So I would like your opinions on my maiden .308 build

[Road_Clam]

So my project build will begin with a newly acquired Rem 700 SPS Varmint .308. I basically bought a new action for a net cost of $555 . The rifle was $630 from my local Bass Pro , - Remington's current SPS Varmint $50 rebate, - a $25 Visa gift card from the family. I say "action" because what all the experts say is 100% true in the essence that the SPS's composite stock is a wicked flimsey POS. So after much research, and some asking around at my LGC, I opted to purchase a basic B&C A5 Medalist stock. I have previously shot a .223 with this exact stock and it felt really nice.

http://www.redhawkrifles.com/products/tactical-stocks/2094-02-remington-700-sa-a5-stock-black

As for optics I decided to go with a Sightron SIII 8-32X56 from Optics Planet. Did a LOT of research and within my $900 budget, and my poor eyes, I think this is my best choice. I ordered a Brownell's one pc scope base, and once I get the scope and have some measurements I am going with Burris Xtreme tatical mounts (just not sure on the height requirement yet)

http://www.opticsplanet.com/sightron-siii-ss-8-32x56mm-side-focus-riflescope.html

I'm currently shooting 200 meters, and will need a rifle platform that will take me out to 600 meters as my skill (hopefully) progresses. I'm also thinking a muzzle brake, and this is where I would like some input. Some say it's a must for continued shooting, and others say don't bother. I've shot my SPS out of the box and the recoil does seem more than I would like. So i'll post pics as soon as the rifle is complete, i'm just waiting on the stock should be here by the end of the week. All opinions are greatly appreciated ! Go easy on the new guy...

 

[bsc4444]

What and who as far as gunsmith work....trigger,blueprinting action,bedding new stock and barrel:kreiger,bartlein,brux,shilen,douglas ect.
Lots of choices and fun. I might suggest you get a note pad and write down everything you have done and money spent. It is also a great
place to note all your load development. Years from now you can go back and read why you don't have as much hair....good luck.

Brad

 

[Road_Clam]

Ahh yes, speaking of the trigger. Seems as I have Remington's new "X" trigger. Feels pretty good to me (but again, i'm a beginner). If anything it feels a bit too light. The advertised pull in my manual is set to 3.5# but compared to my AR-15 two stage target trigger (also a 3.5#), the Rem X trigger feels lighter ? Maybe it's just the fact the Rem X is a single stage, vs. my AR's a two stage. I'll just have to spend some more time with the X trigger.

 

[NateHaler]

I'm currently shooting 200 meters, and will need a rifle platform that will take me out to 600 meters as my skill (hopefully) progresses. I'm also thinking a muzzle brake, and this is where I would like some input. Some say it's a must for continued shooting, and others say don't bother.

If you're contemplating a muzzle brake, then IMO you're overgunned or understocked. The latter is a distinct possibility with the flimsy POS that comes standard on that rifle. Don't do a brake until you try the new stock. If it doesn't mitigate your recoil discomfort, then I recommend you get a .223 or a 6BR instead. Both are inherently accurate like a .308, and neither -- especially the mouse gun -- will cause you recoil issues unless you have a bad habit, a bad shoulder, or are a pantywaist in general.

Starting with a .308 may not be ideal. I'm not recoil sensitive; in fact, I'm often perceived as quite insensitive in general. :-X I did not use a brake even on my .375 ouch & ouch magnum in a Rem 700 Alaskan Mountain Rifle from their custom shop, i.e. weighed 6.75 lbs without optics. (However, I sold it after shooting it 4, yes four, times, and the masochist who bought it loved the punishing thing, partially because everybody at his local range marveled at the sound and fury.)

I realize that there are brake proponents on this forum. I love brakes when it comes to my car(s) and bicycles (no fixies for this guy). But I hate them on rifles, and condemn them unless your life depends on one as might be the case in the military and your issued gear comprises a .338 L or .50 BMG or M1 Abrams.

So, because you asked: start with the stock. I have a B&C Tactical Medalist -- or whatever the version is with the adjustable cheek and buttplate, and forend rail?. It seems very solid and rigid and pretty heavy. It should be a noteworthy improvement over your tupperware, but Remington provides such stocks to make a price point, not because they're good. But good enough they are for the typical hunter or recreational shooter who might shoot one box of cartridges per year.

As to ring height, I like and use the Burris XTR rings, which come in four different heights. I also like and use the Burris Signature Zee rings, which may come in just one height for 30mm scopes (check via Google maybe), and won't mar your scope tube but they won't be as heavy duty. Measure your scope's objective end (the outside part) with a caliper. Divide by two. The result is the dimension above which you need to raise your scope to clear a no-taper barrel the same diameter as the action. But BOhio, the barrel does taper, and it's not as big as the action, right? Right! So, the dimension mentioned, minus the combined height of your base and rings, and the taper of the barrel, will enable you to figure the clearance you want. I like 1/8". And if it's more than 1/4", then people will stare at you, and worse you'll have trouble getting proper cheekweld unless your stock features an adjustable cheekpiece, which is why I prefer such stocks.

You have your base, so measure the thickness. Now all you need to do is simple math to figure out what rings will work. Ignore "medium" and "high", etc. That stuff is worthless. You need to know the numbers, i.e. the ring height as measured from the base top (bottom of the ring that abuts the base) to the ring centerline.

