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sorting brass by wieght vs capacity vs no sorting

I appreciate the help guys. I get a little anal about things at times. I might try loading some once fired brass and see how my numbers look then.
Just an fyi, dont leave ur round in the chamber more than 10 seconds without firing, longer in the chamber the faster the velocities,
 
..... what is the best way then to find volume fired brass or resized brass. I love sticking the stick in the spokes

Say we qualify/segregate our cases as spent brass. Next were going to make preparation steps to get them ready to reload them with powder and bullets. In those steps, any sizing or dimensional changes of the brass that we make to them, can and will change there volume capacity. Then when powdering and seating the bullets into the "now" prepped brass, will be subjected to variations in powder columns and load densities. Which makes no sense to me and why I would never consider qualifying my cases from spent, unprocessed brass.
Happy New Years
Donovan
 
Oh yeah, the lab radar also... So I guess I'll do all THREE. Since 3 of the 4 sanctioning bodies/classes have 10 shot records in the TWO'S.

Tom
You waste all your 2"s in practice with your "bad brass" so I dont know what your concerned about. I think Leo's bad brass shoots pretty good too if I remember right. ;)
 
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Why not do both even if your not a top shooter.
Happy New Year Larry

For me, I get burnt out with repetitive stuff. I test things to see if they show on paper so I can decide what to do and what not to worry about. If a guy doesnt mind sorting everything under the sun then more power to him. I want to do only what I have proven to myself to show up on target or I'll burn out.
 
I talk with Tom and Donovan. They have a method of sorting by volume that repeats. When I tried a few years ago I couldnt find a method that would repeat good enough for me. Which may have soured me to the whole thing.
 
So once formed to the chamber should they get closer in velocity? I can not seem to get my ES below 10. It shots great on paper. But I can never get a single digit ES. I know it's not my scale causing problems and I've tried three different primers. All basically give me the same results. And ES of 10-11. I am checking with a Labradar generally the majority of the shots are within 5 fps of each other. The I get the odd ball 20-30 fps high or low. I am using Varget, win fed cci primers Lapua cases and 185 gr Berger

It's a .308. Average is 2630ish. I will get one or two 2614 and a 2668 in a ten or twenty shot string. So far I have just been using virgin brass.

So set that velocity oddball brass aside. Measure everything on it to see if anything is different. Load and shoot it again to see if it repeats as an outlier. If it does you should be able to find something to identify what to focus on, and if not use it as a fouler. If you find nothing and it does not repeat then perhaps the brass is not the problem.

There is a lot to be learned from the outliers, they give you the clues.
 
So set that velocity oddball brass aside. Measure everything on it to see if anything is different. Load and shoot it again to see if it repeats as an outlier. If it does you should be able to find something to identify what to focus on, and if not use it as a fouler. If you find nothing and it does not repeat then perhaps the brass is not the problem.

There is a lot to be learned from the outliers, they give you the clues.
Agreed!
Not always what you intended to learn, but learning nonetheless.
CW
 
So once formed to the chamber should they get closer in velocity? I can not seem to get my ES below 10. It shots great on paper. But I can never get a single digit ES. I know it's not my scale causing problems and I've tried three different primers. All basically give me the same results. And ES of 10-11. I am checking with a Labradar generally the majority of the shots are within 5 fps of each other. The I get the odd ball 20-30 fps high or low. I am using Varget, win fed cci primers Lapua cases and 185 gr Berger

It's a .308. Average is 2630ish. I will get one or two 2614 and a 2668 in a ten or twenty shot string. So far I have just been using virgin brass.
Do you think that your FP spring could be on the edge of just being able to whap the primer with the consistent amount of force needed ?
 
This may be a dumb question, but I'm a reloading novice, so here goes: Ok, I've weight-sorted my brass...I have several different groups of brass weights...now what? Throw the heaviest and lightest ones in the trash? Don't use them?

What weight bins do I use? 0.2-gr increments? 0.5-gr increments?

What do you do with the brass now that it's sorted?
 
I work up my load in the cases from the largest number of cases in a single weight class. Then I use that load (adjusting for powder space) in the other groups. I can independently work separate loads if necessary for the outliers. The idea is that to use at targets or on game you use brass from the same weight class at any one outing.
 
@earthquake -
My suggestion is to start on one end of your weight array and load to the other end.
Next place them in your ammo cases and shoot them in the same order.
My 2-Cents
Donovan
 
OK, thanks...now I see...sort of! Anyway, do you need to then somehow permanently mark/differentiate this brass, or do you re-weigh it after every firing and just keep in mind what weighs what in the box?!

None of this is covered in the manuals....any good reading resources? Appreciated.
 

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