Should I use Rust-Oleum to paint my precision rifle.

[Dgd6mm]

One question I have is with your MPA, is it a folder? If so, did your folder scratch your chassis where it comes together when folded?

No jlow, it is not the folder.

 

[jlow]

Regardless - thanks!

 

[mr.kirk]

I have 2 mpa chassis that were cerakoted at the factory. It looks like the application is correct until you look very close. In the voids, you can see where they missed. Where they missed is not properly abraded. They are backing off the pressure for the aluminum and possibly using old sand. The mpa chassis is a very good product as is cerakote, however, mpa is not applying the cerakote well. Fortunately for me, I co-own a cerakote shop and already planned custom jobs for the guns when I bought them.

 

[mr.kirk]

$100 is a fair price, but I would'nt send it to the guy who messed up the first time unless it was free. The good news is you can do any color you like now. Spray paint works fine. It's not as tough. Brownells sells some stuff that comes in a spray can thats ok. Right now you have a ceramic coating on your gun and if you want a good bond with anything, you need to blast it. Around 80 psi 180 grit aluminum oxide would be ideal.

 

[geraldgee]

$100 is a fair price, but I would'nt send it to the guy who messed up the first time unless it was free. The good news is you can do any color you like now. Spray paint works fine. It's not as tough. Brownells sells some stuff that comes in a spray can thats ok. Right now you have a ceramic coating on your gun and if you want a good bond with anything, you need to blast it. Around 80 psi 180 grit aluminum oxide would be ideal.

If you can find someone to do it for $100, you got a deal. It will need to be completely disassembled, bead blasted, painted (cerakote), cured, reassembled. Several hours plus materials plus equipment costs.

Good luck in whatever direction you choose.

 

[fyrewall]

I like the Rust-Oleum paint, real cheap. I painted most of the non-stainless metal gear that I use on my boat with Rust-Oleum paint and I had enough of it left to paint one of my 6.5-06 rifles - stock, stainless barrel, bottom metal, & top of receiver. I painted the rings but did not paint the matte finish scope because I might want to sell it sometime. That rifle does not have a mirror finish that can be spotted miles away and the paint cost less than that stretchy tape stuff. Minor scratches but not a big deal.

 

[Intheshop]

Just as a data point;

We weld/machine up in two areas that REALLY test coatings.One is shop equipment and if that isn't brutal enough.... try "ground engaged" ag/logging equipment.

A catalyzed industrial,heat cured enamel is right up there on durability.Holds it's shine,easy on the wallet,incredibly fast on application and cure.We do "direct to metal" ,two coats..... then go drag it around in the rocks N woods.Or... not give it a thought on a shop pce as we drop(ooops) hand tools and parts on it.An interesting point is the actual"finish".A somewhat heavy orange-peel,pebbled surface seems,to handle the inside equipment bumps N bruises better than a "flat" surface.JMO,the raised pebbles act as little shock absorbers to the "hit".Outside equipment seems better with a smoother finish?

Good luck with your project.

 

[XTR]

... And hey, rattle can is as tactical as it comes

 

[Papa Charlie]

I have to fold my rifle that has the Cerakote finish on the chassis. I have to fold the rifle to get it into the case, the screw that adjusts the cheek rest bumps into the side of the chassis and scratched the finish. I have since added one those rubber bump dots that you can get at the hardware store. It is almost invisible next to the screw on the cheek piece and keeps the butt from coming in contact with the chassis.