Some new cases are tight

[Jayplace]

I originally was planning on expanding in two steps, going to .27 first then going to the .30, but it seemed like a lot of people did it in one step. I don't mind doing it in two steps if that's better. I don't know. I still have the .27 expander.
Do you recommend doing it in two steps or does it make a difference?

The expanders are all K&M which is what they furnish to work for their cutting tool. I started out using a different cutter, but its mandrel is definitly larger than the K&M and I really had to work to get the case on it.

My first cut is done using their inside cutting mandrel followed by a non-cutting mandrel for the finish cut. The closest angle K&M has is a 33* cutter which is what I use. I'm using two neck turning tools so I don't have to adjust the cutter.

 

[Bill Norris]

I have turned 250 pcs. of 30BR brass with only one pass without any issues at all. I then fired them and went back thru them for a touch up skim. Best quality turn job is slowly feeding onto the mandrel. I used the Redding tapered sizing button in my F/L die.

 

[acloco]

Use a black sharpie to color the neck, shoulder, and 3/16" of the case body. Allow to dry on case and then chamber the case.

Sharpie = truthsayer

 

[Jayplace]

Use a black sharpie to color the neck, shoulder, and 3/16" of the case body. Allow to dry on case and then chamber the case.

Sharpie = truthsayer

Those sharpies come in hand for more than just writing.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I cant believe out of all these replies nobody has suggested to run it into the die. Thats a pretty important step in the loading process

 

[DJSBRS]

I cant believe out of all these replies nobody has suggested to run it into the die. Thats a pretty important step in the loading process

In post #19, I recommended him to run the brass thru a FL die at two different times Dusty.

DJ

 

[Dusty Stevens]

In post #19, I recommended him to run the brass thru a FL die at two different times Dusty.

DJ

Me and you

 

[Jayplace]

In post #19, I recommended him to run the brass thru a FL die at two different times Dusty.

DJ

I have tried resizing the brass and even bumped the shoulder back several thousandth from my original fire-formed cases and that made no difference.

When I resized the cases there was no bushing in the die. Perhaps, if there was a bushing it would straighten the neck. That would assume the neck was no longer straight from expanding step. I don't know, they looked Ok.

 

[DJSBRS]

You should use a bushing to align the neck with the body. It appears to me, that your neck is not concentric to the body. Don't bump shoulder back too much or you will get a failure to fire or if it does, it will stretch your body at some point.

DJ

 

[LHSmith]

I still believe you are getting interference on the neck diameter because some chamber and some don't. You are borderline on clearence either because the chamber neck dia is marked wrong or your measurements are off. Wrap a piece of scotch tape (1 layer) around a piece of brass and see if it chambers. Remember to remove the tape when you are done.

 

[AlNyhus]

What does the neck O.D. measure on a turned case with a bullet seated?

 

[Jayplace]

What does the neck O.D. measure on a turned case with a bullet seated?

All new brass must be FL sized or itll get you someday

Do you FL size after the neck turning? (For 30BR)

 

[Jayplace]

When using a "one step" sizing mandrel, it tends to put a lot of pressure on the shoulder shifting the shoulder over slightly causing loss of concentricity as well as getting more split necks. FL resize after you use your expander mandrel then use the expander mandrel that matches your turning tool mandrel. After your turning process is complete, FL size all the way to the neck shoulder junction. The outside donut will be down about 2/3 down on the neck after sizing and before turning. Be sure to use the 30º cutting blade on your turner so you won't get to thin at the neck shoulder junction. If you need some help, feel free to call me. Once you fire it, you will have it extract easily.

DJ
DJ's Brass Service
205-461-4680

I believe what you described is what caused my sticking bolt. I tried resizing the case without a bushing in the Harrells die thinking that reducing the case size would resolve my problem. It didn't.

After reading your comment, I put a bushing in the die. It extracts just fine now.

That now brings up another question. When using a Harrells die, should the bushing be locked in place with the part that screws down on it, or should the bushing be allowed to float slightly to self center?

K&M doesn't make a 30* cutter, but they do make a 33* cutter that I use.

 

[HTSmith]

My Harrell’s dies allow the bushing to click even when you screw it all the way down.