Squib Removal Question

[Doug Casner]

Ive got a set of brass punches I use for pistols. Got some old brass and aluminum cleaning rods I use on rifles. Use something softer than steel. Doug

 

[DaveTooley]

That is a good way to cause a bulge in your barrel. Just push it back out, if it is not far up from the chamber, with a wooden dowell, from the muzzle end.

I've seen/dealt with some real train wrecks where people have tried to use a wood dowel. It spits on the point of the bullet then they drive it in further thus causing another obstruction which is even more difficult to deal with than the stuck bullet.
If I was out in the field I'd consider carrying a 12" piece of 1/4" brass. Drop that in the muzzle and it will easily knock out any bullet lodged in the throat by lack of powder. Good for dropping in from the chamber end to remove a dirt plug at the muzzle.

 

[searcher]

I would not try shooting a squib load to clear that bullet. While it might work - the pressure dynamics work entirely different and could have unintended consequences. The brass rod is the way to go. Wood dowels are fine for lead pistol bullets - but as others noted - can be sketchy when removing pointed, jacketed rifle bullets.

 

[Ernest T]

I just had one today in my 45 Colt. For hand guns, I get a bolt that looks like this. The unthreaded part has to be long enough to push the bullet out of the barrel and about 2/3-3/4 the diameter of the bore. I cut the threads off so I keep some of that radius where it transitions from no threads to threaded, then file the radius smooth. I wrap it in heat shrink or tape and use it to tap out the round. Normally, I point the gun barrel down and swing the gun to hit the head of the bolt on an anvil instead of using a hammer to hit the bolt head. It took a lot to get it moving, but once it did, it came out pretty easily.

The offending bullet. It was only a couple of inches into the bore so it must have been a very light load. Totally my fault. I checked out the bore with a camera and it looks like I got it out with no damage.

 

[Fairchaser]

I’m sort of dumbfounded at the number of instances that im reading here where the case was not filled with powder. When I load powder, that’s all I’m doing and when I’m done, I look at each case to see that it has powder and looks like the correct amount before seating bullets. So far, it hasn’t happened to me and I hope it never does. Seems like there’s a procedural issue.

 

[6MMsteve]

I had a issue when I was fire forming brass in a 7-300 whby, forgot to add unique to the case was using cornmeal will it popped, primer only, and I just raised the bolt up not knowing it sealed the case and had pressure, it about broke my hand, the bolt shot back with lots of pressure, scared the shit out of me, corn meal was lodged half way down the barrel. I'm not gonna say what I did after that

 

[SteveOak]

Okay, most reloaders will experience the dreaded "forgot the powder" once in their life resulting in a squib.

My question for the collective knowledge base here on removal is this:

Why not use a lightly charged case similar to a blank round to "push" the stuck projectile from the barrel? Use some cotton to keep powder in place, which should incinerate upon firing, and blast it out.

Logic seems to indicate that it should be completely safe and do no damage to the barrel.

Curious to know if anyone has tried this, if so was it successful, or if it may actually be dangerous.

Yes, I have done it successfully. No issues.

 

[Old Navy]

I had a issue when I was fire forming brass in a 7-300 whby, forgot to add unique to the case was using cornmeal will it popped, primer only, and I just raised the bolt up not knowing it sealed the case and had pressure, it about broke my hand, the bolt shot back with lots of pressure, scared the shit out of me, corn meal was lodged half way down the barrel. I'm not gonna say what I did after that

Sounds like you did have some Unique in there.

 

[6MMsteve]

Sounds like you did have some Unique in there.

wish it would of had some, but it was primer only the cm got stuck about 14 inches down the barrel packed hard. I knocked it out as a bullet basically and dinged the barrel, found out how bad at Neil Jones Shop, he bore scoped it, we were on our way to Org Penn 1000 and stopped by therethis was in 86 when I first started shooting 1000yds

 

[big5ifty]

Why not use a lightly charged case similar to a blank round to "push" the stuck projectile from the barrel? Use some cotton to keep powder in place, which should incinerate upon firing, and blast it out.

Logic seems to indicate that it should be completely safe and do no damage to the barrel.

