Stuck 30/06 case in small base die

[ba_50]

I used a 1/4 -20 bolt and 7/32 drill and the threads stripped out. Tried 1/4-28 bolt next. Tried lube and propane torch. Still stuck. Left pressure on bolt overnight in the freezer and it didn't come loose. Tried heat but it stripped out.

The only other ideas are a 5/16 course or machine bolt if there is enough room or an easy out.
Thanks

 

[Boyd L.]

I used a 1/4 -20 bolt and 7/32 drill and the threads stripped out. Tried 1/4-28 bolt next. Tried lube and propane torch. Still stuck. Left pressure on bolt overnight in the freezer and it didn't come loose. Tried heat but it stripped out.

The only other ideas are a 5/16 course or machine bolt if there is enough room or an easy out.
Thanks

I had a similar experience recently with a much smaller case. A .223.
I inserted the die into the reloading press from the bottom up so that the remaining portion of the case's base and the bottom of the die were sticking up through the press. I snugged the locking ring up against the press frame so that when turning counterclockwise from the top the die wouldn't turn anymore. Using a propane torch primarily on the inside of the brass case to warm it (never got it red) I then grasped the protruding portion and turned the case counterclockwise. It immediately came loose.

 

[P72]

There is a new method but I have not tried it because I am fearful of getting cases stuck so I lube them up properly.

The new method involves driving the stuck case out with a rod that is pounded upon by some type of shatter proof hammer. In my mind the drill would be to extract the decap rod and expander button using a threaded nut that fits the threaded stem and is turned thus lifting the decap rod & expander out. The next step would be to insert 1 of 2 rods to fit either small or large base cases and pound on the rod using my large hard rubber hammer. Hopefully the attack on the stuck case will drive it out.

As careful as I am I do get a case stuck - like 3 in the past 40 years. The last stuck case was a .223 sized in a small base die and that process was real iffy using a drill & tap that came close to failing to extract. I like the Lee wax type case lube but there are others that are regarded to be superior.

Boyd L.'s method sounds good but I am real fearful of open flame in my loading room and then there is the heat problem on dies affecting hardness.

 

[SheepDog]

If you get frustrated with it you can send it back to the manufacturer and they will remove the stuck case and polish the die if it needs to be done. I don't know what lube you are using but you either used too little or the lube is not up to the job the way you are using it. Too much lube and you get dents but too little and you lose your case and maybe damage the die. Most case lubes do a great job when used correctly and a small amount will last for years so expense is not a big concern. With all the work I do with metal I have all kinds of lubricants and most are compositions that I mix myself. My case lube is 60% ATF, 30% kerosene, and 10% Hilton's HyperLube. (it is like STP oil treatment but thinner.) I use a few shop towels stretched tightly over a piece of plywood and brush the mixture in - just enough to dampen the towels not saturate them. The towels are almost dry to the touch. A quick roll in the pad and into the sizer. (I do this only when I am using range brass because after it is fired in my gun once it only gets neck sized and I use carbide neck sizers.

 

[Albany Mountain]

Drill it for the 5/16, tap for 5/16-18. put a 5/16 bolt long enough for full thread engagement into it and snug up. Fill with tap water. insert the threaded decapping just enough for full thread engagement, lock in with its lock nut. Put it into a zip-lock bag and through it into the freezer overnight.

 

[SheepDog]

Albany Mountain,
I have used that method to get stuck rounds out of a chamber but never thought to do it with a sizing die. Great thought!

 

[Barrel Nut]

I don't know if this will apply to your situation or not, but not long ago I had a case separation and the forward 1/2 of the .223 case stuck in the rifle chamber. I tried EVERYTHING to get it out; no joy. So I plugged the barrel, heated some chamber casting metal, and poured that into the chamber. After letting it harden for a minute, I taped out the metal plug along with the broken case by inserting a rod down the muzzle and giving it a light tap with a hammer. It was quick and easy.

You may or may not be able to make this trick work, but it might be worth a try. The trick is to get the metal to fill the case and flow forward of the neck area (if we're talking about a rifle chamber) to form a lock on the case neck lip.

Chamber casting metal is inexpensive and you can melt it with a good heat gun. It is also unlikely to harm your die like an EZ Out might.

 

[Hummer]

I haven't had a stuck case like that in maybe 25 years but in the first 25 years of reloading I had several and I got them out as follows:

Grasp the top of the decap rod with vice grips and while pulling upwards hard turn the grips and unscrew the rod from the expander ball till it moves and work it around so decap pin sticks out flash hole and pull it out.

Continue to unscrew the rod till it comes out and this leaves the expander ball inside the case.

