• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Stock finishing material

Matte finish or high gloss? Since Arrowood went out of business, True oil might be your best option for high gloss. I used to use Danish oil on my stocks. It’s a tung oil+? that gives a matte finish. Also for a matte finish, the old tried and true boiled linseed oil.
 
I'm old school. BLO, starting from clean sanded surface, massaged lovingly into the pores - over and over. 600 grit wet/dry paper to sand mud into the open pores. Takes about a week of daily applications, and leaning in the stove corner in the winter, or in the sun when it's warm.
jd
 
I'm old school. BLO, starting from clean sanded surface, massaged lovingly into the pores - over and over. 600 grit wet/dry paper to sand mud into the open pores. Takes about a week of daily applications, and leaning in the stove corner in the winter, or in the sun when it's warm.
jd

For handled implements and BLO... One coat a day for a week. One coat per week for a month, then monthly forever. My axe handles are real nice. :)
 
What is your preferred oil finish for a gun stock, BLO or Tung oil and why~?
mabie not preferred but i used some polyurethane i had on the shelf on a couple practice stocks. its cheap/ seals the wood well-no filling ect- just sanded to 400-- gives u kind of a cheap autoclear effect. someone should figure out the arrowood formula anscstart selling it again
 
For hunting guns I still prefer Tru Oil. but for my FTR, which arrived naked, I initially used Tru Oil, then sanded it and finished with a rattle can of 2K high gloss, 3 coats, sanding between and having painted some red accents on the grey/silver woodwork.
 
My test board, sanded to about 320 grit initially. Two coats so far, I’ve scheduled a coat every three days to get a good idea. Going for 8-10 coats.

Using refined linseed oil.


C111B03F-74EF-49B2-9CAA-D203BC8AD3A8.jpeg
AA6580E7-BE71-4384-9AB5-6BA093B19A4D.jpeg
 
For commercially destined stuff, a 2k top coat that fill grain and is tough as nails. Generally you need to buff it to get rid of the orange peel and get it to the sheen you want.

For maple, stain will good ole aquafortis (iron nitrate). Blush with heat and use whatever polymerized oil you want since it isn’t open grained like walnut and ash. Or stain same way and use 2k as above.
 
Last edited:
For commercially destined stuff, a 2k top coat that fill grain and is tough as nails. Generally you need to buff it to get rid of the orange peel and get it to the sheen you want.

For maple, stain will good ole aquafortis (iron nitrate). Blush with heat and use whatever polymerized oil you want since it isn’t open grained like walnut and ash. Or stain same way and use 2k as above.
I was discussing Iron nitrate with Speedy last week. After the conversation I have concerns about using it do to its ability to cause rust.
 
I was discussing Iron nitrate with Speedy last week. After the conversation I have concerns about using it do to its ability to cause rust.
Neutralize it with some baking soda if you wish but if blushed properly shouldn’t be an issue. It needs to be top coated. I’ve used it on countless flintlocks with no rusting issues.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,339
Messages
2,193,691
Members
78,845
Latest member
baglorious
Back
Top