Started using Boretech Eliminator and.......

[fyrewall]

The Bore Tech stuff contains Ethanolamine (MSDS) that reacts with copper thus blue patches. A test to determine that the brass jags would cause "blue patch after blue patch" would be to expose the brass jag to a wet patch with the Bore Tech stuff for the same time it was inside the bore, like did it turn blue? My guess is that trails of copper fouling in the barrel caused the blue patches and this would show up with a bore scope.

We all have our ways to clean rifles - I like Gun Slick Foaming Bore Cleaner, it contains the same stuff as Bore Tech, Ethanolamine. I allow the foam that has been gushed into the barrel to remain over night to attack copper and other metals. Following that I push it out with a patch then scrub bore with nylon or bronze brush dipped in full synthetic 0-20W motor oil which is real slippery and has detergent qualities to bind and float away the black stuff dislodged by the brushing. On occasion I use JB. Carbon is next to inert and there are very few chemicals that would dissolve it without dissolving your barrel.

What constitutes the black stuff is worthy of another discussion. Whatever don't use stainless steel brushes and wear nitrile gloves.

"A test to determine that the brass jags would cause "blue patch after blue patch" would be to expose the brass jag to a wet patch.... ", not having any Bore Tech stuff I did just that with blob of Gun Slick Foam and Hoppes's 9 Black. The results are shown:



As shown the 1st shot was at 14:17, the 2nd at 14:19, the 3rd at 14:22. As seen there is blue stuff on the patches. At least 3 minutes elapsed between the application and removal. Would the patch be exposed to the solvent the entire 3 minutes inside the bore? Probably yes. Would the reaction between the solvent and brass jag producing the blue stuff detract from the efficacy of the solvent on the copper fouling? No. Would the blue stuff on the patch prevent an accurate evaluation of how well the solvent was working on the copper fouling? yes. Was I wrong in stating that "trails of copper fouling caused the blue patches" ? not entirely provided copper fouling was present.

"We all have our ways to clean rifles" Gun Slick Foam is my choice because it is a foam and not subject to as much evaporation as a water based liquid. Upon pushing the over night foam out of my rifle barrel the resulting mess is dark blue-black glop. The black stuff is probably powder and primer residue with some copper fouling preventer like tin. I leave the Gun Slick foam inside the bore for about 8-10 hours. Then scrub out the bore real good with a nylon brush & syn 0-20W.

Drench some of the Bore Tech stuff on patches & jags and feed back some photos.

I hope to have a bore scope soon to play around with the copper fouling and black stuff.

 

[fyrewall]

Put a drop of eliminator on the top of your barrel and let it sit for a week

How much of the drop would coat the surface of entire rifle bore of normal length 22-26 inches and what would be the evaporation factor over a week.

 

[DngBat7]

How did you remove copper prior to the conversion?

Wipe out products

 

[jepp2]

Wipe out products

I used those for a while and they did a decent job of removing the copper. I have always used the proof positive with the Eliminator, and just wouldn't have expected patches to turn quite blue from just the jag.

 

[ChrisA]

On my precision rifle, I use BoreTech rod, jag, brushes, Eliminator and C4. I get "blue patch after blue patch..." from my Krieger barrel. I usually clean every 300-350 rounds though.

I'm not overly concerned if I never get a white patch. I just want to keep a heavy carbon deposit from forming and get the bore fairly clean of powder and copper fouling.

Chris

 

[K22]

As others have said, you need to use jags and rods that do not contain any copper parts - copper parts produce false positive results (i.e. blue color on patches not attributable to copper in the bore). I use Dewey copper eliminator rods and jags.

The only reason I use the two part Bore Tech System (i.e. C4 followed by C2) is so I can use a bronze brush for the carbon removal phase of cleaning. I may be wrong but I believe that the increased mechanical action of the bronze brush is more effective in removing carbon than a nylon brush. C4 will react with the bronze brush so after brushing I immediately run three patches of C4 to push all the loose carbon and C4 deposited from the brush out of the bore then let the "clean" C4 sit in the barrel the prescribed dwell time. I soak the brush in mineral spirits which stops the reaction of C4 with the brush.

After the C4 dwell time I dry patch then run three patches of C2 through the bore and let sit for the prescribed dwell time and then dry patch. I've found that the C2 is very effective in removing copper. For stubborn copper I use the more lengthy nylon brush procedure Bore Tech prescribes for C2 or a JB treatment.

I'm a relatively recent (about 2 years now) convert to Bore Tech products and very impressed with their performance and lack of offensive odor.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

How much of the drop would coat the surface of entire rifle bore of normal length 22-26 inches and what would be the evaporation factor over a week.

doesn't matter. let it evaporate and see what happens.

