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Some race shop pics

Holy Moly Al!
It sure isn't like running modified eliminator 50 year ago.:cool:
So true! Back then, you could run a good drag car with 6 current carrying wires...line lock, fuel pump, water pump, 'start' side of the solenoid and an ignition switch.

My last Stock Eliminator car carried a more sophisticated electronics package than early '90's Pro Stockers. Fuel pump/relay, digital MSD box, start retard, digital timing sequence, sequence timer, high gear timing retard brake pressure activated digital two step plus a manually activated retard control, water pump and a one wire alternator with a 3000 rpm auto cutout relay. o_O

Good shootin' :).- Al
 
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With Bob's fab skills, the intercooler tank turned out pretty slick. The tank is 6 lbs with the 6" cap (yet to be added). 3 gals of water/ice per the rules add another 21 and the pump assy on the bottom another 10. So with 37 lbs. of weight there, the supporting brackets and flanges were made pretty stout...there's one on the bottom you can't see. You can see the right side intercooler return line routed back to the tank...the left is yet to be done along with the supply line. The front clip goes on next and clearance for the cap and fill extension will get measured. Ideally, it would be angled forward but the hood clearance will dictate that.

Hope you enjoy the updates.
3Pz0Wnil.jpg

TrVBj2al.jpg
 
With Bob's fab skills, the intercooler tank turned out pretty slick. The tank is 6 lbs with the 6" cap (yet to be added). 3 gals of water/ice per the rules add another 21 and the pump assy on the bottom another 10. So with 37 lbs. of weight there, the supporting brackets and flanges were made pretty stout...there's one on the bottom you can't see. You can see the right side intercooler return line routed back to the tank...the left is yet to be done along with the supply line. The front clip goes on next and clearance for the cap and fill extension will get measured. Ideally, it would be angled forward but the hood clearance will dictate that.

Hope you enjoy the updates.
3Pz0Wnil.jpg

TrVBj2al.jpg

Bob's fabrication and welding skills are indeed impressive. I will bet he already knows that and rarely talks about it, just want him to know others appreciate his skills.
 
Mr. Al, the 30BR is going to be a challenge, but now I want my LS motor bumped up. You and Bill are costing me my retirement, but it is going to be fun. You can't take it with you !!
 
The two to be tested. Left is a 283-220 Super Stock engine, right is a 265" Super Stock engine.
s0Sf0Hrl.jpg

The 283 was first up. A final check of the valve lash before warm up.
sY9LGqcl.jpg

Like with anything, there's always the behind the scenes maintaining that takes place. Bob and I attend to some plumbing stuff that supplies water to the servo valve that feeds the dynos water brake from a holding tank. Think of it as a very complex version of the tank on a toilet that has to constantly feed a precise amount of water into the tank while managing the overflow at the same time. This keeps the water temp in the water brake consistent so the dyno numbers stay consistent.
j5DtkHWl.jpg

Warmed up, no leaks,water brake servo valve is set, timing is checked a final time and it's ready for the first baseline pull.
adxAbnjl.jpg

Coming up on the throttle. The pull begins at 6,000 which is where the servo holds the rpm until the
run program' button is activated on the console. It has too much oil pressure but that was intentional for this test.
eBl6rS0l.jpg

Off the throttle and coming back down.
y9IzRHVl.jpg

Next, we go right back within 5 minutes and repeat the same cycle. On the first pull, even with the oil temp at 140 (which is the baseline oil temp for each pull) the fresh oil hasn't been 'knocked down' yet. New oil molecules are like jagged round spheres. The 'spikes' of the molecules hold back a bit of power until they have been crashed and tumbled together to remove the 'spikes'. The next pull on 'knocked down' oil will always make some more power. On this one, it made another 6 horse power. It's at this point that meaningful testing can begin.
Without divulging what was done, 12 pulls later the engine has made significant improvements. It got loaded up and a satisfied owner headed back to Kansas.
gON1Azul.jpg


Next up was the 265" engine. Good progress was made and based on the direction things were taking, the decision was made to hold the project over and pick up with it next week with some cam changes.

Hope some of you enjoy this stuff. Good shootin' :) -Al
 
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I know some of you enjoy seeing my 'day job' stuff...here's some stuff going on now.

This one came out. It's pretty tight with the carb linkage under the lip of the wind shield...you have to jiggle the engine forward just a skosh. When it's out, there's plenty of room.
USscicnl.jpg

g0y7SI7l.jpg

6LVHmnEl.jpg


This one has been in and out during fab work. The mid plate is finally done and it and the trans is in place. Next comes the radiator and all the cooling lines for the inter cooler and the inter cooler ice tank. It's going to be tight. And of course....the new tranmission is leaking fluid from a weld in the oil pan. :mad:
cHfrGYUl.jpg

Z5TTzZjl.jpg

dVMQl0ql.jpg

qcsQDLjl.jpg

dSYiIcvl.jpg

That's sick.

