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Slip 2000 and carbon

jpretle

Silver $$ Contributor
Has anyone had experience using this product, for carbon removal in the chamber neck and throat areas???
 
I would not spend one dime on it. It wont dissolve dust. I spent like 10.oo dollars on a bottle and soap and water is more powerful. It wont even cut dirt on my floor in my shop,I tried it.
 
I feel the best on the market right now is KG Industries products and Bore Tech.. I've heard good about Montana Extreme but don't know personally..
 
Go by your neighborhood car shop and get a piston. I always have them around. Put your solvent in question on the carbon and see what dissolves it. Sea foam and any type of top engine cleaner works well.
 
Go by your neighborhood car shop and get a piston. I always have them around. Put your solvent in question on the carbon and see what dissolves it. Sea foam and any type of top engine cleaner works well.

you use seafoam straight? on a patch or brush
 
jpretle said:
Thanks for the replies. What is best way to remove it, then??

It depends on how bad the carbon in the throat is.

For normal cleaning I use Bore Tech Eliminator. It is a superb all in one cleaner, it removes carbon and copper. It has no smell and I can even do it in the house when the garage is too cold or hot. I check with a bore scope after I'm done so I know it works.

I have used Montana Extreme the stuff works, but it has a smell that when it first hit me a bell when off in my head "DANGER WILL ROGERS!!!" It something that you definitely don't want to smell unless you got some spare neurons.

I also polish my bore every 300 rounds with Iosso. I wrap a patch around a brush, put the Iosso cream on it and push it down the bore back and forth about 20-30 times. It should be so tight that you need to put some muscle in it and you should work up a sweat. After that you gotta make sure you get it (Iosso or JB Bore Paste all out). Clean it again with Eliminator. After you're finished and you get nice and clean patches, wrap a dry patch around the bush again and push it down the bore again. You'll be surprised but you'll get more black stuff. So keep doing it (for me it takes 10-12 patches) until the patch comes out clean. At that point you're done, until next time.

After polishing the bore you'll need to fire about 10 shots so the barrel gets fowled and settles down.


Kindest regards,
Joe
 
As Dusty mentioned , anytime you are wondering if a snake oil will touch hard carbon simply try it on an engine component like a valve , combustion chamber or piston top... If it works on that type of carbon then you are onto something.. With regards to copper I perform the same test on a penny , if it cleans the penny to a brand new finish I know it is stripping copper.

If you've ever had to clean carbon from a piston top or cimbustion chamber from a cylinder head you know how hard it is.. Seems like it's only 5 minutes away from being formed into a diamond lol.
 
Patch700 said:
As Dusty mentioned , anytime you are wondering if a snake oil will touch hard carbon simply try it on an engine component like a valve , combustion chamber or piston top... If it works on that type of carbon then you are onto something..

Patch,
You're going to love this. I'm conducting exactly that kind of test right now with Berryman Chem Dip (see
).

I have a barrel that I had removed, I plugged it and filled it with this stuff and let it sit overnight. I've cleaned the barrel but I haven't had the time to remount it and take it to the range. I'm very hopeful.

Regards,

Joe
 
Joe how do you like the smell of that carb dip? To me it makes me ill and if you get it on you it is tough to get that odor off of you.
 
jonbearman said:
Joe how do you like the smell of that carb dip? To me it makes me ill and if you get it on you it is tough to get that odor off of you.

Hi Jon,
Good to hear from you again. I used the Chem Dip while there was a good breeze in the backyard and made sure that I was upwind so I didn't get a single whiff. I don't know what it smells like, but several of the videos mentioned that it didn't smell good, so I didn't want to verify that. I also used rubber gloves.

The barrel that I'm testing is a 308 30" Bartlein 1:10 twist that went south after 1700 rounds and started to shoot 3/4" groups. I know now it was a carbon ring in the throat because I wasn't using Iosso bore polish properly. Well, now I know. (ShootDots and a friend from the range schooled me). All the same, I thought it would make an interesting test case to see if the Chem Dip works. Shoving the patch wrapped around the brush is not for the fainthearted. I worked up a real sweat doing that. So, if I can resolve the problem chemically instead of using brute force you know which I'm going to pick. Anything that makes things easier, faster or more precise captures my dollars. If I can re-rehabilitate this barrel it would be nice.

Have you had any experience with it? Please share.

I'll keep you posted. I've been busy getting ready for tomorrow's 600 yard match here in Houston. New barrel and virgin Lapua brass. I feel like I'm skating on really thin ice.

Kindest regards,
Joe

P.S. The Chem Dip sells for $18 at the local Wal-Mart.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone had experience using this product, for carbon removal in the chamber neck and throat areas???

To remove carbon, the parts must be submerged in the Slip 2000; or, the barrel/chamber must be filled. If you plug the muzzle and fill the barrel with S2K and let it sit overnight, when the plug is pulled, there won't be much carbon left to remove. And, the Slip 2000 thus used is usable again. It's very easy on the throat! ;) Putting the stuff on patches and/or brushes is not going to work. Good shootin'! RG
 

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