Advice on Redding Micrometer dies

[CamTheBam]

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking about taking the plunge and buying a fancy set of Redding micrometer dies. I have it on good authority, that these dies are a worthwhile investment.

To date I've been using full-length resizing dies, and I don't have any experience of neck-sizing or bushing dies.

Am I right in saying that you don't get a Redding full-length sizing die, with a bushing and a micrometer?

So far, I've only been able to find:

2 die sets
• neck-sizing bushing die with micrometer
• seating die with micrometer

3 die sets
• neck-sizing bushing die with micrometer
• seating die with micrometer
• body-sizing die

Assuming I go for the 3 die set, would I have to run my fired brass through a body-sizing die, and then decap and neck-size via the micrometer die? What does the micrometer on the neck-sizing die actually control?

Many thanks for all your help!

Cam.

 

[Howland]

I picked up the Redding Premium Series Deluxe die set. It includes a;
- full length sizing die for sizing the body and setting the shoulder that includes a neck sizing mandrel on the decapping pin,
- a neck (only) sizing die that doesn't decap, size the body or set back the shoulder, and
- a seating die.

Only the seating die has the micrometer adjustment for precisely controlling seating depth. You actually could do that with a non-micrometer seating die but if you want to control seating depth to the thousanths, initial setup can be a chore and adjustment would have to be repeated each time you switched bullet style, weight or if you work up loads for more than one rifle. Even if you set it up for a single load for one rifle, you could have a handful of loaded rounds that need to be pulled and reload. I chose the set with the micrometer adjustment on the seating stem because I have three .308 rifles to develop loads for. I'm only at the planning stage, but I expect three different headspace measurements and three different seating depths, but hopefully with just a single projectile. I might use shims under the cartridge to adjust for three different shoulder/headspace dimensions or I might pick up some competition shellholders, but the micrometer adjustment seating die will be less time consuming and offer repeatability when going back and forth between loads.

I think it set me back $112 & change. Are you certain that it is the neck sizing die that has the micrometer adjustment? If so, I have no idea what dimension that would control.

I've always decapped first, then cleaned prior to sizing, but you can leave the decapping pin on the full length die set if you don't think cleaning primer pockets will gain a measurable benefit. Leaving the decapping pin on the full length die set with the neck sizing mandrel does all three steps, decapping, sizing case body/setting the shoulder and sizing the neck. The neck sizing die is for when you only want to size the neck without sizing the body or setting the shoulder for your headspace. For bolt actions, I've always neck-sized only with excellent results but there are quite a few folks here with more experience than I whose opinion is that even loading for one bolt action chamber, it is eventually necessary to set the shoulder back every few firings. I'll be measuring the headspace dimension and full length sizing at each firing just for the sake of uniformity of every single round, even for the bolt action.

 

[eric n]

The micrometer on top of the neck bushing die controls how much of the neck you size (Bushing dies don't size all of the neck). I have one and think its a waste of money. A regular neck bushing die does the same thing.
I do use my necksizer occasionally for quick bushing changes while developing loads and the initial couple of firings to let the brass expand closer to the chamber dimension so I can set my die for headspace , after that its all full length sizing. In truth, I could easily get by without a neck sizer.
Search neck sizing vs F/L sizing on here and you will get all of the reasons why F/L sizing is better.
Microtop adjusters are nice on any seating die, they make things quick and easy.

 

[Milo 2.0]

Download Redding's catalog off their site:
http://www.redding-reloading.com/images/stories/2017Pressinfo/2017_Redding_Catalog.pdf

Then go to Midway and try find the products you're looking for, good selection. I do not think the comp bushing die comes in a 2 die set, it's a 3 die set, and you can buy a carbide decapping assembly separate for it.

This is my opinion only, but for every 2 sets of these Redding sells, their upper management opens a crown royal black and toasts the idiot who paid for one. I bought the set 15 yrs ago and still wonder what good it is, buy a type s die set and be happy.
Type S FL die set.

 

[hrlincoln]

If you're interested in Redding...

Redding Type S Match (2 die set)

FL neck bushing die...(don't really need the micrometer model)
Micrometer top seating die

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049443/redding-type-s-match-bushing-2-die-set

 

[Barlow]

I use several Forster fl die's with their micro adjusting seating dies. Have the fl die's custom necked honed if you desire it. Works for me. My 2 cents. Barlow

 

[SS427]

The Redding neck sizing micrometer die is a waste of money but looks cool. Far as I could ever determine, there is no benefit in being able to adjust in .001 increments the amount the bushing sizes the neck. Get a Type S FL bushing die instead.

