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Sticky bolt sometimes.

1. Measure the base of a fired case and then resize the case and measure again. The resized case should be at least .002 or more smaller. You are

Before the Internet and before some reloaders became obnoxious the acceptable case head expansions was .00025" for new factory over the counter ammo. What that means is the .002" you listed is 4 times the acceptable case head expansion and then there is that other thing. There is an outside chance you are talking about the case above the case head but you did say
Measure the base of a fired case
.

And I wonder why a reloader would not measure the diameter of the case head before and then again after firing and then again after sizing. I mention this because I am not a fan of working brass; especially the case head.

I am not the fan of crushing the case head, My case heads are not supported, when I upset the case head it increases in diameter , it gets shorter between the cup above the web and case head and the primer pocket increases in diameter with the flash hole and then there is that part that confuses reloaders; SO! Rather than upset them I will not go into the part most reloaders can not keep up with.

F. Guffey
 
Ok before i go to the range tommorow i wanted to run one more set of numbers buy you guys. i had chronographed all my loads so far and the two most constistant with low es are 37.5grs of re15 with the 50gr dogtowns and the 50gr vmax. herea where i dont understand, tthe same everything except bullet and thr 50gr dogtown is averaging 3680fps and the 50gr vmax is averaging 3890fps! whats with the 200fps diffrence? everything is the same down to number of reloads on the brass.
 
Ok before i go to the range tomorrow, I wanted to run one more set of numbers buy you guys. i had chronographed all my loads so far and the two most consistent, with low es are 37.5grs of re15 with the 50gr Dogtowns and the 50gr V-max. Here's where I don't understand, the same everything except bullet and the 50gr Dogtown is averaging 3680fps and the 50gr V-max is averaging 3890fps! whats with the 200fps difference? Everything is the same down to number of reloads on the brass.

Many shooters have a blind trust in chronographs - "If it says 3,267, then it must be 3,267."

It ain't necessarily so.

Some chronos are notoriously inaccurate and some guys set-ups are not consistently repeatable.
 
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I try to set it up excatly 15 feet and dead level and mark the same height but cloud conditions were shifting. is there a way to check consitancy? Ive wondered about that due to weather conditions? i just bought this one a couple months ago so im learning.
 
Many shooters have a blind trust in chronographs - "If it says 3,267, then it must be 3,267."

It ain't necessarily so.

Some chronos are notoriously inaccurate and some guys set-ups are not consistently repeatable.

I was shooting a .308 over a chrono about a month ago. Everything was going fine, and I was getting 2,650 +/- consistently, when out of the blue came a reading of 6,657.

The recoil didn't seem too bad. :eek:
 
Allright i made it to the range with the new lapua brass and the sticky bolt is gone. i settled on 37.5gr of re15 and groups are great but out of 20 rounds i have 1 that has a barley noticeable half moon but the primer looks great. i might back it down to 37 grains? the ammo and gun are outside in 45 degree weather. So in your guys experience if they shoot good today how much will i have to back the load down in the summer for praire dogs? ive heard some guys with re15 drop theres .5 grains.
 
Allright i made it to the range with the new lapua brass and the sticky bolt is gone. i settled on 37.5gr of re15 and groups are great but out of 20 rounds i have 1 that has a barley noticeable half moon but the primer looks great. i might back it down to 37 grains? the ammo and gun are outside in 45 degree weather. So in your guys experience if they shoot good today how much will i have to back the load down in the summer for praire dogs? ive heard some guys with re15 drop theres .5 grains.

Glad to hear that you seem to have solved your original problem! You won't know for sure until you've reloaded your Lapua cases a few times. Did you measure your cases before and after firing?

It's the temperature of the powder that determines its burning rate. You can easily simulate "summer" by warming your loaded ammo with a hot water bottle inside an insulated container. Use a thermometer to get an accurate read on the water temperature. Give the ammo plenty of time (an hour or so) to equilibrate to the desired temperature.

