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Skim bedding?

Putting together this rifle using a stock thats second hand. The previous action was another 700 clone which seems to be a pretty good match other than the recoil lug.

Sooooo with that said should I just re bed the front recoil portion and send it. Or possibly grind out .125 of the entire length and skim bed the entire thing.

Thinking about just bedding the lug and seeing how it shoots. Kinda sucks as if it doesn't work well I would need to probably clearance the recoil lug area again to rebed fully.

I can say whomever bed this from the beginning its a thing of beauty. Kinda hate to hack it up lol.

Thoughts ???

thanks
 
Putting together this rifle using a stock thats second hand. The previous action was another 700 clone which seems to be a pretty good match other than the recoil lug.

Sooooo with that said should I just re bed the front recoil portion and send it. Or possibly grind out .125 of the entire length and skim bed the entire thing.

Thinking about just bedding the lug and seeing how it shoots. Kinda sucks as if it doesn't work well I would need to probably clearance the recoil lug area again to rebed fully.

I can say whomever bed this from the beginning its a thing of beauty. Kinda hate to hack it up lol.

Thoughts ???

thanks
Try the recoil lug first man before hacking it up
if it dont shoot
proceed, you can always hack it up later after some preliminary testing
---
I dont know how many bedded stocks I have that I have simply swapped another 700 action into it
and have it shoot just fine.
---
Be sure to relieve front/sides/bottom of recoil lug after bedding
 
Since the the stock bedding should be a perfect match to the individual receiver profile, the best results will come from rebedding it.

Rebeds tend to creep forward unless you allow plenty of room at the back of the lug mortise for new bedding compound. For clearance on the lug, .020 is a good minimum for the sides, bottom and front. The only surface the lug should be bearing against is the rear.

There's more but this will get you headed in the right direction.

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
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One thing that some may not be aware of, particularly about factory actions is that they are slightly warped, because they are machined before heat treating and because of the different rates of cooling between thicker and thinner sections heat treating causes some distortion that varies from action to action, which is why one needs to bed for each action. It is also why the fit between an action and a perfectly straight milled action bedding block can be improved by skim bedding. These days, for a wooden stock, unless my accuracy requirement was modest, I would take the extra time to pillar bed. In any case a very nice looking bedding job can have serious issues, which is why they should all be checked with a dial indicator. There have been threads about this, if you are not familiar with how it is done.
 
Shoot it first, spend money later if you have to. I have listened to the do’s and not do’s on a lot of forums! My gut feeling is shoot it! I used to get worked up about all the the millions of opinions , they all want your money. It’s worked for me 99.9 precent of the time.
 

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