Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle- Photo added
- Thread starter JLDavid
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Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
I have taken everything you mentioned, with my M77, #4 Shilen Barreled .270 win. It is bedded into a McMillan stock with a Timney trigger and wears a Leupold 4.5-14 VX3 with a CDS dial. I thought about a number of calibers, but I often find myself away from home. I went with a straight .270win , just because in an emergency I can find ammo almost anywhere. My partner hunts with the same thing, and his chamber is cut with the same reamer. We shoot the exact same load and can swap ammo with each other when needed. My alternate rig, or when I feel like a heavier bullet, is a 30-06.
I have taken everything you mentioned, with my M77, #4 Shilen Barreled .270 win. It is bedded into a McMillan stock with a Timney trigger and wears a Leupold 4.5-14 VX3 with a CDS dial. I thought about a number of calibers, but I often find myself away from home. I went with a straight .270win , just because in an emergency I can find ammo almost anywhere. My partner hunts with the same thing, and his chamber is cut with the same reamer. We shoot the exact same load and can swap ammo with each other when needed. My alternate rig, or when I feel like a heavier bullet, is a 30-06.
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
Pierce titanium action, 284 Winchester, 22 or 24 inch number 2 or 3 contour. And a Brown Precision Pounder stock. Nightforce 2.5-10 or 3.5-15. Sounds like alot of hiking and ounces count Iif you are packing all day.
Pierce titanium action, 284 Winchester, 22 or 24 inch number 2 or 3 contour. And a Brown Precision Pounder stock. Nightforce 2.5-10 or 3.5-15. Sounds like alot of hiking and ounces count Iif you are packing all day.
searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
I don't have a good scale so tried my trigger scale and not sure if correct - but it said about 9 1/2 pounds. I think it is a bit less, all up with scope. I said it had a blind box but it does have a hinged plate on the bottom. Lester and I talked a lot about weight before this build and I was willing to sacrafice a pound of weight to get what I wanted - making it perhaps a tad heavy for a dedicated sheep rifle - but mine was built for my "do it all hunting rifle" for other than dangerous game and varmints, and for which would excell at longer ranges. I have a few ultralight rifles and they are great for climbing peaks but use this whenever very long shots may be called for.
I don't have a good scale so tried my trigger scale and not sure if correct - but it said about 9 1/2 pounds. I think it is a bit less, all up with scope. I said it had a blind box but it does have a hinged plate on the bottom. Lester and I talked a lot about weight before this build and I was willing to sacrafice a pound of weight to get what I wanted - making it perhaps a tad heavy for a dedicated sheep rifle - but mine was built for my "do it all hunting rifle" for other than dangerous game and varmints, and for which would excell at longer ranges. I have a few ultralight rifles and they are great for climbing peaks but use this whenever very long shots may be called for.
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
The rifle I would take wouldn't be a rifle at all, I stopped hunting with those long heavy things years ago. I would go with a XP-100 action, a 18" Christianson carbon fiber wrapped no taper barrel chambered in 7mm WSM, a Holland break for recoil, and have it all wrapped up in a custom carbon fiber mid grip stock. Either Mac's or Apache would build it for me and I would have them top it off with a Swarovski Z-5 3.5-18X44.
The rifle I would take wouldn't be a rifle at all, I stopped hunting with those long heavy things years ago. I would go with a XP-100 action, a 18" Christianson carbon fiber wrapped no taper barrel chambered in 7mm WSM, a Holland break for recoil, and have it all wrapped up in a custom carbon fiber mid grip stock. Either Mac's or Apache would build it for me and I would have them top it off with a Swarovski Z-5 3.5-18X44.
effendude
Gold $$ Contributor
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
With all due respect, so much time and effort is given the weight of the rifle when the first spot to look for weight savings is in the mirror. I shoot a 10-12# rifle far better than I shoot a 7-9# rifle, especially at distance or when taking that shot of a lifetime. I will carry the weight regardless, but I would rather have a heavier, yet forgiving rifle than one that exaggerates my every pulse.
Scott
With all due respect, so much time and effort is given the weight of the rifle when the first spot to look for weight savings is in the mirror. I shoot a 10-12# rifle far better than I shoot a 7-9# rifle, especially at distance or when taking that shot of a lifetime. I will carry the weight regardless, but I would rather have a heavier, yet forgiving rifle than one that exaggerates my every pulse.