When actually hunting PDs, if you get the barrel hot and let an unfired round cook in the chamber, you can get even higher pressures. So don't do that. :rolleyes:
 
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Ok thats kinda what i thought i took 10 rounds and put them on the dash and got them to about 100degrees and they shot fine no diffrence in poi or pressure signs. i guess i have 100 rounds of old hornady that need to get recycled lol. thanks again for the help guys. the couple of peices that a very very slight mark i looked closer and i dont think there from the ejector hole but from manufacturer because some of the other new ones have the same mark. thank.
 
↓↓↓↓↓ It is 3rd rate.

Winchester is very good... or treat yourself well... get Lapua, and go first cabin.


I had issues with Hornaday ammo sticking in my 22 Hornet.. Sent it in for testing and they said everything was A-OK. But they sent me 2 NEW boxes of ammo..Kept the old
 
I looked closer when i got home and some did have slight ejector marks. Think i figured out why some are getting a slight mark the new cases shoulder is .008" farther back than the fired case.
 
I looked closer when i got home and some did have slight ejector marks. Think i figured out why some are getting a slight mark the new cases shoulder is .008" farther back than the fired case.

You have headspace and pressure problems.... Learn to manage both or they will plague you forever.
 
Guffey,
Why do you come here if it is only to tell people they cannot keep up with you? Your posts lack value if you do not provide useful information.
BTW what is your basis for the .00025 number? I am calling you on it because it has no basis in any well known literature and not even you can reliably make measurements of a half a tenth with equipment normally used at home or at the range. So what is the real precision you measure at home and at the range. All of us that cannot keep up with your towering intellect would like to know.


Before the Internet and before some reloaders became obnoxious the acceptable case head expansions was .00025" for new factory over the counter ammo. What that means is the .002" you listed is 4 times the acceptable case head expansion and then there is that other thing. There is an outside chance you are talking about the case above the case head but you did say .

And I wonder why a reloader would not measure the diameter of the case head before and then again after firing and then again after sizing. I mention this because I am not a fan of working brass; especially the case head.

I am not the fan of crushing the case head, My case heads are not supported, when I upset the case head it increases in diameter , it gets shorter between the cup above the web and case head and the primer pocket increases in diameter with the flash hole and then there is that part that confuses reloaders; SO! Rather than upset them I will not go into the part most reloaders can not keep up with.

F. Guffey
 
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Yeah im dropping it to 36.5 and it shot good last time with the old brass. so why is the shoulder on the new brass so much shorter? i cant find a sammi spec for the shoulder. theres a notivle diffrence in the new brass to the once fired as far as the neck/shoulder area.
 

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These were 2 random cases. the top is fired bottom is new resized unfired. i was reading that on initial firing new brass the excess headspace can cause the case to slam into the bolt face leaving marks but then once fitted to your chamber it should stop if not its high pressure.
 
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These were 2 random cases. the top is fired bottom is new resized unfired. i was reading that on initial firing new brass the excess headspace can cause the case to slam into the bolt face leaving marks but then once fitted to your chamber it should stop if not its high pressure.
Yuck! Ugly thumb! Lol
 
Yeah I'm dropping it to 36.5 and it shot good last time with the old brass. so why is the shoulder on the new brass so much shorter? I cant find a SAAMI spec for the shoulder. There is a noticeable difference in the new brass to the once fired as far as the neck/shoulder area.

"I cant find a SAAMI spec for the shoulder."

SAAMI specs:

Min Chamber 1.5749"
Max Chamber 1.5849"
Min Case 1.571"
Max case 1.578"

So, you can see that the difference between a min case and a max chamber is... 14 thou!

You have a long-ish chamber.

Do NOT push the shoulder back on your fired brass, cuz you will get head separations.
 
These were 2 random cases. the top is fired bottom is new resized unfired. i was reading that on initial firing new brass the excess headspace can cause the case to slam into the bolt face leaving marks but then once fitted to your chamber it should stop if not its high pressure.

The brass does not "slam" into the bolt face - it gets pushed by the pressure, which it appears that you have too much of ;) ;) ;)
 
10-4 dropped the load to 36.5, stinks that this is the max with this combo only around 3650fps. any thoughts on a reliable chronograph?
 

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