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something different for stock endcaps?

I have never used pro custom but I have heard good things about it. If you use tru-oil and cut it in half with mineral spirits it goes on real well and you can build it up as much as you want.I have been using Tung oil and Japan Dryer recently. After you have the pores filled you can wipe it on the stock with a lint free cloth. It builds up well and you can get it in either low or high gloss, and of course you can use rubbing compound to get the final sheen you want.
 
I've developed some methods that work good. i always cut it down, way easier to work with. a few years back i started using coffee filters to rub it in with great results.

how does that oil and jap drier work for you. ive never looked into it but have thought about it from time to time.
 
I really like the way the Tung oil works. It is already thin so there is no need to cut it with anything. I put just enough for one coat of finish in a medicine cup and add about 4 drops of Japan Dryer to it. I use a 50/50 mix of tru-oil and mineral spirits to fill the pores by wet sanding with it. Just give it ample time to dry. Once the filler has dryed you can sand off the excess and start with your regular finish.
The first few coats will soak in pretty good. After every second coat I use 0000 steel wool and tack cloth to give the next coat something to adhere to.
I just wipe it on with a lint free cloth which is about 1/2 inch wide. Old t-shirts work good.You can put as many coats on as you desire. You can get it in either low or high gloss to suit yourtaste.
 
Finally got some updated photos. This is right after the first sealer coat. Won't be able to get to it for a few more days, but it's coming together.

Not sure if I want to leave the pewter or polish it up. I'll see what it looks like when I get the finished action back in it.
 

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Looking nice! I hope you dovetailed the wood into the pewter. Or, if it gets loose, you could work in stainless screws and sand flush. A conservative schnabel end would be nice on the forestock. Maybe too late for that, didn't realize you had finish on it. But 1/16" relief/reshape is enough to get the schnabel look
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but a Schnabel would not fit the look of this stock at all, and I don't believe I have enough material there to make a proper looking one work without compromising the integrity of the cap.

As for it being fastened and dovetailed in place, that has been done along with other measures to make sure it will not come off. I spent a lot of time researching how to do this along with way too much time actually doing it.

I'll be bluing the receiver here in a few more weeks, so when it's all finished, I'll post some photos of the finished rifle.
 
Well,
Finally got this thing pretty much done other than giving the bolt a final polish. Also, I included a video of me shooting the first time out. Nothing special but it was fun. It was really windy, but I show the target at the end.[youtube]http://youtu.be/ijxfEoDHBdE[/youtube]
 

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And a few more.
 

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Nicely done. Always wanted to do a Sharps style foreend tip in pewter. Have a yard sale $2 beer mug lined up for the raw materials.
 
Yeah, it was a pain to do and I'm glad it did it and know how, but I'm not sure I would do it again unless it was a smaller one like on an old BP rifle.
 
I;ve used contrasting wood, from walnut to ebony, etc, etc. But I've never poured a cap. Very interesting and worked out nice in the end.

So where are the inlaid jewels and gold?

Just joking, nice work.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
I've got a box full of Swarovski crystals waiting to be inlayed..........

No, I like clean and neat, I don't like wood carving ether unless it is nice checkering or stippling. I do wish I knew how to engrave metal though!
 

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