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Spider on a mini lathe

Is it possible to add a spider to mini lathe? Is it feasible to use a mini lathe and a spider to face off the barrel shoulder on a M1 Garand barrel to get it to time to the receiver. The spindle hole will not accommodate the fat portion of the barrel, but the skinny part would go through. I am thinking a spider might work. This work is not that critical, I've seen others use a long cheater bar to time the barrel.

If even practical to do, are there any spiders for the mini lathe out there for sale or maybe someone would make?

Thank you.
 
It can be done for sure. Dial barrel in, turn off your lead screw and lock half nut to keep carriage locked and use the compound to feed in. Take small cuts and feed the cross slide slow and you will be fine.
 
Bamban said:
Erik,

Thank you.

Now, I need to find someone who can make a spider for that little guy.

You can make a bushing that fits over the barrel and inside the spindle bore. This will center the barrel and keep I from whipping. I know you will give up some flexibility and it will not be perfect, but it will be very close (depending on how concentric the bore is on the barrel). The best part is you can make that bushing out of aluminum in your mini-lathe.
 
Bamban said:
Is it possible to add a spider to mini lathe? Is it feasible to use a mini lathe and a spider to face off the barrel shoulder on a M1 Garand barrel to get it to time to the receiver. The spindle hole will not accommodate the fat portion of the barrel, but the skinny part would go through. I am thinking a spider might work. This work is not that critical, I've seen others use a long cheater bar to time the barrel.

If even practical to do, are there any spiders for the mini lathe out there for sale or maybe someone would make?

Thank you.
Which end of the head stock do you want the 'spider' for, the chuck end or the 'other' end? And then support the over hanging part with the 'steady'? Does the small end of the barrel stick all the way through the head stock?
 
shortgrass said:
Bamban said:
Is it possible to add a spider to mini lathe? Is it feasible to use a mini lathe and a spider to face off the barrel shoulder on a M1 Garand barrel to get it to time to the receiver. The spindle hole will not accommodate the fat portion of the barrel, but the skinny part would go through. I am thinking a spider might work. This work is not that critical, I've seen others use a long cheater bar to time the barrel.

If even practical to do, are there any spiders for the mini lathe out there for sale or maybe someone would make?

Thank you.
Which end of the head stock do you want the 'spider' for, the chuck end or the 'other' end? And then support the over hanging part with the 'steady'? Does the small end of the barrel stick all the way through the head stock?


Thank you.

The skinny end of the barrel can stick out past the head stock, the spindle bore is 3/4 inch. I am thinking about hanging a spider on the chuck end to hold the bigger diameter part so I can face off the barrel shoulder. On the other end past the spindle I really do not know what would be best, graft a steady rest to support the hanging part or graft another spider.

I've never done anything like this, I am open for any suggestions.
 
Nez, when I was between machines I needed to shave a fal barrel shoulder. All I had availible was my emco unimat watchmakers lathe. What I did was grip the threaded shank with the three jaw ant run the barrel in the steady rest at the end of the bed. I successfully shaved .005 off the shoulder which was all I needed to make it time. I wouldn't go much more than that with a machine that small but it can be done
 
To all the responders, thank you. I appreciate the help.

I will re-install the 4 jaw chuck, I had to remove it in favor of the 3 jaw chuck since I am just using the lathe to work on brass. I still remember how PITA is the 4 jaw for someone who ain't got a clue how to to index a simple gauge pin efficiently.


Nez
 
Erik Cortina said:
Use the 4 jaw to index barrel and use a bushing on the outboard side to keep it centered.
He will still have 6"-6.25" of barrel sticking out from the chuck. Too much, IMO. Grip the barrel near the transition from the "small" part to where it up-sets to 3/4" and place a live center in the end sticking out of the chuck. There won't be enough in the spindle bore to 'whip'. You don't need to turn very fast, anyway. And for those who say, "don't put the center in the chamber end, you'll damage it!". I have 3 M1 Garand barrels in the shop and looked at all 3. There's a nice radius at the chamber 'mouth', and it you're careful and don't push the center in like you are Hercules, there'll be no problem.
 

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