could some-one tell me about sinclair flash hole reamer for lapua brass 6mmbr do you need it
sinclair flash hole
- Thread starter shaunharkin
- Start date
IME, you do not need to do anything at all to Lapua flasholes.
OTOH, I use the Forster tool to uniform the primer pockets.
But flasholes....no. They're pretty much perfect straight out of the box.
Mike
OTOH, I use the Forster tool to uniform the primer pockets.
But flasholes....no. They're pretty much perfect straight out of the box.
Mike
Shaun, a lot of the early Norma and Lapua 6BR brass had flash holes that were ever so slightly undersize and they will grab the decapping pin right out of the die. It gets very frustrating,unfortunately, I have a lot of this brass).
The problem came from the brass having a metric dimensioned hole and die makers using an inch based dimension decapping pin. More recent brass,the last several years) doesn't suffer from this problem. So, if you have newer brass, consider that tool an interesting curiosity; if you have older brass, it's a real aggravation saver.
The problem came from the brass having a metric dimensioned hole and die makers using an inch based dimension decapping pin. More recent brass,the last several years) doesn't suffer from this problem. So, if you have newer brass, consider that tool an interesting curiosity; if you have older brass, it's a real aggravation saver.
AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
German is correct.
I would only add that some recent Lapua 6BR cases I've bought have had a few 'D' shaped flash holes and some significant internal burrs on the floor of the case head. I always open the flash holes to .062 to start with anyway and cut a bevel on the internal floor of the case head so it wasn't a big deal...just surprising.
The factory annealing is also quite a bit different than before.
For what it's worth. -Al
I would only add that some recent Lapua 6BR cases I've bought have had a few 'D' shaped flash holes and some significant internal burrs on the floor of the case head. I always open the flash holes to .062 to start with anyway and cut a bevel on the internal floor of the case head so it wasn't a big deal...just surprising.
The factory annealing is also quite a bit different than before.
For what it's worth. -Al
thanks you for your help
thank you
Forum Boss
Administrator
The spec on the Lapua "small BR" flash hole is 1.5 mm or .059 inches.
Both Redding and Fortster offer .057 decapping pins that will work just fine. BUT... sometimes the dies will ship with the wrong-size pins and you need to ask the die makers for replacement.
Lapua flashholes are not drilled. The are formed by a punch coming up from the bottom to meet a punch coming down from the top. Some lots in the couple years have had a little flake,sort of like a quarter moon) that was left in the flashhole. You should remove this. You Don't need to reem the flashhole larger. You can use an inexpensive "pin vise" to remove the flake.
See: http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/12/26/inspect-your-flash-holes-on-new-brass/
http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/03/30/brppc-flash-hole-deburring-tips/
Use a #53 pin vise bit for .0595.
Both Redding and Fortster offer .057 decapping pins that will work just fine. BUT... sometimes the dies will ship with the wrong-size pins and you need to ask the die makers for replacement.
Lapua flashholes are not drilled. The are formed by a punch coming up from the bottom to meet a punch coming down from the top. Some lots in the couple years have had a little flake,sort of like a quarter moon) that was left in the flashhole. You should remove this. You Don't need to reem the flashhole larger. You can use an inexpensive "pin vise" to remove the flake.
See: http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/12/26/inspect-your-flash-holes-on-new-brass/
http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/03/30/brppc-flash-hole-deburring-tips/
Use a #53 pin vise bit for .0595.
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