That was my conclusion at the time as well.

I then managed to clear a bore obstruction caused by a squib in my .375 H&H by adding a few grains of pistol powder to a primed case behind some dacron.

I started with just two grains, had to increment the charge a few times, then the bullet popped out at about 6 grains. What I found interesting at the time was how quiet it was. not much louder than the firing pin strike.

 

[JSH]

Do not, I repeat do not use a wood dowel ever, don’t ask me how I know.
Brass is ok as long as it is of proper size. Steel is better, once again as proper size. Size being as large an OD that will fit down the bore freely. A wrap of tape if you are afraid of messing up rifling.

 

[jackieschmidt]

We must differentiate between a “squib load” and simply forgetting to put powder in a case..

A “squib load” means there was just enough powder to push the bullet a certain distance down the barrel, but not all the way out. That presents a real problem, getting it out without damaging the barrel.

I have more than once forgot to put powder in a case, usually at a Match at the most inopportune time. However, if this results in the bullet actually leaving the case mouth and getting stuck in the lands, it is not much different than extracting a loaded round and having the bullet stick due to the shooter using considerable “jam” In his seating depth.

You simply take the jag off of the rod and tap it out.

The OP was asking about a bullet stuck in the throat because of a round with no powder.

 

[divingin]

This bullet should not be seated very firm into the barrel, so should push out the rear with a rod from the muzzle. I like to use something non-metallic but you need a dowel smaller than 1/2" which is a common size.

With no powder, it must have not have been pushed into the rifling. A picture is worth a thousand words, or two thousand of mine...The rest of us can play what-if all day long...

My understanding is that you should not use a wooden dowel. Wood will tend to split as it is pounded against the tip of the bullet and jam between the ogive and barrel. For flatter bullet shapes, it may split further up and jam up by compressing onto itself. A gunsmith friend of mine has had multiple instances that required drilling through the wood to ease the radial pressure and get the wooden plug out before working on the bullet.

Steel is not an ideal material for a rod, as it will be close to the hardness of the barrel, which raises the likelihood of marring the expensive bit.

I've always been told that a close fitting brass rod, with a hollow tip to nest over the bullet, is the correct tool to try. Though I suppose you can go wrong with that as well, depending on how jammed up the bullet is. (I do recall helping clear a squib from a .45 1911 - that took a surprising number of solid blows from a framing hammer on a brass rod to get the bullet moving. Don't remember the specifics, but I was holding the barrel, and definitely feared for my hands.)

How far the bullet moves, I think, depends on the firearm being talked about, and the specific components involved. I've personally seen both rifles and pistols with squibs that range from "remaining in the case" to "a couple/few inches into the bore".

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

I've always been told that a close fitting brass rod, with a hollow tip to nest over the bullet, is the correct tool to try.

Do you carry a lot of brass rods like that when you go to the range? It sounds like you'll need one for each bullet profile...

While serving as RSO in the past, my main concern is disarming the firearm. I honestly am not very concerned about splinters being jammed between the bullet and lands. I have just always avoided metalic as it would cause damage to the rifling/lands possibly.

I will say that I was always amazed at how many people don't actually know how to disassemble their firearm, or rely on someone else that is not at the range with them that day. It happens frequently.

 

[big5ifty]

A “squib load” means there was just enough powder to push the bullet a certain distance down the barrel, but not all the way out.

Technically, a squib is a failure of the powder column to properly ignite, common in the blackpowder age when powder became wet, hence the term 'damp squib'.

These days any event that leaves a bullet in the barrel is understood to be a squib load.

 

[limpy]

Okay, most reloaders will experience the dreaded "forgot the powder" once in their life resulting in a squib.

My question for the collective knowledge base here on removal is this:

Why not use a lightly charged case similar to a blank round to "push" the stuck projectile from the barrel? Use some cotton to keep powder in place, which should incinerate upon firing, and blast it out.

Logic seems to indicate that it should be completely safe and do no damage to the barrel.

Curious to know if anyone has tried this, if so was it successful, or if it may actually be dangerous.

