Testing Carbon Removing Chemicals

[johara1]

I wish somebody would find something good before my Warthog runs out ….. As far as the carbon in the front of the chamber i do it manual with a aluminum arrow shaft turned to a .001 under neck size fast and fool proof……. jim

 

[Wirelessguy2005]

very interesting, i never thought about trying Tactical Advantage for carbon removal. What method did you use for applying it to the muzzle brake? How long did it take to get it clean?

I really have had excellent results with tactical advantage especially with heavy carbon build up like in muzzle brakes and ar15 bolts ....it just almost melts it away.

 

[jonbearman]

Since brownells is out of it where else can you get it. (tactical advantage)

 

[gme]

Tried every carbon cleaner out there, buy far the best has been witches brew, hard to find and expensive but nothing else has come close, works great on copper too

 

[Changeling]

Since brownells is out of it where else can you get it. (tactical advantage)

Does anyone have the exact name of it, including the Manufacturer?

 

[rangertim]

BG products carbon remover if you can find a auto shop that would sale some " you know the commercial Beep Beep"

 

[tonysnoo]

Since brownells is out of it where else can you get it. (tactical advantage)

I get it locally at my sportsmans warehouse. It is made by the Wipeout people. It's in a flip top squeeze bottle. Btw, I have only had so so luck with wipeout.

I just squeeze some on a rag and drop some on/in the heavy carbon and rub. For bores I just put it on a patch and follow up with dry patches as required. Again, I don't have a bore scope to see how it does inside, but it cleans brakes and crowns like crazy.

 

[tonysnoo]

very interesting, i never thought about trying Tactical Advantage for carbon removal. What method did you use for applying it to the muzzle brake? How long did it take to get it clean?

I really have had excellent results with tactical advantage especially with heavy carbon build up like in muzzle brakes and ar15 bolts ....it just almost melts it away.

I remove the brake, the crown cleanes up with just a rag wet with tactical advantage, sometimes a little elbow grease, but no brushes. I drizzle some tactical advantage in and around the brake ports and let it set. After a bit I use a nylon brush and clean the black goo out of it...cleans up great! Actually pretty crazy to watch.

 

[johara1]

very interesting, i never thought about trying Tactical Advantage for carbon removal. What method did you use for applying it to the muzzle brake? How long did it take to get it clean?

I really have had excellent results with tactical advantage especially with heavy carbon build up like in muzzle brakes and ar15 bolts ....it just almost melts it away.

I remove the brake, the crown cleanes up with just a rag wet with tactical advantage, sometimes a little elbow grease, but no brushes. I drizzle some tactical advantage in and around the brake ports and let it set. After a bit I use a nylon brush and clean the black goo out of it...cleans up great! Actually pretty crazy to watch.
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What about the barrel ? That others is cosmetic means very little as far as shooting i'm more interested in how long and hard it is to do the barrel. I need something that can clean between relays not soak for hours or over night. With warthog it is clean in 10 minutes but due to hazmat i can't get it anymore. Everything else i tried is just utter BS. and it doesn't work any better than plan old Hoppes and you need Iosso in the end……. jim

 

[Road_Clam]

I've been using Ed's Red Homebrew for about the past year and dam that stuff works great, and is super cheap to mix (I already had most all of the required chems on my shelf). I'm cleaning about every 200 rounds and what i've learned is that you need to let the chemical sit in the barrel for about an hour then I start my swabbing. Seems to work great. I personally think that most all the commercial bore cleaners are sufficient, you simply need to let them soak in to the carbon for a period of time rather than a quick wet and swab of your barrel. (strictly just my conversational opinion)

 

[johara1]

I've been using Ed's Red Homebrew for about the past year and dam that stuff works great, and is super cheap to mix (I already had most all of the required chems on my shelf). I'm cleaning about every 200 rounds and what i've learned is that you need to let the chemical sit in the barrel for about an hour then I start my swabbing. Seems to work great. I personally think that most all the commercial bore cleaners are sufficient, you simply need to let them soak in to the carbon for a period of time rather than a quick wet and swab of your barrel. (strictly just my conversational opinion)

Here we go ………. soak for a period of time…….. i wish i had that luxury of time……. jim

 

[lpreddick]

I am skeptical that a non abrasive chemical and patches will remove the " baked on/in" carbon that builds up, esp with dirty powders. I used them all plus some really toxic home brews and they all get out the burned powder residue. Run a bronze brush down the bore 3-4 times, then a wet patch...black, black! After more bronze brushing, patches are white. I will try any non abrasive chemical that gets the baked on/in carbon if a borescope shows this happens. Does one exist?

