I put together a light weight varmint rig for walkabout varminting using a Rem model 7 action, Mcmillan edge hunter stock & No 4 contour fluted 24" barrel chambered in 6BRX. It's a fantastically accurate rig but it is very difficult to shoot as a result of the weight of the rig & the stock design. All of my shooting is done prone off bipod so were thinking a change to something like a Mcmillan A3 or A5 with edge fill simply to help give more control & a steadier hold with the improved stock design. Any other stocks I should be considering? I still want to keep the rig light but want a better proportioned stock to make for easier long range shooting of the bipod. Ideas?
Stock recomendations for prone varmint shooting?
- Thread starter Fordnutter
- Start date
Mcmillian stocks are great but if your looking for a beater stock so to say for varmint hunting try stocky stocks and check out the bell and carlson line. I have two of the B and C A2 model stocks and love them all I do as well is prone shooting off the bipod I have great control with it and there on the light side as far a weight. No need for bedding either all come with a one piece aluminum bedding block in them.
Hillbilly
http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-BELL-&-CARLSON-cln-Varmint-fdsh-Tactical/Categories
Hillbilly
http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-BELL-&-CARLSON-cln-Varmint-fdsh-Tactical/Categories
jonbearman
I live in new york state,how unfortunate !
Just out of curiosity,what problem are you having with your current stock exactly? I would think off a bipod with that mcmillan stock it would be very stabill. Does your bipod flex alot or something? I have shot the same stocks on other guns and had no real problems,but if you change to any other stock the rig is going to gain weight and reduce portability which is one thing you dont seem to want.
If you like stalking have you ever considered using a shooting stick (cross stick) with a light weight sportsmen's chair?
I used to use a bipod but switch to a shooting stick ten years ago and have never regretted it. I use a combination of stalking and posting up (for about 1 hour or so) then moving on. Having a comforatable chair that's easy to carry makes the outing so much more pleasant for me since I usually go for the entire day, dawn to dusk.
The reason I switched to a shooting cross stick is that I'm able to engage far more varmints since I can see more sitting than having to drop to the prone. Also, tics and poision ivy is a real problem on the farms where I hunt so sitting or laying in the hayfield is not a great idea. I carry a light weight alumimun sportsmen's chair and shoot from the sitting position resting my elbows on my knees and griping the sticks with my left hand. It's very steady and I can routinuely shoot minute and half of an angle 1.5 inches) 5 shots groups at 100 yards off the sticks. I should mention that I practice a lot with this system. Proficiency was not automatic.
I've made by own sticks out of 1/2'' diameter aluminum rod using 1/2'' heater hose for padding. I designed my own since most of the commerial sticks flex too much and destroy accuracy and are not long enough to shoot sitting off a chair.
If you interested I'll post details.
I used to use a bipod but switch to a shooting stick ten years ago and have never regretted it. I use a combination of stalking and posting up (for about 1 hour or so) then moving on. Having a comforatable chair that's easy to carry makes the outing so much more pleasant for me since I usually go for the entire day, dawn to dusk.
The reason I switched to a shooting cross stick is that I'm able to engage far more varmints since I can see more sitting than having to drop to the prone. Also, tics and poision ivy is a real problem on the farms where I hunt so sitting or laying in the hayfield is not a great idea. I carry a light weight alumimun sportsmen's chair and shoot from the sitting position resting my elbows on my knees and griping the sticks with my left hand. It's very steady and I can routinuely shoot minute and half of an angle 1.5 inches) 5 shots groups at 100 yards off the sticks. I should mention that I practice a lot with this system. Proficiency was not automatic.
I've made by own sticks out of 1/2'' diameter aluminum rod using 1/2'' heater hose for padding. I designed my own since most of the commerial sticks flex too much and destroy accuracy and are not long enough to shoot sitting off a chair.
If you interested I'll post details.
No problem with the stock at all! It's lovely & rigid...just ergonomical not the best choice for prone shooting with such a light rifle... even with a 16ounce trigger the slighest movement can move the crosshairs off target. I've considered that I may have to invest in a Jewell with say an 8 ounce pull to help. All my shooting done in the field is done with Harris Bipod upfront & a sniper bean bag at the rear. I were thinking that an A3 or A5 Mcmillan with the vertical pistol grip & palm closer to the trigger would allow an easier task of breaking the trigger with a minimum of torquing of the stock.
