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South Bend collet Question

Couple of spiders I have for my lathes. The darker one is for my South Bend H10; made from a piece of 2"
pipe if I recall correctly. The shiny one is for my Hardinge HLV-H; made by a buddy of mine for his HLV-H, and he hasn't asked for it back yet. Both have 10/32 screws with cut off .22 brass pinched on to protect the barrel finish. Both are a tight slip fit on the machines, and a small set screw holds them in place. Seldom use them anymore.

Spider 1.jpg spider 2.jpg
 
Couple of spiders I have for my lathes. The darker one is for my South Bend H10; made from a piece of 2"
pipe if I recall correctly. The shiny one is for my Hardinge HLV-H; made by a buddy of mine for his HLV-H, and he hasn't asked for it back yet. Both have 10/32 screws with cut off .22 brass pinched on to protect the barrel finish. Both are a tight slip fit on the machines, and a small set screw holds them in place. Seldom use them anymore.

View attachment 1089727 View attachment 1089728

How do the flathead screws work out?
 
When I had my 10L, I had the lever collet closer and they run a 5c collet. I used mine a lot more than i originally expected. Made a ton of OAL cases with that setup.

I have a handwheel 5C on my clausing now but have not had a reason to use it yet.

Here's what I set up on the clausing for barrel work. Still have to tip the screws.
20190212_150101.jpg
20190212_150205.jpg
I used 5/16-24 on the outboard and 3/8-24 screws on the chuck side. I need to pick up shorter screws for the back end. I also have a 6 jaw buck adjust tru for longer barrels.
 
If yall will make those spiders alot thicker you could use set screws which would be a lot safer. I hate to see anybody get wrapped up

The ones on my spider are about 2x longer than the ones I bought specifically for this. I have plenty of threads for set screws but prefer the cap heads. There is a large handwheel that isn't pictured that goes over all that and covers it up.

Did you notice the cap head screws on the chuck? Think i left that plenty thick. :) I've seen plenty of set screws sticking out further than what I normally have on my spider. Ideally, one would have a couple sets of screws for different profile barrels to keep them below flush.

While I agree you could easily get caught on these, so could you with a 3 or 4 jaw. Loosing your fear for the machine I believe is more dangerous. Every move i make on a running machine is thought out before i do it and running possible mistakes through my head before each movement has kept me safe. The recessed holes on these fixtures even scare me! Get a random large chip in there for some strange reason and tear a chunck off skin off!

I learned that early as a kid in my grandfather's metal shop. The second you get complacent is when you get hurt. I've made half a dozen spiders over the years with different screw set ups and this is what I prefer.

Not taking offense, just agreeing.
 
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The ones on my spider are about 2x longer than the ones I bought specifically for this. I have plenty of threads for set screws but prefer the cap heads. There is a large handwheel that isn't pictured that goes over all that and covers it up.

Did you notice the cap head screws on the chuck? Think i left that plenty thick. :) I've seen plenty of set screws sticking out further than what I normally have on my spider. Ideally, one would have a couple sets of screws for different profile barrels to keep them below flush.

While I agree you could easily get caught on these, so could you with a 3 or 4 jaw. Loosing your fear for the machine I believe is more dangerous. Every move i make on a running machine is thought out before i do it and running possible mistakes through my head before each movement has kept me safe. The recessed holes on these fixtures even scare me! Get a random large chip in there for some strange reason and tear a chunck off skin off!

I learned that early as a kid in my grandfather's metal shop. The second you get complacent is when you get hurt. I've made half a dozen spiders over the years with different screw set ups and this is what I prefer.

Not taking offense, just agreeing.

It wasnt directed at you sir, it was mainly a public service announcement using your picture as an example. I meant no disrespect for sure.
 
It wasnt directed at you sir, it was mainly a public service announcement using your picture as an example. I meant no disrespect for sure.
I know. No offense taken.

I did make it a point on the chuck side to streamline the one in the photo as much as possible because this is where I spend most of my time.
 
Little late to the party, but here's more show and tell. This front spider is for my SBend Heavy 10, attached to a small SB driver plate. I used it for crowning mostly, and chamber set backs on factory take off barrels. Never used it for a full drill and chamber
job, as I didn't trust it to not slip. I made the brass tipped rocker screws also. I alway's used my 4 jaw for a full chambering job.
 

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Little late to the party, but here's more show and tell. This front spider is for my SBend Heavy 10, attached to a small SB driver plate. I used it for crowning mostly, and chamber set backs on factory take off barrels. Never used it for a full drill and chamber
job, as I didn't trust it to not slip. I made the brass tipped rocker screws also. I alway's used my 4 jaw for a full chambering job.


It won't slip unless you get heavy handed. I use a cathead on both ends for about 20yrs.
 

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