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Shoulder on a Hornet?

The Hornet is misunderstood by a large majority of folks. The history of it is quite interesting if your so inclined to read up on it, I will skip the history lesson.
There is no magic involved in reloading it if you understand it. Yes it is some what delicate case, not for the heavy handed individuals. It’s kind of like what I tell folks about the Contenders, anything you know for a fact about a bolt action rifle, forget it because it probably doesn’t apply with the TC.
Anything can be loaded down, but that isn’t the point at least for me. If you want a good, reloadable 22, the CCM case was it. Basically a center fire 22 mag. It was either to late or to early coming out. Brass quality was the major down fall. It wouldn’t replace the Hornet but it is still a grand idea in my book.
 
I’m gonna try this shoulder idea.
I’ve posted on the other forum about WTB a pair of reamers in 20 caliber Hornet. I’m open to K or Ackley.
 
Has anyone made a .20 cal. on the .17 Hornady Hornet? Looks like that would be a good one.
 
Has anyone made a .20 cal. on the .17 Hornady Hornet? Looks like that would be a good one.
I have two CZ 527 17 Hornets and I've often thought of having one of them rebarreled to a 20 Hornady Hornet. I use a Redding bushing die to reload my 17 Hornet ammo and all it would require is a little neck honing and a different bushing to work for a 20 HH. The 24gr Hornady NTX bullet and the little Hornet case would likely make for a great combo.

Probably the biggest thing that has prevented me from doing so is both of my little CZ 17 Hornets shoot extremely well with hand loads and even really well with factory ammo and since I have a couple other 20 cal CF rifles, 20-222 & 20-250, other than satisfying my own curiosity, I don't know that I'd gain a single thing so it's a project I doubt I'll ever make happen.

I think it would definitely be a fun project and my guess is it would take very little load work to get a 20 HH dialed in so hopefully someone does one because I'd be very interested in hearing how it worked out.
 
I plan to build a 20 caliber Hornet.
I have two of the CZ 527, both in 22 Hornet. One I have rebarreled with Shilen barrel in 22 Hornet and the other in 5.7x28 Vance.
Look on this forum for the 5.7x28 Vance
 
Google "To Bee or not to Bee?" You will find an interesting article regarding downloading the 222/223 with blue dot to Bee velocity

When I read that article in my magazine I re-read it and thought about it. I loaded 6 rounds to try and have been hooked ever since and for sure will have a good supply if I hit the dog fields.
 
When I read that article in my magazine I re-read it and thought about it. I loaded 6 rounds to try and have been hooked ever since and for sure will have a good supply if I hit the dog fields.

Would anyone care to share a link to this article on downloading the .222/.223? Can't seem to find it.
 
I like the idea of using Blue Dot also. Always been clean burning in pistol calibers. I'm going to try the 35 gr. V-Max with a Blue Dot load that approximates the Hornet, but in a .222. Ought to have good results on closer ones that we always encounter going in and out of PD fields. 1/2 MOA the article mentions would be sufficient for those shots.
 
For my suppressed loads in a Hornet, I use Accurate #2 at 2 grains and 55 grain Sierra so that it still feels through the magazine. Also 12 twist for the heavier bullets.
 
I have built a 20 Cal Ackley hornet on a CZ 527 with a Shilen 12 twist barrel.
20 caliber to use the 39 grain Sierra bullets.
Ackley to use a shoulder.
And fire formed 25 cases, this weekend, I will be testing.
 
Late to the party, but if you talk to K Hornet shooters, most will tell you that they suffer very little accuracy loss when fire forming from plain Hornet brass. Only normal things associated with velocity drop.

In that sense, shoulder shape is not that important, unless 1/4 MOA difference will break your heart. It does not for me.
 
Late to the party, but if you talk to K Hornet shooters, most will tell you that they suffer very little accuracy loss when fire forming from plain Hornet brass. Only normal things associated with velocity drop.

In that sense, shoulder shape is not that important, unless 1/4 MOA difference will break your heart. It does not for me.



I totally agree on the accuracy issue, but with a caveat. Depending on the brass brand I have to fire form with reduced loads approaching 1/2 that of my final optimum weight and with lighter projectiles as well. Oiling the necks before fire forming helps too but Nosler brass ( annealed ) still cracks about 1/4 of total brass k'd. Prvi is much better at less than 10%, and Hornady is total junk with about 10% having loose primer pockets right out of the bag. All of that to say that once a fire forming load is established it is certainly within 20% of the accuracy that the rifle has with full power loads.
 

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