Scott
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
I definitely agree with you on the getting in shape part. My wife and I have "Torture Night" three or more times a week and it has helped immensely. I am lighter now than I was 10 years ago and feel great. I have always been a long barrel fan so my rifles are usually on the heavy side even in sporter configuration. This discussion has given me a lot of things to consider when building this next rifle. Thanks to all who have given their input. Have a great weekend.
David
I definitely agree with you on the getting in shape part. My wife and I have "Torture Night" three or more times a week and it has helped immensely. I am lighter now than I was 10 years ago and feel great. I have always been a long barrel fan so my rifles are usually on the heavy side even in sporter configuration. This discussion has given me a lot of things to consider when building this next rifle. Thanks to all who have given their input. Have a great weekend.
David
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
These last few responses have focused on a somewhat heaver barrel/rifle for stability when climbing or heavy exertion has taken it's toll on the body. This is true to a point!
If one builds the rifle as light weight with a 25/26 inch barrel it will go a long way towards warding off the shakes from exertion!
However the short barrel our medium barrel (especially a light barrel) will have you quivering.
Point being, one wants the weight to be "out front", this has a remarkable tendency to calm down the shakes . This is for a Mountain type rifle in heavy terrain.
NOTE: If your sheep hunting is in terrain where "ledges/dangerous passages/ or anything" that impedes your movement can happen, then keep that barrel length down, trust me!!
Another thing, use GREAT bullets, Nosler Partition or one of the new premium bullets with a known record behind it.
These last few responses have focused on a somewhat heaver barrel/rifle for stability when climbing or heavy exertion has taken it's toll on the body. This is true to a point!
If one builds the rifle as light weight with a 25/26 inch barrel it will go a long way towards warding off the shakes from exertion!
However the short barrel our medium barrel (especially a light barrel) will have you quivering.
Point being, one wants the weight to be "out front", this has a remarkable tendency to calm down the shakes . This is for a Mountain type rifle in heavy terrain.
NOTE: If your sheep hunting is in terrain where "ledges/dangerous passages/ or anything" that impedes your movement can happen, then keep that barrel length down, trust me!!
Another thing, use GREAT bullets, Nosler Partition or one of the new premium bullets with a known record behind it.
rickiesrevenge
Silver $$ Contributor
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
Mine is a 6.5-284. Pencil thin 20" barrel in a MPI lightweight stock. Leupold 3-9x33 in talley light weight ring/base combo rings. Ready to hunt it weighs 6# even on my scale. It shoots pretty good for the first 3 shots, then starts to wander a bit. Never needed more than one with it anyway. Don't even know its there until you need it. Darn thing is no fun to shoot though. Kicks like a mule!!
Aaron
Mine is a 6.5-284. Pencil thin 20" barrel in a MPI lightweight stock. Leupold 3-9x33 in talley light weight ring/base combo rings. Ready to hunt it weighs 6# even on my scale. It shoots pretty good for the first 3 shots, then starts to wander a bit. Never needed more than one with it anyway. Don't even know its there until you need it. Darn thing is no fun to shoot though. Kicks like a mule!!
Aaron
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
i agree with Alf, the shakes can come from being out of shape yes, they can also come from carrying too much weight regardless of condition,
altitude and steep slopes do inhibit normal physical activity, and few hunters live above 5-6000 ft.
if you worry about weight a set of shooting sticks weighs a lot less than the extra pounds on a rifle and can be used as a waling stick also for stability in rough terrain. don't try using a rifle as a walking stick!
Bob
i agree with Alf, the shakes can come from being out of shape yes, they can also come from carrying too much weight regardless of condition,
altitude and steep slopes do inhibit normal physical activity, and few hunters live above 5-6000 ft.
if you worry about weight a set of shooting sticks weighs a lot less than the extra pounds on a rifle and can be used as a waling stick also for stability in rough terrain. don't try using a rifle as a walking stick!
Bob
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
IMO you are over analyzing what you need, I realize that need and want are not the same things but unless you have an itch to build a rifle there is a much easier way to get there.
Step 1 - Buy a Tikka T3 stainless synthetic. The standard model weighs right at 6 lbs, the Superlite weight 5 lbs 8 oz. They come with a very nice trigger, are guaranteed 3 shot MOA groups, I have never seen one that did not easily best that.
Step 2 - Purchase a quality lightweight scope - Leupold VX - 3 comes to mind for me as being a good combination of light weight and great glass (I have a couple of the new VX - 3's and the glass is great). Something in the 3-9 or 4-12 range for hunting any more than that is heavy and you are packing, and paying for, more magnification than is needed for big game hunting.
