Technical aspect of Adams trickler system?

[DngBat7]

I was pondering getting the Adams system. I’m not total dummy (only partial), but not a brain surgeon either or a software engineer. So how hard is it to setup and maintain? And can it be glitchy? Just kind of want a easy operation system like my charge master.

 

[DDRH65PRC]

I've had some issues. the Trickler pulley wears out fast. it drys up, develops cracks. however, i believe on Adam's website, he mentions, if you need more pulleys, just send him a msg.

My other major problem was the trickler not spinning smoothly and throws powder all over my FX120, then i have to clean it all up. it's a bit difficult to do with the hopper on top.

however, i'll just have to "pre-tune" it and make sure the trickler runs smoothly before adding any powder in. could possibly be bad pulley i'm currently using...maybe causing tension issues.

I'm curious if anyone uses some type of lube for the trickler tube to run smoothly. it's not necessary as the brass rings act as lubricant.

operation maybe a bit more difficult than a charge master, because it doesn't have a keypad to punch in the grain you want...however, the speed and accuracy makes up for all of that. Also the fact that my FX120 doesn't drift makes life easier. Its less sensitive to fluorescent and other electrical noise.

I haven't touched my Charge Master Lite since I've been using the FX120.

 

[rardoin]

Very easy to set-up. I have had my auto-trickler since he first brought them out. I have not had any items wear except the 'o-ring' drive belt....easily replaced in seconds. I do recommend getting a 'Area 419' billet base as it will smooth out the operation of the step-motor and make adjusting the tube angle a snap; the tube angle is critical for proper and efficient operation. I had a recent episode where the trickler tube would vibrate wildly and throw powder everywhere. It was just an issue with lack of lubrication of the bearings. I had no issues for 2+ years and had been adding a little graphite to the powder to serve as a dry lube. I had gotten away from the practice and the results was the above bearing chatter. I did put a drop or two of Teflon lube on each bearing and let it dry before use. It has been good to go for at least 6 months now (with no addition of graphite to the powder). The autothrower/autotrickler combo is the best addition I have ever made to reloading from a speed/convenience standpoint.

 

[DDRH65PRC]

Rardoin, thanks! i thought i was the only one with the vibrating trickler tube. Will try some dry teflon lube.

 

[Gabe22BR]

I got one when they was on sale. Unpacking & setting it up was easy- plug & play. I use a set of RCBS check weights to get my target wt. I use a Harrell’s classic culver throw to get close, then let it trickle up in grams....shelved the 10-10 scales manual trickler & BR30 throw.

 

[DngBat7]

I got one when they was on sale. Unpacking & setting it up was easy- plug & play. I use a set of RCBS check weights to get my target wt. I use a Harrell’s classic culver throw to get close, then let it trickle up in grams....shelved the 10-10 scales manual trickler & BR30 throw.

That’s actually what I was thinking of doing. Using my harrels with the trickler. Question, If the trickler under throws, is there a button to drop a kernel or 2 if necessary. Right now I use a dandy and can drop one if it’s short

 

[DDRH65PRC]

That’s actually what I was thinking of doing. Using my harrels with the trickler. Question, If the trickler under throws, is there a button to drop a kernel or 2 if necessary. Right now I use a dandy and can drop one if it’s short

No, if it under throws, no button. Sometimes I get anal and will use a tweezers to drop 1 kernel in.

Using the Area 419 base helps, I noticed with the 3-D printed base, the trickler would move around a bit. I highly recommend the A419 base. It's got adjustable feet. I setup so that the tube sits higher...basically at an incline, this helps to trickle 1-2 kernals at a time.

I also use the A419 powder cup.

As for the hopper, nothing wrong with your Harrels. You don't need the motorized hopper. I bought a bunch of the cheap Lee hoppers for different powders (same as the one you can purchase from Adam). I manually draw a charge and use the powered trickler.

I'll disconnect the motorized hopper if I'm using the manual one. Or at least make sure there's no other different powder that could contaminate your charge.

 

[Gabe22BR]

Using the scales in grams, gets you the +-. 001 accuracy.
You’ll figure out how much each kernel weights, on different powders.
In the.01 grain mode , tweezers might come in handy..

Using the recommending trickler base mentioned above solves most the problems of over/under target weights

 

[Gabe22BR]

All depending on how far down the ladder of cutting kernels to get to .001 accuracy in every charge, one wants to get...

Most of the time the .01 grain measurement is close enough.
There are other things to worry about, neck tension, seating pressure, ..did I prime this case, are these annealed?? Where’s the Bullets I sorted?

 

[DngBat7]

No, if it under throws, no button. Sometimes I get anal and will use a tweezers to drop 1 kernel in.

Using the Area 419 base helps, I noticed with the 3-D printed base, the trickler would move around a bit. I highly recommend the A419 base. It's got adjustable feet. I setup so that the tube sits higher...basically at an incline, this helps to trickle 1-2 kernals at a time.