I wish we lived close I would hire you to help me put this 350 in my fiance's Blazer. It's a built Vortec and we are going to put a Sniper on it.
 
It's a built Vortec and we are going to put a Sniper on it.
The Sniper setups are generally pretty decent. They have some quirks in the fuel pump wiring circuit that should be addressed during installation to save you from being dead in the water with no power at the pump. If you haven't purchased a setup yet, the Sniper II (constant self tuning) systems have most of these updates. I'd strongly suggest the optional Power Distribution Module (PDM) along with their fuel pump system. It will greatly simplify things.

A pals Pro Street Corvette has the original Sniper system on a big inch BBC. It works well after the fuel pump quirks mentioned above were worked out. He got lucky...it died as he was pulling into his driveway.
dlXfPtFh.jpg


My 2 cents but as always, do your homework. -Al
 
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The two to be tested. Left is a 283-220 Super Stock engine, right is a 265" Super Stock engine.
s0Sf0Hrl.jpg

The 283 was first up. A final check of the valve lash before warm up.
sY9LGqcl.jpg

Like with anything, there's always the behind the scenes maintaining that takes place. Bob and I attend to some plumbing stuff that supplies water to the servo valve that feeds the dynos water brake from a holding tank. Think of it as a very complex version of the tank on a toilet that has to constantly feed a precise amount of water into the tank while managing the overflow at the same time. This keeps the water temp in the water brake consistent so the dyno numbers stay consistent.
j5DtkHWl.jpg

Warmed up, no leaks,water brake servo valve is set, timing is checked a final time and it's ready for the first baseline pull.
adxAbnjl.jpg

Coming up on the throttle. The pull begins at 6,000 which is where the servo holds the rpm until the
run program' button is activated on the console. It has too much oil pressure but that was intentional for this test.
eBl6rS0l.jpg

Off the throttle and coming back down.
y9IzRHVl.jpg

Next, we go right back within 5 minutes and repeat the same cycle. On the first pull, even with the oil temp at 140 (which is the baseline oil temp for each pull) the fresh oil hasn't been 'knocked down' yet. New oil molecules are like jagged round spheres. The 'spikes' of the molecules hold back a bit of power until they have been crashed and tumbled together to remove the 'spikes'. The next pull on 'knocked down' oil will always make some more power. On this one, it made another 6 horse power. It's at this point that meaningful testing can begin.
Without divulging what was done, 12 pulls later the engine has made significant improvements. It got loaded up and a satisfied owner headed back to Kansas.
gON1Azul.jpg


Next up was the 265" engine. Good progress was made and based on the direction things were taking, the decision was made to hold the project over and pick up with it next week with some cam changes.

Hope some of you enjoy this stuff. Good shootin' :) -Al

The two to be tested. Left is a 283-220 Super Stock engine, right is a 265" Super Stock engine.
s0Sf0Hrl.jpg

The 283 was first up. A final check of the valve lash before warm up.
sY9LGqcl.jpg

Like with anything, there's always the behind the scenes maintaining that takes place. Bob and I attend to some plumbing stuff that supplies water to the servo valve that feeds the dynos water brake from a holding tank. Think of it as a very complex version of the tank on a toilet that has to constantly feed a precise amount of water into the tank while managing the overflow at the same time. This keeps the water temp in the water brake consistent so the dyno numbers stay consistent.
j5DtkHWl.jpg

Warmed up, no leaks,water brake servo valve is set, timing is checked a final time and it's ready for the first baseline pull.
adxAbnjl.jpg

Coming up on the throttle. The pull begins at 6,000 which is where the servo holds the rpm until the
run program' button is activated on the console. It has too much oil pressure but that was intentional for this test.
eBl6rS0l.jpg

Off the throttle and coming back down.
y9IzRHVl.jpg

Next, we go right back within 5 minutes and repeat the same cycle. On the first pull, even with the oil temp at 140 (which is the baseline oil temp for each pull) the fresh oil hasn't been 'knocked down' yet. New oil molecules are like jagged round spheres. The 'spikes' of the molecules hold back a bit of power until they have been crashed and tumbled together to remove the 'spikes'. The next pull on 'knocked down' oil will always make some more power. On this one, it made another 6 horse power. It's at this point that meaningful testing can begin.
Without divulging what was done, 12 pulls later the engine has made significant improvements. It got loaded up and a satisfied owner headed back to Kansas.
gON1Azul.jpg


Next up was the 265" engine. Good progress was made and based on the direction things were taking, the decision was made to hold the project over and pick up with it next week with some cam changes.

Hope some of you enjoy this stuff. Good shootin' :) -Al
Al, just for the fun of it, you should get one of the old 1955 canister oil filter setups for that 265 and put it under the hood With some hoses. Hey, that was the “high performance option” :)
 

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