Step 3 - The hard part - decide on caliber. Personally I would go with a 7/08, 308, 270, 30/06 or something in that range with a strong lean towards the 308.
Step 4 - Shoot, practice, get used to the gun. Don't shoot it just off the bench, shoot from improvised positions like you may have to make in a hunting situation. This is probably the most important step of all.
You did not indicate where you are hunting that you expect 500 to 600 yd shots but in my experience most game shots come in at under 200 yds with an occasional 300 yd one. Get out and take a look at 500 to 600 yds - it is a long ways to take a shot at any animal. I live in the west where supposedly most all shots are long shots, when they are lazered most 500 - 600 yd shots are more like 250 - 300 yds.
drover
JLDavid said:
IMO you are over analyzing what you need, I realize that need and want are not the same things but unless you have an itch to build a rifle there is a much easier way to get there.
Step 1 - Buy a Tikka T3 stainless synthetic. The standard model weighs right at 6 lbs, the Superlite weight 5 lbs 8 oz. They come with a very nice trigger, are guaranteed 3 shot MOA groups, I have never seen one that did not easily best that.
Step 2 - Purchase a quality lightweight scope - Leupold VX - 3 comes to mind for me as being a good combination of light weight and great glass (I have a couple of the new VX - 3's and the glass is great). Something in the 3-9 or 4-12 range for hunting any more than that is heavy and you are packing, and paying for, more magnification than is needed for big game hunting.
Step 3 - The hard part - decide on caliber. Personally I would go with a 7/08, 308, 270, 30/06 or something in that range with a strong lean towards the 308.
Step 4 - Shoot, practice, get used to the gun. Don't shoot it just off the bench, shoot from improvised positions like you may have to make in a hunting situation. This is probably the most important step of all.
You did not indicate where you are hunting that you expect 500 to 600 yd shots but in my experience most game shots come in at under 200 yds with an occasional 300 yd one. Get out and take a look at 500 to 600 yds - it is a long ways to take a shot at any animal. I live in the west where supposedly most all shots are long shots, when they are lazered most 500 - 600 yd shots are more like 250 - 300 yds.
drover
searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
No doubt, the heavy guns are "heavier" to carry. I leave my light weight rifles in the safe more often than not because when it gets right down to it, I want a steady rifle, a powerful enough optic that is bright enough to survey every aspect of what I am about to shoot, and when I shoot, I don't entirely lose my sight picture - and if I do, I can get back on right quick. The day may come when I am not fit enough to bring my first choice of gun and optic. I hope that day doesn't come too soon. JLDavid wants a rifle to shoot an honest 600 yards. I am assuming he knows what 600 yards is. If only shooting 300 yards, I'd be more inclined to take the "5 pounder". For those of us who DO regularly shoot an honest 500 to 600 or more and KNOW the handicaps imposed by the 5-pounder, lugging the beast of burden isn't so bad - unless of course, you have your own limitations. Some folks don't like brakes (I do) and a 5-pound elk gun (he does want it for elk too) with no brake recovers quite poorly for a second shot if needed. Lots of things to consider.
No doubt, the heavy guns are "heavier" to carry. I leave my light weight rifles in the safe more often than not because when it gets right down to it, I want a steady rifle, a powerful enough optic that is bright enough to survey every aspect of what I am about to shoot, and when I shoot, I don't entirely lose my sight picture - and if I do, I can get back on right quick. The day may come when I am not fit enough to bring my first choice of gun and optic. I hope that day doesn't come too soon. JLDavid wants a rifle to shoot an honest 600 yards. I am assuming he knows what 600 yards is. If only shooting 300 yards, I'd be more inclined to take the "5 pounder". For those of us who DO regularly shoot an honest 500 to 600 or more and KNOW the handicaps imposed by the 5-pounder, lugging the beast of burden isn't so bad - unless of course, you have your own limitations. Some folks don't like brakes (I do) and a 5-pound elk gun (he does want it for elk too) with no brake recovers quite poorly for a second shot if needed. Lots of things to consider.
alf
Silver $$ Contributor
Re: Spec out your ultimate high country big game rifle
Mines a S/S short action 700 opened up for a Wyatts magazine, 23" Rock fluted #3 contour chambered in 7-08, in a McMillan Edge filled Classic stock, with a 4.5-14x40 Mark IV in Talley lightweights. Weighs 7 pounds, 1 ounce. I could drop the scope weight by a little if I wanted to, but it's not a pig at 16 ounces.JLDavid said:
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