Good luck.

 

[Road_Clam]

BOhio,
Love your descriptive wit, very enjoyable reading knowledge !

As for my B&H stock, yes it has both cheek riser and length of pull adjustability. Good info on a muzzle brake as well. I fired about 20 rounds in about an hour with the rifle bone stock and I was a bit sore by the end of the session. I did not think of the added recoil resistance of the new B&C stock. Once my rifle is all updated and assembled, i will simply shoot, and then see where we are at. I am reading there is also a mecury tube that can be added to the stock to counteract recoil. I really don't like brakes as they are so annoyingly loud. My AR has a brake on the 16" upper, and my optional AR 24" Varmint upper simply has a crowned muzzle (no brake) Big difference in noise ! Thanks for the guidence, I will keep in touch !

Rich K.

 

[bsc4444]

I think you will get used to the single stage trigger. I to have both.....I understand the "X" triggers are easy to adjust. Are you a reloader.
If so what powder-primer-case-bullet are you going to try first. Keep us in the loop.
Good luck,
Brad

 

[Road_Clam]

I think you will get used to the single stage trigger. I to have both.....I understand the "X" triggers are easy to adjust. Are you a reloader.
If so what powder-primer-case-bullet are you going to try first. Keep us in the loop.
Good luck,
Brad

Brad, my future plan now that i'm into .308 shooting is to learn the reloading skillset. As soon as funds permit I plan on purchasing reloading equipment.

 

[bsc4444]

Good deal....you picked a good site to belong to. Everyone started from scratch, some didn't have this forum to ask and learn. This will be
very helpful as you progress. One hint everyone is not made of money and there are a lot of dies ect. that you can start with. We all walked before we ran. Hell I've been doing this for 35 years and am now just trotting.

Brad

 

[Pappy42]

Personally, I think that you have started in the right area with the stock. Spring for the new stock to be bedded. Then the optics and mount.

Run your factory barrel and trigger until you are positive that they are holding you back. Wind and mirage will mess with you far more than accuracy or lack there of.

Concerning the brake; a lot of ranges don't allow them and I don't think that the brake will be allowed in prone competitions where there are multiple shooters in close proximity.

 

[Road_Clam]

Thanks for the input pappy42, one of my goals is to engage in my lgc's high power competitions. Again im a beginner shooting approx 3.5" groups at 200m so i have a long way to go. Right now its all about observing and conversating with the expert shooters and practice, practice!

 

[Road_Clam]

Had a chance a few days ago to spend some quality time with my Rem .308 . This is my first larger caliber long gun, and I must say she's got some kick. Not as bad as i expected. What bothers me more than my shoulder is my right elbow bouncing off the wood bench. Do any of you bench shooters wear thin elbow pads ? I placed a sweatshirt under my right elbow and that was much more comfortable. In hindsight I shot ok for my current ability, I was shooting 6" groups @ 200 meters. One thing for sure I HATE the oem plasti-flexi stock. I am SO waiting for my B&C series 5 Medalist ! I am a pistol grip type guy, and the traditional hunting stock just isn't for me as it cocks my wrist at a very uncomfortable angle. I was shooting off a very low picnic table which was also uncomfortable. So hopefully after the addition of my B&C stock, and my club getting out the correct shooting benches at our 200 meter range, I should be holding and shooting much more comfortable, and get those groupings tighter.

BTW I bought 5 boxes of Aguila .308 ammo and that stuff is %$#@^ garbage ! I had 4 FTF's in 34 rounds ! I actually sent an email to ammunitionstore.com in reguards to the issue.

 

[PhulesAu]

Academy sells excellent elbow pads, in the sports dept. If you need "factory" ammo, go with Federal. it's been very constant. You'll never be happy until you get rid of that gummy bear stock.

 

[Road_Clam]

Well, all finished. Spent the last few days fitting the stock. The trigger guard was a bit too tight, and I free floated the barrel for a better fit. There was a small amount of contact at the front of the stock. So I did about 2 hrs of light sanding and fitting, and The B&C fits perfect. I have about .050" of free float gap. The adjustability of the Tactical stock is amazing, and very nice quality for the money ! Close my eyes, settle in behind the rifle, open my eyes, and a perfect sight picture. I love the grip ergonomics as well. So here's a few pics:

 

[NateHaler]

So get thee to a range with better ammo and shoot some groups. However, before you do so, I suggest you do not shoot with the bipod legs extended that high. Mamma mia, are you laying in tall weeds or shooting over piles of old National Geographic magazines?

Get those legs down, and remove a lot of potential for likely wobble. 8)

 

[Road_Clam]

So get thee to a range with better ammo and shoot some groups. However, before you do so, I suggest you do not shoot with the bipod legs extended that high. Mamma mia, are you laying in tall weeds or shooting over piles of old National Geographic magazines?

Get those legs down, and remove a lot of potential for likely wobble. 8)

Agreed, I simply extended the legs for a camera shot. To shoot at my range the legs need to be compressed to min height as you suggest. (and I even wish the legs were about an inch shorter )

 

[NateHaler]

Sounds like you might want to add one of these to your gear bag.