 

[Prose]

As to the original question... I’ve never gotten copper out with The bore tech copper solvent after using eliminator. Eliminator does it all.

 

[fyrewall]

Sounds like this Bore Tech stuff is great, all we need now is more than anecdotal feedback.

 

[Clancy]

Put a drop of eliminator on the top of your barrel and let it sit for a week

It would be much easier if you just told us. I’m genuinely curious, been using the stuff for a couple of years without any complaints.

 

[Richard Coody]

Well i too use the boretech products. Also losso. Pleased with the results. As for leaving it on my barrel. Don't think that is a reccomended procedure.

That said, like most things in shooting and reloading, there are lots of ways to skin this cat. Beware the poster that claims his is the only way. Even the experts don't agree

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/barrel-cleaning-debate/

 

[Dusty Stevens]

It would be much easier if you just told us. I’m genuinely curious, been using the stuff for a couple of years without any complaints.

Itll rust a stainless barrel pretty quick. Ive got some that the drippings from the muzzle rusted the crown up pretty good. Its been discussed around here a lot. Itll also take the coating off of dewey rods and it ruined a bore tech rod the first day i had it

 

[divingin]

I soak the brush in mineral spirits which stops the reaction of C4 with the brush.

Boretech products are water based - I suspect you would get a decent deactivation by rinsing your brush with water. Wouldn't dry as quickly though.

 

[Clancy]

Itll rust a stainless barrel pretty quick. Ive got some that the drippings from the muzzle rusted the crown up pretty good. Its been discussed around here a lot. Itll also take the coating off of dewey rods and it ruined a bore tech rod the first day i had it

Interesting. I wonder why it hasn’t rusted mine? I do run a patch of oil and clean the chamber and muzzle. Maybe that’s the key?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Interesting. I wonder why it hasn’t rusted mine? I do run a patch of oil and clean the chamber and muzzle. Maybe that’s the key?

Thats the key.

 

[Jennb]

Have used boretech for a number of years. Compared it to many different products before deciding it was all I needed. Eliminator does the job without any of the carbon or copper specific cleaners. I have been known to leave it in a stainless barrel for days without any ill effects. Even after days in a barrel it is still damp coming out but I leave my rod in the barrel limiting air flow.

Use it with confidence and dont worry

 

[KenOath]

Now we just need another company to come out with a similar and just as effective product to give BT some competition so I don’t have to pay $75 a bottle for it!!!! Gets expensive when you run 4 to 5 barrels....

 

[fyrewall]

The Bore Tech stuff as per MSDS, OSHA compliance (only for employers-employees) Haz Chem -used or stored in work settings, right to know
This stuff contains a variety of agents - some very poisonous, some OK for Kosher approval (food)

The common ingredient is Ethanolamine, this is common to many house hold surface cleaners and also dissolves copper. It is time dependent in that it takes time for it to work - exposure & evaporation are important considerations. It is rated as "A" for no reaction to stainless steel. Its concentration is less than <25% and usually less than <5% in the Bore Tech stuff. Relatively benign but don't eat it.

Propylene glycol is added to extend drying time - thus increasing exposure by limiting evaporation - this stuff is harmless and is Kosher OK for food use.

Tetra potassium pyrophosphate is added to bind or cling to particles (chelating & dispersing agent) & buffer agent - dumbs down acids - also harmless - used in foods.

Monobutyl either - relatively harmless house hold cleaner ingredient.

The bad stuff

Diethylene glycol is added to dissolve nitro cellulose - this stuff has been known to kill people every year from ingestion (eat), but it can be absorbed thru skin especially thru wounds (flea bites from rodents?). This is why I wear nitrile gloves while using any of this stuff.

4-Isopropeneyl is added to oxidize copper, fouling remover also poisonous - kidney failure.

All this stuff are common industrial chemicals and can be had in quantities from 1/2 pound to 55 gallon drums - American industry at work - cheap & abundant chemicals.

The Bore Tech stuff is 65% - 85% water and the rest industrial chemicals

None of this stuff will rust a normal stainless steel rifle barrel unless prolonged exposure, high humidity, and high temperatures.

OSHA - right to know - for non-tech folks

 

[22DASHER]

I’ve left it soaking in SS barrels for several days at a time. Never ever seen this result in any loss of accuracy and especially not rust. Oh yeah, and I have shot moly in several of them... the experts on here also say that’s going to do more harm then good too..... so yeah

 

[rammac]

I've used BoreTech for well over 10 years on every gun I own; blued, stainless, Cerakoted, whatever and I've never had rust problems, but then I follow instructions and use common sense and run a few dry patches down the bore after cleaning it and then one slightly oiled patch as the last step to properly maintain my firearms.