stock finish sheen question

[gotcha]

Hi guys, New here & refinishing an old walnut stock. I'm using Permalyn cut 50/50 w/ mineral spirits & sanding-in the finish to fill all the pores. Goal = smooth as marble finish. After two sand-in & dry coats I'm almost there. All of the stocks I've done to date (mostly new Laminates) were finished to a high gloss using Brownells 5F compound as final step. I'd like this one to have a finish somewhere between satin & Hi-gloss. More of a sheen really. Does anyone have ideas as to accomplishing this? I'm looking for controllability IE: being able to reduce the gloss in stages 'til I hit that "perfect for me" point and, of course, uniformity of sheen from end to end of stock. Any tips would be most appreciated. Thanx, Dale

 

[tinkerer]

Well, IF you were using tung oil, you can get either high gloss or satin finish, and MAYBE even mix the 2 for in between. From what I understand, high gloss is normal, satin has to be made from it and cut back to acheive final finish.

YGMV.

Larry
Tinkere

 

[itchyTF]

I would suggest getting some different grits of pumice and experiment first on another piece of wood.

 

[doc gordon]

after 2000 grit pumice or wet n dry paper fom a auto paints dealer.dont buff!

 

[gotcha]

Thanks guys! I didn't realize pumice came in various grits & I'm a Southerner. Has anyone used rubbing compound successfully to knock down gloss on a polyurethane finish? ................... BTW where can you buy pumice other than Brownells?

 

[doc gordon]

my apologies,i dont think pumice comes in grit sizes.a .good luck satin finish urethane might be what you need,i airbrushed and spraypainted for a living for 50 years and the new arosol cans by min-wax is exellant.follow instructions *dont get in a hurry

 

[itchyTF]

I used both Rottenstone and Pumice but don't remember where I got them. I think the rottenstone came from Brownells but I'll have to check on the pumice. Here is one place (not where I got mine) -
http://www.constantines.com/pumicepowder.aspx

An article you might find helpful -
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/rub.htm

The Pumice brand is H. Behlen but I don't remember where I got it, but this is their catalog -
http://www.hbehlen.com/Behlen_Catalog.pdf (pg 11)

You could look for a distributor here -
http://www.hbehlen.com/distributor.asp

 

[gotcha]

Doc, I'm the one that should be apologizing. I was trying to do a play on words w/ grit as in abrasives and grits as in HOMINEY. Groaner : ............... Pumice available @ Constantines in two levels of abrasion ( Thanks itchy!) Brownells suggests mixing w/ linseed oil & rubbing w/ felt pad to achieve desired sheen. Brownells also offers "original" stock rubbing compound which is supposed to yield a soft gloss/sheen from tru-oil which is basicly what Permalyn is. So, it appears my choices are pumice or "original" stock rubbing compound. I'm leaning toward the rubbing compound........ Wonder if anyone has used an automotive rubbing compound to cut back shine?

 

[tunered]

Auto compound is way to fine, it will on;y polish to a high gloss.

 

[pdhntr]

Hi guys, New here & refinishing an old walnut stock. I'm using Permalyn cut 50/50 w/ mineral spirits & sanding-in the finish to fill all the pores. Goal = smooth as marble finish. After two sand-in & dry coats I'm almost there. All of the stocks I've done to date (mostly new Laminates) were finished to a high gloss using Brownells 5F compound as final step. I'd like this one to have a finish somewhere between satin & Hi-gloss. More of a sheen really. Does anyone have ideas as to accomplishing this? I'm looking for controllability IE: being able to reduce the gloss in stages 'til I hit that "perfect for me" point and, of course, uniformity of sheen from end to end of stock. Any tips would be most appreciated. Thanx, Dale

Dale,

Don't take this wrong, but you are going in the wrong direction.

If you want a finish between satin and gloss, you have to start with a finish that is satin and rub it "up" to semi-gloss. Not the other way around.

A gloss finish can be taken down to semi-gloss, however, you will likely see scratches that will make the overall finish look less than professional, as you have to use an abrasive that is coarse enough to cut the gloss. Coarse abrasives will cut the gloss, but leave deep scratches that will easily be seen. Then you have to use finer abrasives to get rid of the scratches. Trust me, you end up almost back where you started, but still with scratches that can be seen in the finish.

It sounds like you have the base down. Once the pores are filled, I would let the stock sit for some time to see if the finish you are using "pulls in". The pores may show up again in a month or so. Then finish with a satin and rub it up to what you want.

Or, if your finish is dry already, spray on a couple of coats of satin poly and rub it up to what you want.

The latter is what I do. I use Minnwax Spar Urethane in the spray cans. The green ones. Very, very good stuff and gives a durable and beautiful finish. I shoot the satin and rub it up to what I like.

Jim

 

[pdhntr]

 

[pdhntr]

Also, rottenstone with linseed oil may work.

The finish you are putting on (now) has to be pretty dry though, otherwise you end up pulling the filler out of the pores.

Jim

 

[Pyscodog]

pdhntr-Thats a great looking stock! Can I ask where it came from, who made it? Its really nice.

 

[pdhntr]

Sorry, just noticed your post.

I built that. I have been making stocks for many years. That is my thumbhole design with the trigger guard moved back into the grip area. It is very comfortable unlike most thumbhole stocks where you have to reach with your finger to get to the trigger.

It is a laminated stock, made with some stripped walnut I got from a wisconsin tree.

Until recently, I made of few custom stocks a year, but the demand got out of hand and the hobby that I enjoyed became a chore, and I get more than my share of stress from my job. I don't need any more from outside.

I may in the future make a couple stocks and offer them for sale for certain actions, but the custom work is out for now.

Jim