hey guys i got a mauser i picked up at a yard sale that thought would make a nice deer rifle and the price was right, well got it home and tried to take the barrel off and it wouldn't move. i have my barrel vise as tight as it will go to the point where i have to hit the action wrench just to move it and the barrel keep spinning in the vise and wont come free from the action. any ideas on how to get her off?
stuck barrel
- Thread starter mitchell
- Start date
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
Soak it in Kroil for a few days or however long it takes...
A good bit of heat from a hot air gun will help break it loose..
Rosin in the bushing may help...
Double sided tape will work sometimes..
If all else fails you'll need to cut a relief groove between the barrel and the receiver, and that will ruin the barrel..
100 years of gunk will stick em pretty tight.....
A good bit of heat from a hot air gun will help break it loose..
Rosin in the bushing may help...
Double sided tape will work sometimes..
If all else fails you'll need to cut a relief groove between the barrel and the receiver, and that will ruin the barrel..
100 years of gunk will stick em pretty tight.....
I have taken the barrel of ~100 old Mausers.
The 1903 Turkish Mauser are the worst, as they were barreled in 1938 from 7.5mm to 8mm and seem to have been in the rain ever since.
I put the barrel in the barrel vise with a 1.5' outside diameter Aluminum bushing. I clean the inside of the bushing and the part of the barrel to be gripped with Alcohol. I built the vise with 1/2-13 bolts and I tighten them with 200 pound jerks on a 2 foot wrench = 400 foot pounds of torque on tightening threads.
I put the action in a action wrench made of lengths of 2'x2' steel.
I put a 3 foot cheater bar on action wrench and sit on it with my 200 pounds = 600 pounds torque to loosen barrel from action.
I put 5 drops of Kroil in the barrel - action junction and wait 15 seconds.
While sitting on the cheater bar, I hit the action wrench with a 20 pound piece of steel, 6' from the receiver.
This process does not work with out the Kroil, and everyone that watches me do it goes out an buys some Kroil.
The 1903 Turkish Mauser are the worst, as they were barreled in 1938 from 7.5mm to 8mm and seem to have been in the rain ever since.
I put the barrel in the barrel vise with a 1.5' outside diameter Aluminum bushing. I clean the inside of the bushing and the part of the barrel to be gripped with Alcohol. I built the vise with 1/2-13 bolts and I tighten them with 200 pound jerks on a 2 foot wrench = 400 foot pounds of torque on tightening threads.
I put the action in a action wrench made of lengths of 2'x2' steel.
I put a 3 foot cheater bar on action wrench and sit on it with my 200 pounds = 600 pounds torque to loosen barrel from action.
I put 5 drops of Kroil in the barrel - action junction and wait 15 seconds.
While sitting on the cheater bar, I hit the action wrench with a 20 pound piece of steel, 6' from the receiver.
This process does not work with out the Kroil, and everyone that watches me do it goes out an buys some Kroil.
A relief groove won't help on a Mauser as the barrel is fitted with an inner torque shoulder.
That's where the bind usually is.
Kroil,heat and kind words on the end of a cheater bar usually does it. LOL
Groove works on Remchesters and the like though.
Regards,
Steve
That's where the bind usually is.
Kroil,heat and kind words on the end of a cheater bar usually does it. LOL
Groove works on Remchesters and the like though.
Regards,
Steve
I've used Clark's method to do about 30 of them in my dad's shop. Rarely have either of us had to cut a relief groove.
WD-40 was used instead of Kroil, it worked just as well for me since we didn't have any of the other stuff. The key to the Kroil trick is that whack from a steel bar or ball peen hammer, I learned it from an old locomotive mechanic.
We had something really stuck at a place I worked at in college, he had me hang on the bar, sprayed WD in it and gave it 2 quick raps with the ball peen. I fell on my ass it let go so quickly.
Turks are bastards to get loose, so are some of the MN 91/30's. Those I've cut relief grooves on, but only twice. The rot and pitting in the metal had made the action unservicable upon inspection after we got them apart.
WD-40 was used instead of Kroil, it worked just as well for me since we didn't have any of the other stuff. The key to the Kroil trick is that whack from a steel bar or ball peen hammer, I learned it from an old locomotive mechanic.
We had something really stuck at a place I worked at in college, he had me hang on the bar, sprayed WD in it and gave it 2 quick raps with the ball peen. I fell on my ass it let go so quickly.
Turks are bastards to get loose, so are some of the MN 91/30's. Those I've cut relief grooves on, but only twice. The rot and pitting in the metal had made the action unservicable upon inspection after we got them apart.
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