Tempilaq for annealing

[dsbur]

For those of us still taking baby steps towards annealing with a drill/deep socket, which temperature indicator for Tempilaq. 700, 750, 650? Wading thru a plethora of articles and it seems I want a few seconds at 750(?) and I'm certainly mindful to keep the base cool(!).

A helpful and more definitive link on the Internet would be helpful also.

I've been muddling thru this over the years and actually think I'm doing OK but every now and then I get a sour note on my .308 Lapua brass. Until I make friends with someone with a real machine this is where I'm at for now.

Thanks in advance-

 

[jonbearman]

I use 750 degree on the neck and shoulder and 450 on the body to keep an eye on how much heat has migrated down the case.I do this initially to get the timing set up and not on every case as it is a pain to clean off.

 

[LHSmith]

The Benchsource Instruction manual recommends 650 and 400. Get the liquid form and a bottle of Tempilaq thinner also.

 

[Martin52]

For those of us still taking baby steps towards annealing with a drill/deep socket, which temperature indicator for Tempilaq. 700, 750, 650?

Thanks in advance-

I have used the deep socket/power drill technique on .308 lapua brass for some time.

When originally determing the time that the case needs in the flame, I painted a line of 475 F Tempilaq from the case neck down through the shoulder to the base on several cases.

I then applied the flame to each of the cases, one at a time, and using a stop watch, held the case in the flame for 4,5,6,7,and 8 seconds, spinning in the deep socket.

With my brass and torch set up, I found that 6 seconds was required for the Tempilaq to melt to a point about half an inch below the neck shoulder junction which is approximately where you must stop. Any longer and the case head is in danger of being annealed. Below that position, the rest of the tempilaq remained dry. (The Hornday annelaing kit includes 475 f tempilaq and provides details regarding this technique).

I did try 650-700 F tempilaq, this is most suited to use around the case neck and for me it was not as successful as using the 475 F tempilaq applied to the case body, as above.

After this "trial" I moved to anneal batches of cases using the deep socket chucked into a slow rpm drill, keeping the flame the same distance from the case neck/shoulder junction as in the above trial and using a large stop watch placed behind the gas torch in direct line of sight. I do not then apply tempilaq except for checking/re-checking the timing before I anneal a batch of cases, it's tricky to remove and creates another cleaning job.


Martin

 

[Blaster-37]

dsbur
Annealing. 650 F for neck and shoulders and 350 F or 400 F on the lower half of the case body for most cases. Caution, you do not want to overheat the case head. The Templaq should NOT change within 1 inch of the case head.
For more information consult the annealer instructions such as the Bench-Source Annealing Machine by Vertex Manufacturing. This can be sourced on-line.
I have gone through many annealers. I do alot of brass for myself and many other competition shooters. This is important not just for brass life but also for consistant neck tension. It is very important to get it right, by testing, as each lot is a little different. We have had found the best results by annealing every firing right out of the box, including Lapuas.
Greg

 

[savageshooter86]

I did try 650-700 F tempilaq, this is most suited to use around the case neck and for me it was not as successful as using the 475 F tempilaq applied to the case body, as above.

What were your results? Just curious as I just started using 750 on the necks

Thanks

 

[Martin52]

I did try 650-700 F tempilaq, this is most suited to use around the case neck and for me it was not as successful as using the 475 F tempilaq applied to the case body, as above.

What were your results? Just curious as I just started using 750 on the necks

Thanks

I found that using Tempilaq either inside or outside the case neck places it directly in the flame and as a result it was more difficult to determine when it was turning to liquid form - it tended to blacken overall, sometimes turned more gritty. Placing the Tempilaq on the side of the case keeps it away from the centre of the flame (which is on the case neck, not the case body) and allows it to do it's job - being to measure the heat that travels from the neck down to the body. I can see the transfer from paste to liquid form much more easily. I picked this up from the Hornady advice in their annealing kit.