polyIt’s a tung oil+?
I'm old school. BLO, starting from clean sanded surface, massaged lovingly into the pores - over and over. 600 grit wet/dry paper to sand mud into the open pores. Takes about a week of daily applications, and leaning in the stove corner in the winter, or in the sun when it's warm.
jd
mabie not preferred but i used some polyurethane i had on the shelf on a couple practice stocks. its cheap/ seals the wood well-no filling ect- just sanded to 400-- gives u kind of a cheap autoclear effect. someone should figure out the arrowood formula anscstart selling it againWhat is your preferred oil finish for a gun stock, BLO or Tung oil and why~?
Nice tip!An old stock maker taught me to use Gun Sav'R Pro Custom. I have not been disappointed and have gone back to it after trying others. Brownells 209 642 009
I was discussing Iron nitrate with Speedy last week. After the conversation I have concerns about using it do to its ability to cause rust.For commercially destined stuff, a 2k top coat that fill grain and is tough as nails. Generally you need to buff it to get rid of the orange peel and get it to the sheen you want.
For maple, stain will good ole aquafortis (iron nitrate). Blush with heat and use whatever polymerized oil you want since it isn’t open grained like walnut and ash. Or stain same way and use 2k as above.
Neutralize it with some baking soda if you wish but if blushed properly shouldn’t be an issue. It needs to be top coated. I’ve used it on countless flintlocks with no rusting issues.I was discussing Iron nitrate with Speedy last week. After the conversation I have concerns about using it do to its ability to cause rust.
That reminds of the Salt Cured stocks that were on some Brownings that caused a lot of rust problems.I was discussing Iron nitrate with Speedy last week. After the conversation I have concerns about using it do to its ability to cause rust.
Not even in the same universe....That reminds of the Salt Cured stocks that were on some Brownings that caused a lot of rust problems.