I will be building a dedicated heavy weight long ranger in the future (no subsitute for weight in the right places) so this is a stop gap in the mean time. I never dreamed in a million years that this light weight rig would be a serious 600yd varminter.
I will be building a dedicated heavy weight long ranger in the future (no subsitute for weight in the right places) so this is a stop gap in the mean time. I never dreamed in a million years that this light weight rig would be a serious 600yd varminter.
Fordnutter--I see you already use a sniper bag under the butt of the stock, and that is a GREAT idea.
Here's one of my varmint rigs. It has a Stiller Predator action with a .223 bolt face and 3/16" pinned lug and I added a Jewell trigger and an aluminum trigger shoe. It has a #6 contour stainless steel Lilja barrel chambered in .17 Remington. The barrel was finished at 26" and is fluted with 5/16" flutes. The stock is a Bell & Carlson tactical Medalist vertical grip model #2092 in Desert Tan with black webbing. I formed my own brass for this rifle using WW .204 Ruger brass and turned the necks a wee bit to fit the .201" chamber neck. The neck OD on my loaded rounds measure between .1965" to .1970", depending on the OD of the various bullets I use, giving me .0020" to .00225" of space all around the casing neck.
Sorry I got carried away describing my rifle ;D Anyway, I have a swivel model Harris 9 to 13 inch bipod on the front with notched legs and I added a Pod-Lock. I have an anti-cant level on the scope tube, which you can probably see just behind the back ring. The Pod-Lck sure helps keep the rifle level and I have the lock adjusted so it doesn't swivel very easily. The digital camo bag you see under the butt of the rifle is filled with Styrofoam beads and I bought it from a fellow who used to post on this Board. Sorry, but I can't remember his name. That bag is probably much like the one you say you use. It is a GREAT aid to me in keeping the rifle steady on those long-distance (and even short distance) prairie dogs. It isn't very heavy and has a carrying cord built right into it. VERY HANDY!!!
My rig is fairly heavy with the #6 contour barrel and heavy B&C stock and it is very easy to keep steady and on target. Before you buy a different stock, have you given any thought to adding some weight to the stock? That might be worth a try before spending big bucks on another stock.
Here's one of my varmint rigs. It has a Stiller Predator action with a .223 bolt face and 3/16" pinned lug and I added a Jewell trigger and an aluminum trigger shoe. It has a #6 contour stainless steel Lilja barrel chambered in .17 Remington. The barrel was finished at 26" and is fluted with 5/16" flutes. The stock is a Bell & Carlson tactical Medalist vertical grip model #2092 in Desert Tan with black webbing. I formed my own brass for this rifle using WW .204 Ruger brass and turned the necks a wee bit to fit the .201" chamber neck. The neck OD on my loaded rounds measure between .1965" to .1970", depending on the OD of the various bullets I use, giving me .0020" to .00225" of space all around the casing neck.
Sorry I got carried away describing my rifle ;D Anyway, I have a swivel model Harris 9 to 13 inch bipod on the front with notched legs and I added a Pod-Lock. I have an anti-cant level on the scope tube, which you can probably see just behind the back ring. The Pod-Lck sure helps keep the rifle level and I have the lock adjusted so it doesn't swivel very easily. The digital camo bag you see under the butt of the rifle is filled with Styrofoam beads and I bought it from a fellow who used to post on this Board. Sorry, but I can't remember his name. That bag is probably much like the one you say you use. It is a GREAT aid to me in keeping the rifle steady on those long-distance (and even short distance) prairie dogs. It isn't very heavy and has a carrying cord built right into it. VERY HANDY!!!
My rig is fairly heavy with the #6 contour barrel and heavy B&C stock and it is very easy to keep steady and on target. Before you buy a different stock, have you given any thought to adding some weight to the stock? That might be worth a try before spending big bucks on another stock.
Nice Rig you have their Silverfox! Love the paddock pizza too...those 204's look to do the job just nicely. Yes I too have found the "sniper bean bag" great to use in the field...now all my mates have one too. Looking at all the stock designs I think the McMillan A3 might be the go - relatively slim, nice vertical palm grip & fairly high cheek piece.
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