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timeout

Silver $$ Contributor
I'm gathering components for a mid range bench rest build. I need to make weight - 17 lbs. I would like to use a straight 1.250" barrel. The Kelbly TMBR stock is approximately 1 lb. 8 oz. and shold allow me to stay under 17 lbs. The Tracker 1000 is 3 lbs. 14 oz. PT&R has a Low-Boy Bench Rest model that is 3 lbs. I'm guessing the only way I can make weight is with the Kelbly TMBR. Another guess is that balance could be an issue with that stock and the 1.250" straight tube. In your experience, would the TMBR & 1.250 tube be a good match? Or should I go with the 1.250" down to .930" taper barrel which is approximately 3 pounds lighter? Thanks for your input!
 
timeout said:
I'm gathering components for a mid range bench rest build. I need to make weight - 17 lbs. I would like to use a straight 1.250" barrel.

IMO opinion, there is no good reason to use a no-taper barrel except for a heavy gun with other components (stock/barrel block/railgun config/etc.) chosen accordingly...

All you're doing with such a barrel in LG class is causing yourself problems, with likely no improvement in accuracy, and certainly a lot more stress on the action and barrel tenon. Taper the barrel, and your weight problem disappears. 8)
 
I've got a Bat B in a MBR stock with a 1.25 tapering to .920. 28 inches long with a NF BR scope and BAT rings. Weighs 16 lbs. 12 oz. Same gun with a 28 in. 1.25 straight weighs over 19 lbs.
 
Save the straight pipes for F-Open. You don't have the weight budget in Light Gun. The other components would have to be so light, the rifle would almost certainly have tracking problems.
 
The TMBR is very light in the but and would be very muzzel heavy. I had one with a bat b 1.53, 1.25 tapered to .930, 7 oz tuner, NF BR scope and added 22 oz to the but to get to 16.9. You could make weight but the balance point would not be good. Why do you think you need a straight barrel? What are you going to shoot with it?
 
That would a very nose heavy gun and most likely would not shoot free reciol or ride the bags well. Why handi cap yourself right out of the gate? Look to some winning rifles. Either the st1000 or PRT would be great with a Bat B and a HV barrel.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I first chose the straight pipe as perhaps heating slower when putting rounds down range fast and being advantageous to shorten and re-chamber until too short. When I looked closer at the weight, my mind was changing. I felt with the 1 lb. 8 oz. stock balance could be problematic. Your comments based on actual experience have shown me the error of my ways with the straight pipe. Time to make a change in the order. Thanks again!
 
timeout said:
Thanks for the advice guys. I first chose the straight pipe as perhaps heating slower when putting rounds down range fast and being advantageous to shorten and re-chamber until too short.

Maybe slow to heat up, and if so, slow to cool down. But as to being advantageous to shorten and rechamber, I don't think so. Figure you could set back the barrel once, before the rifling is toast after X number of total rounds through the barrel. A conventional heavy contour would easily allow that, as would many other tapers, esp. if you spec'd "straight for 5" and then taper to blah blah".
 

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