Spiders Rule, 4-Jaws Drool

[boltfluter]

My little 4 jaw that I made that fits in place of my collet holder bull nose. Just tap with the dead blow hammer and get to work. Very small, nicely balanced, and really nothing to grab you or your clothes. Gaines me about 3" over a full size 4 jaw for shorter barrels. Has to be driven out as the tapers are dead nuts. Great little tool and has never slipped on me in 20 years. And yes, I have made some very heavy cuts just to see if I could get it to slip. Never has!! Great mini 4 jaw.
Paul

 

[B Nettesheim]

My little 4 jaw that I made that fits in place of my collet holder bull nose. Just tap with the dead blow hammer and get to work. Very small, nicely balanced, and really nothing to grab you or your clothes. Gaines me about 3" over a full size 4 jaw for shorter barrels. Has to be driven out as the tapers are dead nuts. Great little tool and has never slipped on me in 20 years. And yes, I have made some very heavy cuts just to see if I could get it to slip. Never has!! Great mini 4 jaw.
Paul

Holy crap that’s a good idea!!
It is so much easier to dial in stuff the closer you are to the spindle bearing

 

[INTJ]

My little 4 jaw that I made that fits in place of my collet holder bull nose. Just tap with the dead blow hammer and get to work. Very small, nicely balanced, and really nothing to grab you or your clothes. Gaines me about 3" over a full size 4 jaw for shorter barrels. Has to be driven out as the tapers are dead nuts. Great little tool and has never slipped on me in 20 years. And yes, I have made some very heavy cuts just to see if I could get it to slip. Never has!! Great mini 4 jaw.
Paul

That is a GREAT idea!!

 

[ridgeway]

My little 4 jaw that I made that fits in place of my collet holder bull nose. Just tap with the dead blow hammer and get to work. Very small, nicely balanced, and really nothing to grab you or your clothes. Gaines me about 3" over a full size 4 jaw for shorter barrels. Has to be driven out as the tapers are dead nuts. Great little tool and has never slipped on me in 20 years. And yes, I have made some very heavy cuts just to see if I could get it to slip. Never has!! Great mini 4 jaw.
Paul

That's a good idea!

Maybe add two brass tipped jack screws thru face to break the taper.

 

[tobnpr]

^^^
Is that an MT5? What were you able to get for an ID?

On backplate thickness (or lack thereof)- that's where the threaded spindle shines- no stickout

 

[boltfluter]

^^^
Is that an MT5? What were you able to get for an ID?

On backplate thickness (or lack thereof)- that's where the threaded spindle shines- no stickout

I believe it is an MT5. I believe it is at least 1.3" as a 1.25 shank is no prob. I can measure it if you want . Just let me know.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

^^^
Is that an MT5? What were you able to get for an ID?

On backplate thickness (or lack thereof)- that's where the threaded spindle shines- no stickout

I machined my threaded backplate to where the spider screws barely clear the spindle nose. Cant get any closer to the bearings

 

[GenePoole]

I might have 3/4" from the threads.

 

[ridgeway]

The tough thing I have with the short, small diameter spiders is turning the spindle by hand when dialing it in. I may make a larger diameter handwheel to attach so its easy to turn.

 

[BuffaloBill]

A VFD wired with a jog push button is handy for positioning.

 

[ridgeway]

A VFD wired with a jog push button is handy for positioning.

I run a vfd and got a jog button. Not practical when dialing in a barrel. But it does get used very often though...

 

[skeeljc]

If you are just doing a few chambers it is hard to beat soft aluminum pads and a 4 jaw chuck.

 

[Henryrifle]

If you are just doing a few chambers it is hard to beat soft aluminum pads and a 4 jaw chuck.

View attachment 1402240

Yes. That is how I setup now, and it works fine. I like the idea of a spider to get me closer to the headstock on my inexpensive lathe, but was worried about holding the workpiece and being able to hand turn the chuck for 'dialing-in.'

It's an interesting topic to be sure. After procrastinating for several barrels on assembling my chambering flush system and realizing the valuable time savings it created, the spider does seem like something that offers marginally faster setup, and, as such, piqued my interest.

Looks like the TBAS is the way to go for chambering but it is the opposite of getting closer to the headstock and, in my case, like putting Ferrari decals on an old Yugo.

Again, interesting topic and great to gain some insight into what others are doing...

Henryrifle

 

[LVLAaron]

I took the jaws off my 4 jaw and use the aluminum shims directly on the "internal" jaw. Saves two inches. I've added some shape to the shims so they fit the contour of the barrel a little better.

 

[INTJ]

If you are just doing a few chambers it is hard to beat soft aluminum pads and a 4 jaw chuck.

View attachment 1402240

I was totally happy doing it that way until I started doing barrels at work and using an inboard spider. Like I said on my first post, the 4 Jaw seems very slow and clunky now. That said, when I was doing three barrels a year it wasn't a big deal.

 

[INTJ]

Yes. That is how I setup now, and it works fine. I like the idea of a spider to get me closer to the headstock on my inexpensive lathe, but was worried about holding the workpiece and being able to hand turn the chuck for 'dialing-in.'

It's an interesting topic to be sure. After procrastinating for several barrels on assembling my chambering flush system and realizing the valuable time savings it created, the spider does seem like something that offers marginally faster setup, and, as such, piqued my interest.

Looks like the TBAS is the way to go for chambering but it is the opposite of getting closer to the headstock and, in my case, like putting Ferrari decals on an old Yugo.

Again, interesting topic and great to gain some insight into what others are doing...

Henryrifle

I think the TBAS is really a larger lathe solution.

 

[tobnpr]

I like some reference to keep track of which pair I’m dialing towards zero. As I rotate the spindle, I can easily loose track of the position I was working on. If a person were careful enough, no mark would be necessary I suppose.

I get it... I know the vast majority work one at a time and spin to tighten low/loosen high and keep spinning till they get it right. I've always worked both/opposing sides at the same time, nothing to keep track of there...

 

[BuffaloBill]

I get it... I know the vast majority work one at a time and spin to tighten low/loosen high and keep spinning till they get it right. I've always worked both/opposing sides at the same time, nothing to keep track of there...

Maybe as I gain experience, will have to try that method!

 

[INTJ]

I always take the lathe out of gear when dialing in, or else put it in the highest gear

 

[jackieschmidt]

I admire all of the inventive ways fellow craftsmen come up with to dial in barrels.

But strictly from a Machinist point of view, wouldn’t a Set True Chuck be a more practical option?