Sizing a recoil pad

[farmerjohn]

Is there anyone who can take an old recoil pad and grind a new to the exact size of the old one? My local wood butcher wants two weeks and way too much to do it. Tried to get a tool from Brownells but they've been out of stock for ever, maybe I'm missing something but if you have the old one and it fits perfectly and has hard spacers, how hard can it be.. the video that Brownells showed them doing it in less than 10 minutes... John

 

[Preacher]

That should not be a big deal, trace the outline on the new pad, adjust for the angles, get to cutting slowly..

 

[drano38]

Then rifle pads should work well.
I've fitted a couple shotgun pads, and they're a bit harder to trim down. The thick, soft material just doesn't trim easily. I think put 2 layers of scotch tape on the stock, attached the pad, then used a random orbit sander to sand it down. When close, use finer grits to get a smooth finish.
Of course, don't scratch the stock!

 

[farmerjohn]

Why can't I take 2 screws with wing nuts and washers and clamp the old to the new one back to back and use the old one for my pattern? John

 

[spitfire_er]

Doesn't take long to fit one roughly, takes time to make it seemless with a good finish.

 

[outasite`08]

Is there anyone who can take an old recoil pad and grind a new to the exact size of the old one? My local wood butcher wants two weeks and way too much to do it. Tried to get a tool from Brownells but they've been out of stock for ever, maybe I'm missing something but if you have the old one and it fits perfectly and has hard spacers, how hard can it be.. the video that Brownells showed them doing it in less than 10 minutes... John

farmer, I just did this not too long ago. I took the stock off the gun first. Sav. 24 o/u. Put in padded vise removed old pad and installed new one. Traced around new one and removed. Made up a way to mount pad on a piece of scrap wood,smaller then the pad. Back in the vise clamped to the scrap and used a sander to get close. Then remounted on gun, used the tape idea and finished with files. Hope some of this helps.Turned out good enough for me and way less $. Jeff

 

[farmerjohn]

Thanks to all of you guys for the input, I was wondering if anyone on the board here could do it if I sent them a new pad and the old one and make it work? I've got a 721 Remington in 300H&H that I've had since the 60s and my pet DRT mod 70 in a 300H&H that was made in 1950 and both of them have the factory pads and they have gotten harder than a rock. I was going to get them fixed before deer season, tempted to just take the old pads off and get me a slip on shotgun boot and put on them for the time being... John

 

[Fast14riot]

The last one I did, 99.5% of grinding was done off the stock in about 15 minutes. The last final bit took maybe another 30 with fitting and hand sanding.

 

[farmerjohn]

Y'all talked me into it, I'm going order me a couple of pads from, I guess Brownells, and see what I can do

 

[msalm]

Farmer, I have the grinding jig and a good belt sander. I can do it for you if you’d like. Only problem I see is if your stock is not symmetrical l-r, you will not be able to put them face to face and scribe. You need to make a template off the old pad or off the buttstock (better) and attach that to the new pad.

 

[Will Henry]

I don't know how many hundreds of pads I have installed. All were ground on the stock with disc and belt sanders. Two layers of masking tape on the stock Grind through the top layer and touch the bottom layer. Then finish. Generally did about three pads to the hour. Some minor tricks to get the desired finish. WH

 

[dolek]

I just did this . I epoxied the holes in the old pad and then screwed the old to the new . I used the Pachmayr old english style grind to fit , easy to work with . I left it just a little proud and finished up by hand .

Only problem I see is if your stock is not symmetrical l-r, you will not be able to put them face to face and scribe.

Also, I had this issue...but did not realize why until msalm posted this great info. I fought the screws thinking it was my holes .

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Screw it on to the stock, scribe it with a sharp scribe or punch. Make or buy an adjustable mount so you can match the angle of the toe. Use a vertical belt sander to grind to your scribe line. Like many things its quick and easy if you have made the investment in tools and experience. If you have not, its likely cheaper to pay someone that has.

 

[farmerjohn]

Farmer, I have the grinding jig and a good belt sander. I can do it for you if you’d like. Only problem I see is if your stock is not symmetrical l-r, you will not be able to put them face to face and scribe. You need to make a template off the old pad or off the buttstock (better) and attach that to the new pad.