I also use the A419 powder cup.

As for the hopper, nothing wrong with your Harrels. You don't need the motorized hopper. I bought a bunch of the cheap Lee hoppers for different powders (same as the one you can purchase from Adam). I manually draw a charge and use the powered trickler.

I'll disconnect the motorized hopper if I'm using the manual one. Or at least make sure there's no other different powder that could contaminate your charge.

So that’s a great idea on the tilting with the 419 base. Is the powder cup necessary? When you say cup, for scooping the powder and dumping on the scale, or what the powder measures into on the scale?

 

[DngBat7]

All depending on how far down the ladder of cutting kernels to get to .001 accuracy in every charge, one wants to get...

Most of the time the .01 grain measurement is close enough.
There are other things to worry about, neck tension, seating pressure, ..did I prime this case, are these annealed?? Where’s the Bullets I sorted?

I think once I start cutting kernels, I will sell everything and start seeing a therapist

 

[DDRH65PRC]

So that’s a great idea on the tilting with the 419 base. Is the powder cup necessary? When you say cup, for scooping the powder and dumping on the scale, or what the powder measures into on the scale?

Not for scooping, for weighing charge.

A419 Powder cup is NOT necessary. you can use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WMP03E/?tag=accuratescom-20

but if you do, make sure you're using the manual powder drop, and put it close to the pour spout...or you'll have kernels jumping out. i used it with the motorized hopper and kernels were jumping out. distance between the pour spout and cup was too great.


A419 cup:
https://www.area419.com/product/area-419-billet-powder-cup/

really nice cup, i really like it. long handle makes it easy to grab a hold of, since i only have one window open on the FX120. cup weighs roughly ~700 grains. sometimes they have blems for sale...oh and use "sendit" for free shipping...but minimum is $100 worth i think.

 

[Gabe22BR]

I just used my 10-10 pan

 

[KenOath]

I was pondering getting the Adams system. I’m not total dummy (only partial), but not a brain surgeon either or a software engineer. So how hard is it to setup and maintain? And can it be glitchy? Just kind of want a easy operation system like my charge master.

I’ve had the 120i with Autotrickler2 for almost two years now...It’s plug n play, I’ve had zero issues with it maintenance wise or software/mechanical wise.. jme.

 

[Twoboxer]

. . . If the trickler under throws, is there a button to drop a kernel or 2 if necessary. Right now I use a dandy and can drop one if it’s short

No. You just scoop out a bit of the powder . . . just enough to make it begin throwing . . . and let the scale try again. Same if it happens to overthrow.

Personally, I'd wait before buying any accessories. Depending on your personal preferences and actual experience with the product, you may not need any.

 

[pikespeakgoat]

I’ve had the 120i with Autotrickler2 for almost two years now...It’s plug n play, I’ve had zero issues with it maintenance wise or software/mechanical wise.. jme.

Ditto, not a single issue in the 2 years I have owned the auto trickler.

I also have had zero issues with trickler moving on the suppliesd base and I use one of the RCBS plastic pan/funnel combos..

My Chargemaster and my 1010 have seen zero use since I got the auto trickler, and setup is piece of cake.

Maintenance has also been zilch, I just keep it covered and unplugged when not in use.

 

[DngBat7]

Thanks everyone. You put me on the right track!

 

[F Class John]

The only thing I would like to add is that no matter the problems are the issues that might arise Adam is 100% customer focused and amazing to deal with. I will also say that if you buy your scale from Cambridge they are as equally amazing to deal with. I’ve had minor issues with both pieces of the unit and neither one of them is afraid to get on the phone and take as long as necessary to resolve the issue.

As an aside, so is Craig and the team at Area 419.

I have no stake in any of those three other than I use their equipment but all three companies are top notch.

 

[DDRH65PRC]

Ditto, not a single issue in the 2 years I have owned the auto trickler.

I also have had zero issues with trickler moving on the suppliesd base and I use one of the RCBS plastic pan/funnel combos..

My Chargemaster and my 1010 have seen zero use since I got the auto trickler, and setup is piece of cake.

Maintenance has also been zilch, I just keep it covered and unplugged when not in use.

i'm actually curious about this. I leave my balance powered on. I still check with calibration weight prior to any reloading. most of everything i've read, say that analytical/lab balances should be kept powered on.

http://www.denverinstrumentusa.com/balances/commandments.php
"EIGHT: Thou shalt not unplug. To perform within published specifications balances must have power applied for 30 minutes to 48 hours depending on the resolution of the balance. Denver balances have a standby mode which turn the display to standby but keep power cycling through the electronics."

mine is plugged in to an APC power surge protector. there's also a ground screw in the back of the FX120, so far i haven't had any static issues that causes drifting.

 

[group therapy]

I think once I start cutting kernels, I will sell everything and start seeing a therapist

YEP!!!!!!!! OR DRILLING THEM!!!!!