I have no problems grinding on an unfinished stock for that seamless look...I get REALLY close to that using the jig and no chances at all of having to refinish an entire stock when installing on a finished stock...just my preference. Oh, and a bandsaw works great to trim excess off before grinding. Saves grinding 1/4” or more of rubber at times.
Sizing a recoil pad
- Thread starter farmerjohn
- Start date
spitfire_er
Silver $$ Contributor
I've done quite a few of these and doing it the same way, I might be able to turn out 3 an hour, but they wouldn't look very good and I do have the right tools!
Takes time. If you need to plug holes, measure, re-drill, find some soap, slit the holes, drink coffee, screw on the pad, tape it off, and start grinding. Can take 15-20 minutes just to get ready to start sanding. I want my pads with a nice finish and a flush fit to where you can't feel the transition.
It was my job and one of the best money makers for a gunsmith in the last century. Most standard rifles were produced sans pad and I had shelves filled with Pachmayr's offerings just for the purpose. Because I was affiliated with a busy retailer, I had the opportunity to do a lot of work. In August, September, and October, I often worked seven days a week and started early and stayed late. Custom work started after November and ran into the summer. Later, I severed ties with the retail business and since then, I do just a few pads a year. WH
Yeah, you really need the jig to easily be able to do a professional job.
Too difficult to get the toe and comb angles precise freehand, the jig is cheap enough...
The "trick" is blending the toe angle which can be steep on some stocks into the sides of the pad- much easier with the jig to keep the pad square to the belt when it needs to be. Done many dozens of them, not difficult but i wouldn't do it without the jig.
Too difficult to get the toe and comb angles precise freehand, the jig is cheap enough...
The "trick" is blending the toe angle which can be steep on some stocks into the sides of the pad- much easier with the jig to keep the pad square to the belt when it needs to be. Done many dozens of them, not difficult but i wouldn't do it without the jig.
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
alot of good tips in this thread. I stick a 2" wide piece of painters tape to the stock- makes it easier to layout for me and easier to erase than wood if needed. i use chalk dust for my chalkline to make the scribe line easier to see.
If the old pad is asymmetrical, even the slightest, your new pad will end up left being right, which is wrong. Find a picture of a pad grinding jig and make one out of shop scraps. Wood will work, though obviously not as firm as metal. I made one of scrap 3/8" aluminum. Be sure to set heel and toe angles as precisely as possible. Not much amiss stands out so much as missed heel and toe angles. The sides of the pad are left at 90 degrees.
If the pads are asymmetrical-even the slightest- your set-up will grind the new pad's left side to match the right side of the old. Not what you had in mind.
Find a picture of a pad grinding jig and copy. One quarter or 3/8" aluminum works well. Make the heel and toe angle settings as close and accurately as possible. Nothing jumps out screaming "amateur" more then missing those angles. The sides are normally kept at 90 degrees unless grinding for a Harry Lawson or Gale Bartlett stock. Dating myself here.
Luck,
S
The only guy I know personally that ever talked about doing this has now passed away but he told me he could do a professional job putting an oversized one on the gun then using making tape on the stock and useing a circular grinder. He swore it would be as good as factory and I trusted him. I just never had the need. Now I need his expertese and he is gone!
didn't realize this was an old thread before I responded!
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Im pretty sure he started on page 451 today. Already got me a few times reading old stuff
This is the way I did one of my Gordy customs. When he got the stock to put it together, he said it looked better than 90% of the gunsmith jobs. Take your time, go slow, fit it often, and take pride knowing you did it yourself. It's really easy.
I am working on a stock for a friend that used Gorilla Glue to attach a new recoil pad to the stock before trimming it to size. No way to remove it without cutting it off, so I am attempting to shape the recoil pad and refinish the stock while it is attached.
Doable, but a pain in the arse.
Doable, but a pain in the arse.
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
yeah id never glue one on. I wonder how it would look if you get it close then sand it with stock, in the same direction as stock grain
spitfire_er
Silver $$ Contributor
I just pick up one of these. I guess they are suppose to be the ticket!
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