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Tailstock DRO

LVLAaron

Gold $$ Contributor
24-03-23 17-36-18 0096.jpg

I cannot find the thread where we discussed this. But I got around to rigging up a tailstock DRO. I haven't installed a proper hard stop for the tailstock yet, but I've done a couple chambers with it just by feel, and am within a thou. The holder needs to be churched up a bit, but it works better than I expected. Highly recommend.
 
It looks like you have a 1440gt. I made an
alternate bottom piece for the carriage stop, so that it would clamp to the rear ways, and act as a tail stock stop. I don’t use it that way anymore. If I need a tail stock stop, I just lock the carriage down in the appropriate spot.
 
It looks like you have a 1440gt. I made an
alternate bottom piece for the carriage stop, so that it would clamp to the rear ways, and act as a tail stock stop. I don’t use it that way anymore. If I need a tail stock stop, I just lock the carriage down in the appropriate spot.
Correct. As it sits, The tailstock runs into the DRO cover. I just need to thread a bolt into the cross slide
 
View attachment 1539781

I cannot find the thread where we discussed this. But I got around to rigging up a tailstock DRO. I haven't installed a proper hard stop for the tailstock yet, but I've done a couple chambers with it just by feel, and am within a thou. The holder needs to be churched up a bit, but it works better than I expected. Highly recommend.
Very nice install. Handy to be able to zero the caliper anywhere you need it. Simple is good, when it comes to reaming a chamber to depth. Carry on young man. I use the locked carriage as a hard stop when needed.
Paul
 
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View attachment 1539781

I cannot find the thread where we discussed this. But I got around to rigging up a tailstock DRO. I haven't installed a proper hard stop for the tailstock yet, but I've done a couple chambers with it just by feel, and am within a thou. The holder needs to be churched up a bit, but it works better than I expected. Highly recommend.
I sort of understand the hard stop thing but don't know why it's needed. Splain it to me please.
 
To "reset" the tailstock back to the same place after retracting it. I'm not convinced I need to do that. I'm hitting my numbers by feeling the reamer re-seat into the chamber. I've got a couple carbide reamers (alpha) that may disagree with me though.
 
I sort of understand the hard stop thing but don't know why it's needed. Splain it to me please.
I like to pull my tailstock away from the chuck when cleaning and checking the chamber along the way. My tailstock dial has 25 thou graduations between the lines on the dial. It's no problem to stop on a line but guessing something in between gets tricky. My lathe has a dro on the carriage so I just zero the dro and then when I need to go in 12 thou or what ever that number may be on the final cut I just move the carriage that amount on the dro, lock it back down, slide the tailstock back up to the carriage, and run the reamer back in to the same line I stopped on previously and it comes out just right.

When I tried just going by feel when the reamer touched or started cutting again I would sometimes over or undershoot the depth. This process has pretty much eliminated that for me and has been working great.
 
I use a hard stop to position the tailstock. Lets me get it out of the way to check things. The tailstock screw has a dial on it in thousanths for the fine depth control. I added a 2 inch travel indicator to my old lathe just like you did.
 
this is what I use and is far superior to a caliper. Going to a caliper is a step backwards!
I wouldn't go to that extent. Both work just as well IMHO. Both ways can achieve the same. Keep in mind that you need to keep that indicator perpendicular to your stop, otherwise a cosine error can be introduced.

I use a digital scale on my tailstock. I've used indicators just like you use. Both work well. The scale is much more convenient for my usage.
 

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