The Redding micrometer seating die is worth the money. So is the Forester version of the same thing. You may want to consider the Wilson seating dies as well - but that requires an inexpensive arbor press.

 

[stifffingers]

I use several Forster fl die's with their micro adjusting seating dies. Have the fl die's custom necked honed if you desire it. Works for me. My 2 cents. Barlow

There is an advantage to having a bushing dye over a custom honed fl dye. If you ever decide to anneal your cases you will have to send the custom dye back and have it honed another .001. Annealed brass will not spring back and you will end up with a .001 smaller sized neck than you desire. You can check this fact out for yourself or read the FAQ page on the AMP website.

 

[Barlow]

There is an advantage to having a bushing dye over a custom honed fl dye. If you ever decide to anneal your cases you will have to send the custom dye back and have it honed another .001. Annealed brass will not spring back and you will end up with a .001 smaller sized neck than you desire. You can check this fact out for yourself or read the FAQ page on the AMP website.

I loaded a lot of 6 Dasher with this set up, and annealed every third shot. I don't recall having any neck tension issues, but I can't positively rule out there may have been slight differences at times. I did get a K&M mandrel to take my NT from .002 to .001 on the advise of one of the members here, as he said his rifle liked less tension. Mine did not, so I stayed with .002. I just shot our local club matches and did very well with it. To buy another Forster die and have it honed to a tighter OD would be preferable to me than any bushing die. I tried bushing dies three times, 2 Redding and 1 Forster and had runout issues with all of them. But to each his own. Good luck, Barlow

 

[stifffingers]

I loaded a lot of 6 Dasher with this set up, and annealed every third shot. I don't recall having any neck tension issues, but I can't positively rule out there may have been slight differences at times. I did get a K&M mandrel to take my NT from .002 to .001 on the advise of one of the members here, as he said his rifle liked less tension. Mine did not, so I stayed with .002. I just shot our local club matches and did very well with it. To buy another Forster die and have it honed to a tighter OD would be preferable to me than any bushing die. I tried bushing dies three times, 2 Redding and 1 Forster and had runout issues with all of them. But to each his own. Good luck, Barlow

I think you misunderstood my post, you would have to send the dye back and have it opened up another .001. If I didn't anneal my brass for my 6PPC I was using a .258 bushing and that was what my sized necks became. After I started annealing after every firing I use a .259 bushing to get my .258 sized neck. When you anneal, the necks loose all their spring back...Take a case you didn't anneal and run it thru your custom dye, the one you get good results with. Now take a case you just annealed and do the same. Measure both necks, you will see you are using more neck tension than you realize.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

You need a fl bushing die and a micrometer seater to be set up for all situations. Your best money would be to send your fired cases to whidden to have a set made. Probably cheaper than redding and damn sure a better fit

 

[Barlow]

I think you misunderstood my post, you would have to send the dye back and have it opened up another .001. If I didn't anneal my brass for my 6PPC I was using a .258 bushing and that was what my sized necks became. After I started annealing after every firing I use a .259 bushing to get my .258 sized neck. When you anneal, the necks loose all their spring back...Take a case you didn't anneal and run it thru your custom dye, the one you get good results with. Now take a case you just annealed and do the same. Measure both necks, you will see you are using more neck tension than you realize.

I understand completely the different springback variances between newly annealed case necks, and those that are not. I've been at this for 40 plus years. Barlow

 

[stifffingers]

I understand completely the different springback variances between newly annealed case necks, and those that are not. I've been at this for 40 plus years. Barlow

In your post you said "To buy another Forster die and have it honed to a tighter OD would be preferable to me". That is the opposite of my discussion. It would need to be opened up .001. That is why I replied with an explanation, mostly for anyone that caught the err. I'm sure you are more knowledgeable than I and am truly sorrow if I offended you.

 

[Fotheringill]

I have the 3 die Redding set.
I also have the Lee Collet neck sizing die.
For about $24, I would suggest you first purchase the Lee collet neck sizing die.

BTW- The Redding Competition bushing neck die is never going to resize the entire neck.

 

[Barlow]

In your post you said "To buy another Forster die and have it honed to a tighter OD would be preferable to me". That is the opposite of my discussion. It would need to be opened up .001. That is why I replied with an explanation, mostly for anyone that caught the err. I'm sure you are more knowledgeable than I and am truly sorrow if I offended you.

No apology necessary. I actually think we agree on the subject. Best of luck, Barlow