Stupid question on bedding

[Kratos]

In roughing out the insetted area to allow for a certain thickness of bedding, say 1/8", how can one make sure that there aren't any hot spots that are still touching the action?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If you can see them thru the bedding.

 

[Kratos]

If you can see them thru the bedding.

That’s what I was afraid of!

 

[Dusty Stevens]

That’s what I was afraid of!

Well you need a couple spots to keep it oriented in the right spots anyway, so once you bed it, grind those spots back out and do your second bedding. No different than any other time

 

[jepp2]

I follow this method (contact at rear tang and tape on barrel). Works fine for me.
https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

 

[Kratos]

Well you need a couple spots to keep it oriented in the right spots anyway, so once you bed it, grind those spots back out and do your second bedding. No different than any other time

Well, this first stock is one that’s OK to mess up, so we’ll see.

 

[david kieffer]

In roughing out the insetted area to allow for a certain thickness of bedding, say 1/8", how can one make sure that there aren't any hot spots that are still touching the action?

Try this trick . take some modeling clay and roll it into a rope , lay it in the stock than apply a coat of oil or thin grease to the action .set it in place and tighten her down than remove. the clay should stay in place . now stab the clay with a tooth pick , use your finger nail to grip it @ the top of the clay than measure, this will give you an idea of how much you need to relieve . hope this helps ,good luck dave ps remove all residue prior to release agent and epoxy

 

[agr516]

The day before I begin a bedding job, I will mix a tiny amount of bedding material and place it in the barrel channel just back from the tip of the forearm. Then when I put the barreled action back into the stock, that bedding will conform to the barrel contour and create a "cradle" for the barrel to rest on in its original stock position. After that cures, I go ahead and do my relief work in the stock and leave a small spot untouched under the tang of the action. Between that small spot under the tang and the cradle in the forearm that I created the day before, I can relieve all that I need to in the action and lug area and still have those two points for the action and barrel to rest on in its original position and height in the stock. When I go to do my cleanup after the action bedding cures, I just pop that cradle out of the forearm with a screwdriver. I am not a very skilled stock bedder but that is the best way that I have found to help ensure that I end up with my barreled action resting in the proper place in the stock after I bed it.

 

[Liven The Dream]

Try this trick . take some modeling clay and roll it into a rope , lay it in the stock than apply a coat of oil or thin grease to the action .set it in place and tighten her down than remove. the clay should stay in place . now stab the clay with a tooth pick , use your finger nail to grip it @ the top of the clay than measure, this will give you an idea of how much you need to relieve . hope this helps ,good luck dave ps remove all residue prior to release agent and epoxy

Like Plastic Gauge on Rod bearings ! Smart Man.

 

[pdhntr]

In roughing out the insetted area to allow for a certain thickness of bedding, say 1/8", how can one make sure that there aren't any hot spots that are still touching the action?

Inletting black, lipstick or lamp black. And with a gizzy you can take the bottom down exactly the 1/8" you want.

Jim

I like the flavored lipstick.

 

[Kratos]

Inletting black, lipstick or lamp black. And with a gizzy you can take the bottom down exactly the 1/8" you want.

Jim

I like the flavored lipstick.

Thank you, that’s what I was looking for.

What is a gizzy?

 

[Clancy]

I get pretty aggressive when removing material. I leave a high spot behind the front pillar, and in front of the rear pillar. I also remove a little extra behind the recoil lug.

Cure upside down.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I get pretty aggressive when removing material. I leave a high spot behind the front pillar, and in front of the rear pillar. I also remove a little extra behind the recoil lug.

Cure upside down.

Why cure upside down? I like gravity to help

 

[Clancy]

@Dusty Stevens

No bubbles. I use pro bed, a heat gun insures that it reaches every nook and cranny and helps bubbles rise, after they are popped with a hot needle, I set the barreled action in, snug it up, do the initial clean up then flip it over. Some additional cleanup is sometimes required.

I can’t remember the last time I had to do one twice. I learned this method from one of the best. Works well.

 

[pdhntr]

Thank you, that’s what I was looking for.

What is a gizzy?

There are many gizzies in stock making. This particular one is probably the easiest to make.

A piece of wood maybe 1 inch by 1 inch and about 5 inches long, but these measurements are not critical. If you are a rich man, you will have a screw about 3 to 4 inches long, otherwise a nail will work. Run the nail or screw through the middle of the piece of wood.

As you are looking at it, the wood is the "X" axis and the screw or nail is the "Y" axis. The wood rides on the gunwhales (so to speak) of the stock. The screw (or nail) is adjusted to give you a depth reading. You can also put pencil lines on the gizzy to help with depth measurements to the left and right of the centerline. Adjust accordingly.

Hope this helps.

Jim