Got another smooth side rod and turned a taper on one end that will go in the back of the expander ball a tad and place it in a arbor press and apply down force on the rod. The case will push right out and the expander being very hard will not deform.

I have used Imperial Sizing Die Wax for cases applied with fingers but found a much cheaper way to lube cases just as well.

Grease Auto and Artillery GAA, a synthetic tan colored military grease that can be had in 8 lb cans for about the price of two Imperial cans and 8 lbs will last you reloading about 120 years.

Another thing I do is I remove all my decap rods now as when you size your necks down and then pull it out the expander ball not only expands but stretches your necks longer.

I now expand necks with a different tool I made up that is pushed into the mouth of a FL sized case and expands it without the case moving forward and I get a much longer brass life. As well should I stick a case I just put a piece of drill rod down in and either tap it with a hammer or put it in the arbor press and push it out.

I have lived here since 94 and have generated 2 1/2 gallons of fired primers without a stuck case and very little neck trimming.

I also had custom chamber reamers made up by Manson Reamers and upon firing my rounds comply with what I refer to as the 222 principle. That means nothing moves over .002" on firing. The case mouth opening excessively, the shoulder going forward excessively nor the base of the case expanding.

I have one 30.06 case I have loaded 157 times and it is still waiting for more. It is not problem for me to get 90 reloads+ on 7.62 military cases.

 

[Steve Ladino]

I haven't had a stuck case like that in maybe 25 years but in the first 25 years of reloading I had several and I got them out as follows:

Grasp the top of the decap rod with vice grips and while pulling upwards hard turn the grips and unscrew the rod from the expander ball till it moves and work it around so decap pin sticks out flash hole and pull it out.

Continue to unscrew the rod till it comes out and this leaves the expander ball inside the case.

Got another smooth side rod and turned a taper on one end that will go in the back of the expander ball a tad and place it in a arbor press and apply down force on the rod. The case will push right out and the expander being very hard will not deform.

I have used Imperial Sizing Die Wax for cases applied with fingers but found a much cheaper way to lube cases just as well.

Grease Auto and Artillery GAA, a synthetic tan colored military grease that can be had in 8 lb cans for about the price of two Imperial cans and 8 lbs will last you reloading about 120 years.

Another thing I do is I remove all my decap rods now as when you size your necks down and then pull it out the expander ball not only expands but stretches your necks longer.

I now expand necks with a different tool I made up that is pushed into the mouth of a FL sized case and expands it without the case moving forward and I get a much longer brass life. As well should I stick a case I just put a piece of drill rod down in and either tap it with a hammer or put it in the arbor press and push it out.

I have lived here since 94 and have generated 2 1/2 gallons of fired primers without a stuck case and very little neck trimming.

I also had custom chamber reamers made up by Manson Reamers and upon firing my rounds comply with what I refer to as the 222 principle. That means nothing moves over .002" on firing. The case mouth opening excessively, the shoulder going forward excessively nor the base of the case expanding.

I have one 30.06 case I have loaded 157 times and it is still waiting for more. It is not problem for me to get 90 reloads+ on 7.62 military cases.

5/32 rat tail file until just cuts through the web

 

[jonbearman]

I have used a home made stuck case remover similar to rcbs and have never failed to get one out. One problem may be when tightening the screw if you don't grease or oil the threads it will rip the threads out in some cases. With the oil on the brass steel surfaces it should come out with ease. Drill your case with a 1/4 inch drill to get full engagement with a 5/16th's-18 tap. Then try with lube and I will bet you it comes out fairly easy. I use homemade Dillon spray lube using 2 oz's of pure lanolin oil with approx. 20 ounces of pure (99.5 alcohol get it through amazon or where ever) mix it up by shaking vigorously in a quality spray bottle and start spraying a coat on your case's and let stand till alcohol evaporate's. I have never stuck a case using this type of lube when sizing used cases of unknown origin.

 

[SheepDog]

I use a stud. I screw the stud into the drilled and tapped case and the use a nut and a pair of washers to remove the case. The threads don't turn in the brass so the are less likely to pull out.
i made it the first time I stuck a case in a die and I have only used it the one time. I have heard of people pulling the base off a stuck cartridge leaving the rest of the brass stuck in the die. Not sure what I would do with that.

 

[savagedasher]

Put a long .250 bolt down the neck of the case . Use some washer that just fit over the case head . Put the combo on a flat hard surface and hit firmly on the bolt with a hammer . Larry

 

[Albany Mountain]

Is the case still stuck??????

 

[Albany Mountain]

I guess we will never know