Screw it on to the stock, scribe it with a sharp scribe or punch. Make or buy an adjustable mount so you can match the angle of the toe. Use a vertical belt sander to grind to your scribe line. Like many things its quick and easy if you have made the investment in tools and experience. If you have not, its likely cheaper to pay someone that has.

@msalm, that is some great advice! Had to think about that for minute, I'll bet Remington and Winchester weren't real good at drilling those holes on a perfect center line of the stock. And Alex, I figure that is also great advice. I am going to sleep on this and again guys, thank ya'll very much for all the input...John

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I never try to discourage people from teaching themselves how to do things. I am self taught. A butt pad is cheap give it a try. But I also understand that theres more to it than how long it takes. Good luck with your project!

 

[shortgrass]

Screw it on to the stock, scribe it with a sharp scribe or punch. Make or buy an adjustable mount so you can match the angle of the toe. Use a vertical belt sander to grind to your scribe line. Like many things its quick and easy if you have made the investment in tools and experience. If you have not, its likely cheaper to pay someone that has.

AS above, but you can also use a stationary disc sander.

 

[msalm]

@msalm, that is some great advice! Had to think about that for minute, I'll bet Remington and Winchester weren't real good at drilling those holes on a perfect center line of the stock. And Alex, I figure that is also great advice. I am going to sleep on this and again guys, thank ya'll very much for all the input...John

It’s not just the holes, chances are side to side is not a ‘mirror image’ of each other. I would imagine if I had just the old pad (to duplicate the toe angle) and an accurate tracing of the buttstock itself I could grind a new pad awfully close. Probably just glue the trace on the new pad and use the old one to set the toe angle.

I know grinding on the stock works really well, I just have put a scuff or two on stocks even with tape and I much prefer grinding separately...just a preference only and it might only be my ham fisted impatience that gets in the way.

 

[msinc]

I must be missing something here...when fitting a new pad the old one {and often there is no old one} has nothing to do with it. New pad is screwed to the stock and marked. Remove and attach to jig, set angles and grind. Reinstall. That's it. Old pad doesn't enter the picture even if there is one.
Is it that you don't want to ship the stocks to someone?? I suppose maybe it could be done, but it is better to have the stock and the new pad to make sure it is going to be perfect.
Not trying to discourage you from doing this yourself, but for sure get the right tools {jig and square} and equipment {vertical belt sander} to properly do this. If you have never fitted one before trying to tape up the stock and grind it in place is probably not a good idea and could be a recipe to damage the stock.
I'll be happy to fit two pads for you, but I will need the stocks and the new pads, or I can get the new pads if you know which ones you want.

 

[dolek]

It’s not just the holes, chances are side to side is not a ‘mirror image’ of each other. I would imagine if I had just the old pad (to duplicate the toe angle) and an accurate tracing of the buttstock itself I could grind a new pad awfully close. Probably just glue the trace on the new pad and use the old one to set the toe angle.

I know grinding on the stock works really well, I just have put a scuff or two on stocks even with tape and I much prefer grinding separately...just a preference only and it might only be my ham fisted impatience that gets in the way.

That is exactly what I ran into , not a "Mirror Image" . I usually grind mine on the stock , but the cheek piece on this rifle was going to make that tricky so I opted for grinding it off the stock . It was much easier than I thought and turned out just fine .

I keep seeing mention of jigs and such , I guess it depends on skill level and what a person is comfortable with but I see no need to tool up for two recoil pads . A 3" x 21" hand held belt sander clamped to a bench will work if you have good hand/eye coordination .

 

[biggun2869]

I don't know how many hundreds of pads I have installed. All were ground on the stock with disc and belt sanders. Two layers of masking tape on the stock Grind through the top layer and touch the bottom layer. Then finish. Generally did about three pads to the hour. Some minor tricks to get the desired finish. WH

I have never done it Will but a "gunsmith" friend who has since passed away told me the exact procedure you describe and had told me he had actually done it. He didn't persue it as a career but he went to a gunsmith school some where in Colorado many years ago. Gary