Tempilaq

[Coolhand]

Gents , what is the consistency of Tempilaq ? I have just acquired a bottle and it looks rather 'thin'. When applied to a case it dries patchy , I just assumed that it would be more viscous maybe a little less than honey.

regards

Mike

 

[bsumoba]

I've noticed 650 and 700 is on the thicker side relative to 750 degree.

750 is kind of thin. It does dry a little patchy. I usually get some on the brush, then let it sit for a while to dry, then apply to get a slightly thicker coat.

 

[KWeigel]

Try shaking vigorously. Some of that stuff sticks to the bottom very hard. Mine is thin but doesn't blotch when applied.

 

[snakepit]

I once had a bottle of Tempilaq that was extremely thin so I left the lid off for a while and let some of the solvent evaporate until the Tempilaq was the consistency I wanted.

What whunt_64 said about shaking the bottle vigorously is also a good tip.

Here is another Tempil product although it does not apply to the OP's problem. Tempil makes a Product called "Green Label Thinner" Part No. 24597 for replacing evaporated solvent from your Tempilaq or to dilute Tempilaq.

.

 

[Coolhand]

I've noticed 650 and 700 is on the thicker side relative to 750 degree.

750 is kind of thin. It does dry a little patchy. I usually get some on the brush, then let it sit for a while to dry, then apply to get a slightly thicker coat.

Bsumoba , contacted a mate of mine that has a selection of Templiaq , he confirmed what you said about the lower temp ranges being more viscous than the 750 F. I put my bottle into my tumbler and some media and let it go for about 5 minutes , no real improvement and is still patchy when applied, perhaps the bottle I have maybe borderline 'past date ?'

Mike.

 

[Road_Clam]

I've used both the liquid form and the "stick" . I prefer the stick as it's more simple to use. It takes me a few tries but once I find the melt point, I just count seconds. Usually about 5 seconds per casing of heat gets me to about 650F.

 

[nosualc]

I've been using the tempilaq for a few years now, and have found it works better for me when it's thinned. It applies more evenly, and dries quicker when thin. I've used the thinner they sell to make even thinner than it comes from the factory.

Like anything I suppose, it can be taken too far, but I've never had a problem with it drying patchy.

-nosualc

 

[Geronimo Jim]

When it goes on patchy, shake the crap out of it for a long time and the it is smooth.

 

[dalej]

Had a tough time finding Tempilaq, Markall wax sticks were easy to find. I use a Bench Source annealer and with a bit of experimentation found checking temps on cases one place out of the flame works great. Not sure of temp brass is peaking at in the flame, but if it melts a 450F wax stick its good. Melting a 550F wax stick is too much and cooled case mouths can be pinched oblong with fingers. With the 450F temp necking down and setting shoulders back is easy and cases don't fold or collapse.

 

[Coolhand]

Thanks Guys , maybe I am concerned for no reason , I have shook the bottle until my wrist gave out but it has not thickened.
No matter , two coats stops the patchy finish.

Mike.

 

[amamnn]

You have to shake the shit out of 750 (green) Tempilaq and it still goes on patchy. BTW, when using with a torch, you have to really clean the inside of the neck and put it there because your torch will burn off any on the outside LONG before any annealing is done. Using the thinner to remove any excess
(unmelted) is a pain, but it works.

I like the laq over the stick because with my induction annealer I can see the moment when the metal gets to the desired temp--to use the stick properly, you have to remove the brass from the heat source and then apply the crayon. You'd be surprised at how fast brass cools down from 750 degrees (laq applied on one side) beyond 650 (crayon [stick] applied on the other) as soon as could be after the heat source was removed...this is according to Tempil's instructions.... when I first started annealing with an inductor, I was told an alternative method of using the crayon--it is not accurate, I found out the hard way and just recently. I never got the stick to melt except one time when my son was around to provide an extra hand and dab the stick (crayon) on the brass as fast as I could remove the brass from the inductor coil--since I do not have 3 hands and I am annealing short fat cases that require the use of tongs to keep from burning my fingers, the stick is useless to me. So-- I was never quite sure if I had overheated the case (when the crayon did melt) -or under heat it (when the crayon did not melt) -but with the liquid there is no question. Long thin cases like .223m rem or .30-06 can be held in the hand and annealed this way, and the crayon can be applied quicker--but I don't shoot them much if at all, anymore.

Here is a good source for all things Tempil---- http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-crayons/=vzwito -- I just got a new bottle of thinner from them yesterday.

 

[bubbapug1]

I use xylene to thin the thickened bottles. It works great. I'm sure the factory thinner works better but when you need to anneal you need to anneal. Add a little at a time. Seems not to affect melting point either from what my harbor freight infrared gun shows.

 

[JayHHI6818]

Thx for this post. Recently bought 650 Yellow from McMaster Carr. It dries patchy too so I'll give brass two coats