sick and tired of factory barrel removal

[dalewoolumjr.]

What I do in the shop is turn down the recoil lug and part in the middle. Saves barrel and action just throw away the recoil lug.

Dale

 

[matthias]

Good idea. Had not thought of that, Hss tool and get rid of the lug.

 

[AckleymanII]

Hydraulic 20 ton Press Watch for sales at harbor freight, get the 25% off cupon.

 

[Gun Smith]

I used aluminum blocks bored oversize and JB weld or Acra Gel to mold a perfect fit. Takes a lot of time to do, but is superior to anything else I tried. Powdered rosin in the epoxy blocks, and they don't move. Did a few 1917 Enfields once with a long cheater bar. Man, did they screech when they finally broke loose, but didn't move in the blocks. Epoxy is your friend!

I used an adjustable center height jig to hold the barrel between centers while the epoxy sets up. I fit a 1/8" piece of cardboard between the two halves of the block to separate them. I used masking tape to hold in the goop, waxed everything good to keep the goop from sticking in unwanted places. When set, I would just tap the block towards the muzzle end of barrel if tapered, then pry the two halves apart. Had a similar set up for revolver barrels also. Works great.

I used poured lead blocks for some FAL's I barreled. That worked great with rosin too.

 

[Richard Jones]

if you have to use wood, try something with interlocking grain, like elm, gum, persimmon, or my favorite, dogwood. I think you could break a vise before you bust a piece of dogwood...............

 

[rlb52]

Machine a relief cut in barrel vise so recoil lug fits in it. This will keep vise from turning on barrel.

 

[Scott Harris]

It is hard to beat the "steel" bushings rosin, and the Brownells barrel vice". I have both aluminum and steel bushings cut for the factory tapers. Steel by far is better.

Brute force can ruin both barrels and actions. I look at factory barrels as the lessor expensive part. They may have to become sacrificed in the removal process. It is not worth ruining an action. Take a parting tool and make a cut in front of the recoil lug. When the tension is relieved the barrel will screw off by hand.

Nat Lambeth

+1 a few barrels are such a pain, it's just not worth the time. put a relief cut and it will come right off.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If the customer insists on getting their tomato stake back give it back to em turned down in front of the lug if thats what it takes to get it off. Wasting hours of your valuable time over a useless barrel is not good.