call it a “plinkers” load or “pet load” but it won’t satisfy the “living on the edge of danger” guys. Don’t care. I can load up a thousand rounds and they’ll be there when I need them. Just don’t bring up the subject of cold welding. I’m going to explore that with the 2K rounds I loaded last January. It’s a concern.
 
Reading and asking for recommendations, from some of the Experienced Reloader's ( Here ) about,.. BEST Powders, Bullets and seating Depths, HAS lead Me to some,.. VERY Accurate Loads and, the bad CHIT to,. AVOID !
My Nosler Reloading Book, was about, 4 to 5 Grains,. LOW on IMR 7828 Powder rec., when working up my 140 gr. .270 WSM Elk Hunting loads,.. what, a WASTE of TIME,.. that, WAS !!
I take "Pet Loads" with, a Grain of Salt,.. BUT,. some of these Guys HERE,.. REALLY KNOW what, they're doing !
I just LOWER and adjust, the Powder Charge,.. accordingly !
One of the Best "Tips" I ever got, was for the 6 XC and 107 SMK's old posts, the Guys said to,. "Jam" them,..
WOW,. just,.. WOW !!!
Adjust, Test and,.. Verify !
 
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I've Read the Claims of Velocities From 6.5 x 300 Wby's and 6.5 -300 WSM's over on, Long Range Hunting and I just,.. shake my Head !
Claims of, 3,400 to 3,500 + FPS with, 156 Bergers,.. YIKES !
Some "Newbies", are MOST probably, gonna BLOW, their asszzes, OFF,.. trying to, Replicate them.
In my years of 60+ years Shooting, I've Personally seen or, been NEAR, 5, Blown up Guns, 3 Rifles and 2 Shotguns
( usually Loaded with, the WRONG, fast burning, Powder, grabbed,.. by mistake ).
Exploded Guns and Wounds,.. can get Ugly,.. ahh,.. NO,. Thanks !
THINK,.. Bomb, in your Hands and,.. NEAR, your, Eyes !!
 
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I hate the term "pet loads". If someone asks what I load for a particular caliber and gun I have no problem telling them exactly what I use EXCEPT for the amount of powder. Then I tell them to follow a reloading manual.
I completely agree. Start with a middle of the road powder load, according to a loading manual and work from there, adding and/or subtracting .1 grains until you find the sweet spot for that rifle, that bullet weight, etc. For me, load testing following the guidelines in my Lyman manual is a big part of the enjoyment of shooting. That is how I found the load (22.2 gr. of H322 with a Berger 55 gr. FB) that gave great results in my 222 Rem., BAT action bench gun. My Ruger No. 1V in 222 Rem. also works well with that load but I am still working on that one.
Soon I will start load testing for my Ruger M77 Hawkeye in 204 Ruger. As always, I will start with safe loads, according to my manual. Then I will adjust the load until I find a reliable load.
 

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