Squib Removal Question

[Konocti's Wigwam]

Siezed before the bolt closed, extractor pulls the rim off and now there's a live round wedged tight in the chamber. Depending on how hard the shooter tried to close the bolt determines how tight it's wedged in there.

I think he may have been able to get the bolt closed, and did fire. Just that there was no powder in the case, AFAICT. OP, please correct me if I'm wrong. This bullet should not be seated very firm into the barrel, so should push out the rear with a rod from the muzzle. I like to use something non-metallic but you need a dowel smaller than 1/2" which is a common size.

With no powder, it must have not have been pushed into the rifling. A picture is worth a thousand words, or two thousand of mine...The rest of us can play what-if all day long...

 

[markm87]

Related question.

In the past 16 years I've had 10-20 223 rounds with no powder. The primer goes off but the bullet has always remained in the case. But why? Not complaining, just wondering why.

Neck tension runs ~ 3/thousands; bullets are all 69 - 77 grains.

Same here. I had an empty .223 round a month or two ago. I thought the primer was bad. Took it home and pulled the bullet. GOOD primer, No output charge. Bullet never budged.

 

[DShortt]

I think he may have been able to get the bolt closed, and did fire. Just that there was no powder in the case, AFAICT. OP, please correct me if I'm wrong. This bullet should not be seated very firm into the barrel, so should push out the rear with a rod from the muzzle. I like to use something non-metallic but you need a dowel smaller than 1/2" which is a common size.

With no powder, it must have not have been pushed into the rifling. A picture is worth a thousand words, or two thousand of mine...The rest of us can play what-if all day long...

I'm sorry, I've apparently thrown the thread topic off. All I meant to point out is that I'd rather deal with removing a squib bullet than removing a live round that was wedged in a chamber due to resizing errors.

My apologies.

 

[qldreloader]

Once I was in the middle of nowhere shooting pigs when I had this happen with a .243. Primer only load pushed bullet into the throat. No cleaning rod and many hours to walk back to car and then drive back home.

I'm NOT recommending this but I pulled the bullet on another round using a steel fence post and tipped out enough powder to fill a fired .22lr case three times and then chambered the powdered case in behind the stuck bullet. Fired it remotely using some paracord. Checked bore was clear and fired 2 more properly loaded rounds remotely and then shot a 3 shot group at 100 yards which was zeroed and under 1MOA. Shot lots of pigs that afternoon.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

I'm sorry, I've apparently thrown the thread topic off. All I meant to point out is that I'd rather deal with removing a squib bullet than removing a live round that was wedged in a chamber due to resizing errors.

My apologies.

No, not at all. Was just meaning to say, none of us really know exactly what the rifle looks like, what exactly happened with the bolt, etc...unclear how far that bullet is wedged into those lands...

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

Once I was in the middle of nowhere shooting pigs when I had this happen with a .243. Primer only load pushed bullet into the throat. No cleaning rod and many hours to walk back to car and then drive back home.

I'm NOT recommending this but I pulled the bullet on another round using a steel fence post and tipped out enough powder to fill a fired .22lr case three times and then chambered the powdered case in behind the stuck bullet. Fired it remotely using some paracord. Checked bore was clear and fired 2 more properly loaded rounds remotely and then shot a 3 shot group at 100 yards which was zeroed and under 1MOA. Shot lots of pigs that afternoon.

Was someone holding your beer when you did that?

 

[DShortt]

Once I was in the middle of nowhere shooting pigs when I had this happen with a .243. Primer only load pushed bullet into the throat. No cleaning rod and many hours to walk back to car and then drive back home.

I'm NOT recommending this but I pulled the bullet on another round using a steel fence post and tipped out enough powder to fill a fired .22lr case three times and then chambered the powdered case in behind the stuck bullet. Fired it remotely using some paracord. Checked bore was clear and fired 2 more properly loaded rounds remotely and then shot a 3 shot group at 100 yards which was zeroed and under 1MOA. Shot lots of pigs that afternoon.

That's a gamble I'd have turned down but obviously it worked out for you.

 

[DShortt]

No, not at all. Was just meaning to say, none of us really know exactly what the rifle looks like, what exactly happened with the bolt, etc...unclear how far that bullet is wedged into those lands...

Ah. I understand.

 

[DGP4]

I bought a 36" 1/4" copper rod to push squibs out. works a lot better than a cleaning rod.

 

[JB10]

I have seen this removed 2 times but with a fully charged case. Both times were rifle cases. Placed round in vertically and muzzle pointed slightly up in safe direction. Worked both times. Learned this from a guy shooting 40 years longer than me. I still did not feel saafe doing it but it worked, and no was not my reloads. Was a buddy of mine that was with me.

 

[Bob3700]

U can go to most big box stores like Lowe’s etc. and they sell brass rod in various diameters and lengths. Use one of these to knock the bullet out and save ur cleaning rod.

 

[DShortt]

U can go to most big box stores like Lowe’s etc. and they sell brass rod in various diameters and lengths. Use one of these to knock the bullet out and save ur cleaning rod.