I knew a guy who blew up a browning bar trying to shoot the bullet out

 

[jackieschmidt]

Technically, a squib is a failure of the powder column to properly ignite, common in the blackpowder age when powder became wet, hence the term 'damp squib'.

These days any event that leaves a bullet in the barrel is understood to be a squib load.

I should have said……”just enough energy to push the bullet a certain distance down the barrel”.

 

[divingin]

Do you carry a lot of brass rods like that when you go to the range? It sounds like you'll need one for each bullet profile...

While serving as RSO in the past, my main concern is disarming the firearm. I honestly am not very concerned about splinters being jammed between the bullet and lands. I have just always avoided metalic as it would cause damage to the rifling/lands possibly.

I don't recall having a squib since the 80's, so the stuff I carry is aimed more for others' problems. The problem with wood splintering is not so much the splinters themselves, but that the splinters get forced between the barrel and bullet, and jam things up even more.

My pistol box has 3 sizes of 8-12" long rods. I think they're .1875", .250", and .375" (intended for .22 to .45 cal); all have square cuts both ends. In the truck, I have rifle length rods in (I think) .125" (some guys were having a lot of problems with .17HMR/Mach2 when I got these), .1875", and .250" (intended for .17 thru .308 though you could do larger); also with square ends.

You only need the end treated if you get a *really* stuck bullet. It allows you to go to town on the exposed rod and impart force on moving the bullet without driving the rod between the barrel and bullet nose. If it doesn't move with somewhat moderate force, I suggest a visit to a smith.

I carry a lot of emergency repair stuff (like these rods, and assorted tools) that is intended more for fixing other peoples' problems rather than mine. For instance, I carry an AR A2 front sight adjustment tool in both rifle and pistol boxes; I haven't shot an AR in probably 5 years (and mine are scoped anyway. I don't even own anything with an A2 sight post.)

Oh, and unrelated and way off-topic: Did Konocti Harbor close down their concert venue? I seem to recall they used to have some pretty good shows.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

My pistol box has 3 sizes of 8-12" long rods. I think they're .1875", .250", and .375" (intended for .22 to .45 cal); all have square cuts both ends. In the truck,

I guess I could keep one of those, but it's always something that happens that I'm not prepared for. Although I don't serve as RSO these days, the Parks and Recreation closed down the range my previous club used...

I carry a lot of emergency repair stuff (like these rods, and assorted tools) that is intended more for fixing other peoples' problems rather than mine.

Good for you, not too many people that can help people at the range. As I said, my biggest issue was people that just had no clue about their firearms. Also should be noted in this thread, it is VERY common for people to fire more than one squib, where multiple bullets will be jammed. I was taught that if anything seems sketchy, call a 24 hour gunsmith and let the person work it out to have them disarm the firearm for them. There is no obligation to assist someone that fired a squib in their firearm.

Oh, and unrelated and way off-topic: Did Konocti Harbor close down their concert venue? I seem to recall they used to have some pretty good shows.

Yes, closed a few years ago, however, the resort was sold to someone in the last couple years for $10M. An amazingly cheap price until one considers the septic needs to be redone. There is an amazing amount of lake front footage. My property only has 90', the resort must have at least a mile, if not more. That is a big piece of land.

There is rumors that concerts will start again, but honestly, it's pretty apparent they ran into the septic issue right away...I stayed there with my wife and kids about 22-23 years ago, it was pretty musty inside.

 

[Steel Mover]

If you have a shop, this is common fare at the shop, at least weekly, along with stuck patches and broken dowels, etc. I do not use soft metal or wood. I use a strong old WWI German made solid steel cleaning rod with tape wrapped at three points to keep it perfectly centered, the ends are square cut with the edges broken or rounded slightly. It takes relatively little force to tap the projectile out in the direction it was going, if lodged in the barrel fully. I just have a light weight leather mallet for the primer only shots, to tap the bullets back, it works even to crush a case in a revolver when it is necessary. The trick is to be dead centered with a snug fit with the tape and have a flat tipped hard rod that does not bend or flex. I get enough use to make one for rifles and one for pistols and revolvers, If it helps you, good luck.