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Should I use Rust-Oleum to paint my precision rifle.

I have a MPA Lite chassis that I use with a Tikka T3x .223 Varmint as a practice rifle. Very nice setup and shoots lights out.

I recently was surprised to see this damage to the chassis's paint job which is Cerakoted. Looking back for a cause I figured out that this was due to a one time damage due to me carrying the gun on my side while I was walking between shooting berms. The culprit was the pocket clip of a Benchmade pocket knife which must have rubbed against the gun. No hard rubbing, just light contact or it would have been obvious to me.

I normally would ignore slight blemish to a gun since well it is a gun but this is pretty extensive. I've called MPA and was quoted a price of $135 plus return shipping. I was just about to do this but I was wondering if it would be worthwhile? Basically even the folder is also rubbing the Cerakote off.

My thought is if the Cerakote is this flimsy, why not just use a can of RUST-OLEUM CAMOUFLAGE 2x ULTRA COVER? Would be interested in what people think? DSC_5311s.jpg
 
I spray paint most of my rifles.. It works great and easy to touch up cause its goin to scratch if you use the rifle.
It might not look as good as a fancy coating job.. but its alot cheaper
 
I was just surprised how weak that Cerakote was... If it does not change, I would probably be OK with it but I am thinking it is going to get much worse since this thing is pretty new....
 
Cerakote is unbelievable tough if applied right. I used to hate the stuff until I found a guy who applied it properly. Big difference in how the stuff comes out.
 
People use Rustoleum paint all the time.
I bought a used MPA chassis. The fella I bought it from took the butt off and packaged the threaded rod in bubble wrap, no tape. It was placed under the stock in the rear area. It worked it's way out of the wrap in transit and wore the finish off a spot about a 1" or so long. Right down to the aluminum. I was thinking about going to the store and buying one of those little bottles of paint for your car, gun metal grey. Then a little splatter paint to jazz it up.
 
The point about proper application is I think the most important point. However, as you can imagine, MPA said when I talked to them they said and I quote "The Cerokote is cured. If Cerokote isn't cured it never dries. "

So it is impossible for someone to prove (or know) whether it was cured properly or not. For me, common sense applied here finds the stuff as I have way too week for everyday use. I have used lots of firearms and most in more demanding situations and I have never seen wear like this.

So to me, if it wears this way, no need to spend real money fixing it.
 
Its about thickness. It has be be applied very thin. If its sprayed on like regular paint its not durable. You can beat on it with a hammer and it wont come off if applied right. The metal also has to be blasted with ao and de greased extremely well.
 
I have one I bought 1.5 years ago. I've been very rough with it. Still looks almost new, nothing like yours.
One question I have is with your MPA, is it a folder? If so, did your folder scratch your chassis where it comes together when folded?
 
I cerakote my rifles. I am just a hick with a spray gun and have never had any scratches show up on my rifles. I am not the most gentle person with them either. I wonder if it was mixed with the proper ratio.? I don't think they would fail to cure the rifle but a mixing error seems easier to screw up on.
 
I cerakote my rifles. I am just a hick with a spray gun and have never had any scratches show up on my rifles. I am not the most gentle person with them either. I wonder if it was mixed with the proper ratio.? I don't think they would fail to cure the rifle but a mixing error seems easier to screw up on.
What you say was my expectation which is why I was surprised. Thanks!
 

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