Or put a couple of wraps of 1" masking tape around a steel rod of the appropriate diameter. 1" apart if you wrap perpendicular. Same thing pretty much.

 

[Bill K]

That is a good way to cause a bulge in your barrel. Just push it back out, if it is not far up from the chamber, with a wooden dowell, from the muzzle end.

Okay, most reloaders will experience the dreaded "forgot the powder" once in their life resulting in a squib.

My question for the collective knowledge base here on removal is this:

Why not use a lightly charged case similar to a blank round to "push" the stuck projectile from the barrel? Use some cotton to keep powder in place, which should incinerate upon firing, and blast it out.

Logic seems to indicate that it should be completely safe and do no damage to the barrel.

Curious to know if anyone has tried this, if so was it successful, or if it may actually be dangerous.

 

[Old Navy]

Once I was in the middle of nowhere shooting pigs when I had this happen with a .243. Primer only load pushed bullet into the throat. No cleaning rod and many hours to walk back to car and then drive back home.

I'm NOT recommending this but I pulled the bullet on another round using a steel fence post and tipped out enough powder to fill a fired .22lr case three times and then chambered the powdered case in behind the stuck bullet. Fired it remotely using some paracord. Checked bore was clear and fired 2 more properly loaded rounds remotely and then shot a 3 shot group at 100 yards which was zeroed and under 1MOA. Shot lots of pigs that afternoon.

I knew a gunsmith many years ago that did that several times.

 

[DocBII]

Good day,

Doesn't matter. If the bullet doesn't fall out after case extraction, or a live round, do the following:

1. Remove bolt, assumption it's a BA Otherwise, make sure the round will fall out without any obstructions, such as the BCG (example only) on an AR.
2. Remove anything which may impinge on the primer.
3.a. If squip, tap on the gently tap on bullet from the muzzle with rod (lots of ways to to see if it falls out. Not hard enough to mess up the threads.)
3b. If live round, pour your favorite friction/thread unlocker (PBblaster, Kroil, etc) in from the muzzle, stand vertically for a day or two.
4a. Using rod with an adapter you don't care about screwing up, preferably brass, beat upon the squip until it falls out.
4bi. You have to be careful with this one, assuming a live cartridge. I assume no responsibility for you, your customer or any other malfeasance or ignorance.
4b.ii. Fill the barrel with about 1-2 inches of water above the bullet in the round.
4c. Let sit long enough to the DA contemplate the error of his ways.
4d. Attempt to tap out the round with a rod designated to the problem

Not for amateurs
DocBII,

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

I think this is a foolish thing to do. Why risk ruining the barrel and doing extreme damage to yourself. Take it to a gunsmith. The money you spend may save you a lot of grief.

 

[6BRA]

In 40 years I've never loaded a round without powder...I'd say get rid of the progressive press and open your eyes.
Pressure spike would be my concern on firing out.

 

[rockhound78]

Do NOT use a wooden dowel. It can easily break and get jammed in the bore, and then you have real problems. I use a brass rod (actually have a couple) I got from a welding supply. 3/16", 1/4" and a 5/16"

 

[Kracken McGraw]

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1017766159?pid=456092
Bore-tech makes this knock out set.

 

[GuitarmanNick]

Once I was in the middle of nowhere shooting pigs when I had this happen with a .243. Primer only load pushed bullet into the throat. No cleaning rod and many hours to walk back to car and then drive back home.

I'm NOT recommending this but I pulled the bullet on another round using a steel fence post and tipped out enough powder to fill a fired .22lr case three times and then chambered the powdered case in behind the stuck bullet. Fired it remotely using some paracord. Checked bore was clear and fired 2 more properly loaded rounds remotely and then shot a 3 shot group at 100 yards which was zeroed and under 1MOA. Shot lots of pigs that afternoon.

First, I appreciate your response and honesty. Seems like you have confirmed that it can be done safely and cause no damage which was the question. Thank you very much, sir.

We are all a product of our conditioning and programming and may be why the majority questioned my logic after the initial post. We have all been taught that a rod is the way to go, all of our lives.

Firearms have come a long way in the last 100 years with better designs and use of stronger materials which may allow for using some different methods today, than what has been the historic norm.

In the few instances(only once with my reloads) when I have had to clear a squib, using a rod and some lubricant worked as recommended by the majority.

Only posed the question because someone I know told me they could not remove one and had taken their rifle to a gunsmith. Knowing that there is a wait and an expense in doing that, I was trying to come up with an alternative that would be safe.

As for the story about the black powder shotgun,...it is comparing apples to oranges and not relevant, IMO.
Smokeless powder shotgun barrel walls are much thinner than those of rifle barrels because the pressures are much lower.
Black powder shotgun barrels in general are weaker than smokeless shotgun barrels.The injured party broke every rule of common sense by transporting it in the muzzle down position and fired it with the full powder charge without checking the load.
A simple check with the rod would have saved him and the gun.
In my area and most others I have hunted, road hunting is illegal. Sounds like the guy in the story may have been doing just that unless he had some type of special permit because of a disability.
Either way, I would stay away from him while he is handling weapons of any kind.