Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Those little thin pillars like AG and mcmillan uses i just drill out before i ever start
Stock bedding question…
- Thread starter Judd
- Start date
A pillar should be an integral part of the stock. If it is not, it needs to be removed and re-installed or replaced. WH
I'd love to see pictures please.
AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
Amen. This is the latest big name stock I did that came with the pillars installed. As soon as I touched it with the end mill, the pillar fell right out....absolutely no bonding material anywhere around the pillar. Why anyone trusts those molded in pillars makes me shake my head......
But it got corrected.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
There it is.
Judd
Gold $$ Contributor
The second one just popped right apart. Lots of good info in this thread and especially an honorable mention… @AlNyhus awesome info, the little inserts are a game changer on getting everything centered. During mock up with them I could tell something was dragging and binding…it was my recoil lug area needed opened a bit more. Not so sure I would’ve noticed without the inserts binding everything up, it was just a small amount but with those forcing things be centered, little things become obvious things.
Just another thank you to those who helped, the bedding is starting to look as well as it functions.
Just another thank you to those who helped, the bedding is starting to look as well as it functions.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I've posted this many times, but this always works. Make the inside of the pillars 5/16" and use these Delrin sleeves that are 5/16" O.D. and 1/4" I.D. Glue the sleeves into the pillars, coat the inside of the sleeves, pillars and the outside of the guide pins with release agent. Then bed it.
Crack the guide pins loose after 10-12 hrs. but don't remove them. When you're ready to remove the barrelled action, take a hammer and give each guide pin a good rap. Don't use the barrel like a hillbilly with a jack handle and lever it back and forth until it comes out, That's a sure fire way to tweak the bedding you just did, particularly the tang and recoil lug mortise area. Straight up is what you want to do.
Remove the sleeves with a drill and then run a 5/16" drill bit through the pillars to remove any residual bedding compound. The sleeves both center the guide pins in the pillars and allow for clearance around the action screws.
How any stock mfg. can in good conscience just press knurled pillars into a stock with no compound around them makes me shake my head......
What do you do for the eustachian?
make them from an old 6mm barrel.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I love cutting 304.
Do you fit them so they're in full contact with the pillar, and glue'em in?
I've done them both ways and I don't know which works best yet. I fit them for a very slight gap and seat them with a little Devcon to fill the gap, or just leave them free so there is a little tension when torqued. There doesn't seem to be a measurable difference at the target for me, but then I'm far from the best shooter in the world. Luckily my shooting buddy (the one I built the pictured rifle for) is pretty good and maybe he'll notice something and we'll settle on one or the other.
AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
No...it does matter. -Al
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Lay it on me. Touching or not touching?
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Never any exposed pillar. The bedding shrinks and it doesnt. Right here is the only test you need to confirm that after proper shrinking time
AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
Last edited:
I make my escutcheons from 304 stainless with a slight bevel. It's purely cosmetic, but I like the looks of it.
I need one, I sent a private message.I make my escutcheons from 304 stainless with a slight bevel. It's purely cosmetic, but I like the looks of it.
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