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Starting from scratch

Hey guys, I am getting ready to tool up for 243 win and was wondering what you all would get concerning dies and brass.

I am almost tempted to go with Win brass, but I know Lapua is probably better quality, there is a huge cost differnece between them.

Also, I need a set of Redding dies for this caliber. I for sure want a micrometer style seater, but Im not sure what I want for a sizing die set. I have done some reading about the bushing dies, but they seem like a huge PITA. How much would I loose buy going with a "standard" neck and Fl sizing die set?
 
What are your goals for the new .243? If you think a bushing die is a huge PITA I am not sure how to approach helping you. Nothing is reloading is all that difficult. You just need to be able to do a little learning and follow directions.
 
The bushing dies are not that hard to work with. Here is what I do when I get one. Order a bushing that gives you the sixing you want and run with it. Then if you want to try a different one then get a new one and try it. You can change out a bushing in less than a min. It is hard to work a fixed die to change neck tension.
 
Quackaddict said:
1) I am almost tempted to go with Win brass, but I know Lapua is probably better quality, there is a huge cost differnece between them.

2) Also, I need a set of Redding dies for this caliber. I for sure want a micrometer style seater, but Im not sure what I want for a sizing die set. I have done some reading about the bushing dies, but they seem like a huge PITA. How much would I loose buy going with a "standard" neck and Fl sizing die set?

1) Winchester brass works fine. I use it, no complaints.

2) Absolutely get a micrometer seater. Your statement about bushing dies is puzzling....where'd you get the idea they're difficult? They're not.
 
Boyd, My goal is to run a 70 grain pill as fast as I can push it while still maintaining Sub MOA accuracy. 1/2 MOA loads are the goal. If that means I use a 62, 70 , or 75, so be it. The rifle will be the Mid range rifle in my lineup, point blank to 250 and effective to 450ish. Anything farther I have a 308 that works wonders.

My comments about the bushings being a PITA are from what I gather on the internet, I have been told that if you have a large chamber and the brass expands more than .006 you should use a two step process with two bushings, I have also been told that the "right" bushing select may not give you what you want, ie springback requiring a tighter bushing to give the correct neck tension. You also need multiple bushings if you ever wanted to use another type of brass.

This is just what I have heard. I have no actual experience with them, so if I am wrong please tell me your experiences, I would appreciate it...
 
Bushing dies are the only way to go. Dont have to use an expander button, so inside of necks don't need lubed and case necks will be much straighter. Eliminating expander also makes it easier on you and your press while you lower the ram after resizing. Just measure a loaded rounds neck, subtract .003 to .004, and buy that bushing ($12-$20 ea.). I have never heard of anyone having to use 2 bushings for .006 clearance in chamber.
 
The bushing dies also give you flexability in neck tension (when useing different lots/brands of brass).
 
If you get a bushing die you will still need a fl sizing die to bump the shoulder back from time to time unless you like hard bolt close. You could buy a micrometer set from Forster & have them to hone out the fl die to your spec & remove the expander ball. This works well & should save you some money.------ Joe
 
redding has both a FL bushing die and a Neck sizing set that includes the body die, I have heard you can essentially neck size with the FL die by turning the die out 1/4 turn, any truth to this?

Its looking like the 3 die set with the Comp seater, neck bushing die, and body die is the way to go.
 

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