 

[TimP]

I have found Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover to do a do a pretty good job of removing carbon. I clean at the range while my barrel is still warm after 50 rounds or so depending on which barrel. I push 10 to 15 C4 saturated patches thru the bore or until the evidence of the carbon is almost gone. I then dry the bore and then run a patch of IPA followed by a dry patch. After that I will push a couple of patches with Patch-Out thru the bore to see how much copper (blue) I get. I then apply Wipe-Out Accelerator and Patch-Out to a nylon brush and run it thru the bore 3 to 5 times and let it soak for 20 minutes. At this point my bore is typically clean. When I get home I inspect the bore with a bore scope and if needed adjust my cleaning accordingly.

 

[TimP]

I've been using Ed's Red Homebrew for about the past year and dam that stuff works great, and is super cheap to mix (I already had most all of the required chems on my shelf). I'm cleaning about every 200 rounds and what i've learned is that you need to let the chemical sit in the barrel for about an hour then I start my swabbing. Seems to work great. I personally think that most all the commercial bore cleaners are sufficient, you simply need to let them soak in to the carbon for a period of time rather than a quick wet and swab of your barrel. (strictly just my conversational opinion)

Here we go ………. soak for a period of time…….. i wish i had that luxury of time……. jim

Well when you find something that works without soaking other than Warthog 1134 please let me know!

 

[tonysnoo]

very interesting, i never thought about trying Tactical Advantage for carbon removal. What method did you use for applying it to the muzzle brake? How long did it take to get it clean?

I really have had excellent results with tactical advantage especially with heavy carbon build up like in muzzle brakes and ar15 bolts ....it just almost melts it away.

I remove the brake, the crown cleanes up with just a rag wet with tactical advantage, sometimes a little elbow grease, but no brushes. I drizzle some tactical advantage in and around the brake ports and let it set. After a bit I use a nylon brush and clean the black goo out of it...cleans up great! Actually pretty crazy to watch.
[/quote}



What about the barrel ? That others is cosmetic means very little as far as shooting i'm more interested in how long and hard it is to do the barrel. I need something that can clean between relays not soak for hours or over night. With warthog it is clean in 10 minutes but due to hazmat i can't get it anymore. Everything else i tried is just utter BS. and it doesn't work any better than plan old Hoppes and you need Iosso in the end……. jim

Hey Jim,

I do wish I could answer your question. I just have no way of telling you without a borescope. I do know that none of my other miracle gun cleaning products will melt the visible carbon like this stuff....I can only AssUMe after that ...... it's a $15 experiment.

Good Luck and Keep your powder dry.


Happy New Year Everyone

 

[johara1]

I have a whole shelf full of failed bore cleaners, a couple more to go and i will have had almost all of them. Their claims are like those who make fishing lures they are made to catch fishermen not fish……… lol…….. jim

 

[Joe Salt]

Jim I remember someone having cleaning patches, that were like the crazy cloth. Never could find any to try! Think that would be what you are looking for. But I think if you are retired like me, you hopefully have a lot of time to clean.

 

[johara1]

Jim I remember someone having cleaning patches, that were like the crazy cloth. Never could find any to try! Think that would be what you are looking for. But I think if you are retired like me, you hopefully have a lot of time to clean.

Joe, at home it isn't a big deal but at a match it is. Warthog 1134 just had me spoiled over the years……. jim

 

[Joe R]

Road_Clam said:
I personally think that most all the commercial bore cleaners are sufficient, you simply need to let them soak in to the carbon for a period of time rather than a quick wet and swab of your barrel. (strictly just my conversational opinion)

I agree wholeheartedly. Carbon is porous and giving a liquid time to soak in makes a big difference. There is simply no substitute for 15-30 minutes of time. Kroil being a penetrating oil may expedite things slightly. I also use a bore scope to see the results.

My current favorite is Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner simply because I spray it and let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then run a nylon brush through it to dislodge whatever is in there and then I clean everything out. I think the foam does a better job of soaking into the top of the barrel then liquids that have a tendency to migrate downwards.

The last thing I do is run a wet patch of kroil in there so it can soak in. I believe it makes cleaning easier next time because stuff doesn't stick as much as a dry bore. Next time my first shot will be down a cold bore, not a dry bore. The whole process not counting the soaking time takes me 5 to 6 minutes.

Kindest regards,

Joe

 

[michaelnel]

Regarding soaking... I think that if we put whatever nasty brew we use in there and let it soak, won't gravity move whatever it is from the top of the bore to the bottom, leaving the top and sides NOT soaking?

I wonder if rotating the weapon periodically during whatever soak period there is would help?

This would seem to be one advantage of the abrasive methods using JB or IOSSO.