Should I use Templiaq to set annealing machine?
- Thread starter zanemoseley
- Start date
Ok so I'm thoroughly confused lol. So I guess I'll shoot for getting a slight brass glow in a dark room the back off a 1/4 second or so. I ended up also getting the tempilac 750 so I'll see what that tells me with the above visual criteria. Building the machine was a bit of a challenge but fun, got a feeling deciding the annealing times is gonna be the really fun part.
Lapua40X
California Hunter Education Instructor
If I ever publish a reloading manual I'm gonna ask your permission to put that statement on the cover.
Perhaps not rocket science. But it's important to remember that it is science.
It is not a science to 99.9% of reloaders - it is a simple craft.
When you own an Infrared optical thermometer and a metal hardness gauge, THEN it is a science.
I didn't mean reloaders are scientists; there's plenty of proof that many of us never made it through 7th grade science. Do they even teach science anymore?
It was the physics of annealing to which I make reference, not the procedure many reloaders use.
Well I set up my annealer today. I tried the dark room method and the tempilaq paint and I have to say I like the paint method better. Even in a totally dark basement I had a hard time distinguishing when the brass has a slight glow and flame color wasn't fun to try and read either.
I painted a stripe on the inside of a half dozen necks. I preferred to turn the lights off and just use the flashlight to see inside, with my black betty annealer clone its easy as can be to see right into the neck. The only tricky part was perhaps deciding if I wanted to set it to right when the paint started to melt or when it was thoroughly melted, I opted for thoroughly melted which worked out to 5.25 seconds in the flame for my .308 lake city brass or an even 20 on the speed control.
I painted a stripe on the inside of a half dozen necks. I preferred to turn the lights off and just use the flashlight to see inside, with my black betty annealer clone its easy as can be to see right into the neck. The only tricky part was perhaps deciding if I wanted to set it to right when the paint started to melt or when it was thoroughly melted, I opted for thoroughly melted which worked out to 5.25 seconds in the flame for my .308 lake city brass or an even 20 on the speed control.
I think it's all in the flame and the tip angle .
No different the using cutting torch or welding . A point flame is hotter then a dove tail flame and direction it is hitting the case . Short cases like the dasher with a short turned neck is a problem . Tip flame and the angle is hard to set. When you bring the shoulder angle up to the right temperature the neck is too hot.
To anneal all you have to do is bring brass to temperature Time doesn't matter. Larry
No different the using cutting torch or welding . A point flame is hotter then a dove tail flame and direction it is hitting the case . Short cases like the dasher with a short turned neck is a problem . Tip flame and the angle is hard to set. When you bring the shoulder angle up to the right temperature the neck is too hot.
To anneal all you have to do is bring brass to temperature Time doesn't matter. Larry
Wow............ a great many metallurgists will be surprised at this revelation. Do you plan to publish your findings?
Why would I want to do that? I'm not trying to normalize the whole case. But thickness of the brass and the tip and angle you can't get the neck too hot. Larry
Guys,
Question,
What to do, if you are severely COLOR BLIND,
like Red, Green, Brown Grey etc.
I would have to go with the different tempilac paints,
or don't anneal at all????????
Tia,
Don
Question,
What to do, if you are severely COLOR BLIND,
like Red, Green, Brown Grey etc.
I would have to go with the different tempilac paints,
or don't anneal at all????????
Tia,
Don
Don.
You can figure out how to stop lead from sticking to the cases .and anneal with lead.
Better yet take some junk cases and try different methods . Carbon blacking the cases can be one .
My self I like watching for color inside the neck. Normally that is the thinness and smallest diameter of the case so less heat is needed. Larry
What ever it is it has rules and factors; unknown to reloaders, they do not know the rules and factors that govern annealing.
And then there is matter, if it takes up space and has weight it matters.
F. Guffey
itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
And how does this contribute to the annealing discussion?
I don't know if it is just me, but virtually every response you provide, on any topic, leaves me less informed than before I read it.
No, it's not just you.
No, it is not you - it is a game that he plays - it is boring.
There is no discussion; Internet reloaders are claiming they are case annealing experts. I do not see how; reminds me of fire forming, all a reloader has to do to be a fire former is chamber a round and pull the trigger. And then they walk around talking/telling themselves how bad they are. Fire forming is cute but there is case forming, I form first then fire, I eliminate fire forming. I eject a case and then it becomes a once fired case.
Discussion: There is no discussion, me? That is different, I sat down and studied annealing, and then I decided there were rules and factors. In the absence of rules and factors we have Internet annealing. This thread will began and end like all the rest of the threads with reloaders hollering and jumping up and down "PICK ME!" PICK ME!" And I do not care who they pick someone should say something like: "This is what you need to know before your start annealing". 'Understand' could be added but I do not want to overload anyone.
F. Guffey
This thread has gone on for 38 responses and at the end it appears those that need the most help would consider they are too polarized to be helped. I can make any annealing system work and at the end it is decided it is my fault most are receiving no benefit from 36 responses.
F. Guffey
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