Shop made floating reamer holder ideas?

[Shawnba67]

I have a cheapy floating holder off e bay. It is a flat faced mt3 taper center and a flat backed 7/16 holder. Held together with 3 screws in oversize holes with o rings under the heads. I want to at least entertain the idea of making one on my lathe, and have it as true to my lathe as possible. I still want it to be able to wiggle like a worm, I would just like it to not want to.

 

[Cloudrepair]

This is one I did with adding the right length shouder bolts and springs cut to right length the I mounted it in a mt3 blank drilling and using a boring head in the spindle headstock.
Many ways to do them this one works as good ro better than anything I've tried and easy to use.

 

[Cloudrepair]

After drilling with spindle

 

[Shawnba67]

You holder is similar to mine. And your solution to holding it is beautiful! I forget KISS sometimes. I saw the tool bit in your chuck and nearly slapped myself, thats allowed. I can do that!!
Thank you much.

 

[shortgrass]

One day you guys might catch-up. Tool holders for machine tools have been machined with cutting tools held in the spindle since the dawn of the industrial revolution. The "holes" in the turret on a turret lathe, the tool holders that'll hold double angle collet holders on multiple spindle automatics that are serial numbered to the machine and the position number they are to be used on, the list goes on and is about endless to this day. I've done this on CNC lathes (turret style) , and when carefully done , has solved alinement problems. Why do I bother to have books on the shelf from the very early 1900s (Turret Lathe Practice, Machinerys' Handbook, 1918 edition and 1943 edition, and many more)? Because they are chocked full of information that the "new age machinists" seem to have never learned or info that has been omitted in the new reference sources.

 

[hoz53]

One day you guys might catch-up. Tool holders for machine tools have been machined with cutting tools held in the spindle since the dawn of the industrial revolution. The "holes" in the turret on a turret lathe, the tool holders that'll hold double angle collet holders on multiple spindle automatics that are serial numbered to the machine and the position number they are to be used on, the list goes on and is about endless to this day. I've done this on CNC lathes (turret style) , and when carefully done , has solved alinement problems. Why do I bother to have books on the shelf from the very early 1900s (Turret Lathe Practice, Machinerys' Handbook, 1918 edition and 1943 edition, and many more)? Because they are chocked full of information that the "new age machinists" seem to have never learned or info that has been omitted in the new reference sources.

well i hope you dont retire or die. no one else in this country will be able to get any machining done if youre not around to tell them how to do it.

 

[shortgrass]

well i hope you dont retire or die. no one else in this country will be able to get any machining done if youre not around to tell them how to do it.

Notice I quoted your post Hoz, that way if you decide to delete it, like you have some others, it won't completely go away................

 

[Shawnba67]

One day you guys might catch-up. Tool holders for machine tools have been machined with cutting tools held in the spindle since the dawn of the industrial revolution. The "holes" in the turret on a turret lathe, the tool holders that'll hold double angle collet holders on multiple spindle automatics that are serial numbered to the machine and the position number they are to be used on, the list goes on and is about endless to this day. I've done this on CNC lathes (turret style) , and when carefully done , has solved alinement problems. Why do I bother to have books on the shelf from the very early 1900s (Turret Lathe Practice, Machinerys' Handbook, 1918 edition and 1943 edition, and many more)? Because they are chocked full of information that the "new age machinists" seem to have never learned or info that has been omitted in the new reference sources.

Thank you, this is informative.

well i hope you dont retire or die. no one else in this country will be able to get any machining done if youre not around to tell them how to do it.

This isnt informative.

 

[shortgrass]

Shawn, I contemplated sending you a PM with a bit more info, but decided to post it instead. All have freedom of choice to read it, or not. Notice the jaws on Cloudrepairs' chuck. "Soft jaws". Those can be made of aluminum or steel, or they can be bought from machine shop supply houses, maybe off E-Bay too. If you make, you'll need a vertical mill for the tongue and groove. After you install them, pre-load the jaws by grasping something solid (bar or stout tube) in the master jaws before boring them. This will put you as close to being on "dead center" as you will ever be. I put a ER collet holder in the chuck to hold the cutting tools after that. I can change tools (center drill, drill bit, reamer, boring head, etc.) without opening and closing the chuck. Every time you open and close jaws on a scroll chuck you have the opportunity to induce error, that's why I use a collet holder, I moved the jaws 1 time after boring them. Everything else still applies, twist out of the ways, tail stock alined to the spindle as close as you can get it. Then, make your tool holder.

 

[Cloudrepair]

Shawn, I contemplated sending you a PM with a bit more info, but decided to post it instead. All have freedom of choice to read it, or not. Notice the jaws on Cloudrepairs' chuck. "Soft jaws". Those can be made of aluminum or steel, or they can be bought from machine shop supply houses, maybe off E-Bay too. If you make, you'll need a vertical mill for the tongue and groove. After you install them, pre-load the jaws by grasping something solid (bar or stout tube) in the master jaws before boring them. This will put you as close to being on "dead center" as you will ever be. I put a ER collet holder in the chuck to hold the cutting tools after that. I can change tools (center drill, drill bit, reamer, boring head, etc.) without opening and closing the chuck. Every time you open and close jaws on a scroll chuck you have the opportunity to induce error, that's why I use a collet holder, I moved the jaws 1 time after boring them. Everything else still applies, twist out of the ways, tail stock alined to the spindle as close as you can get it. Then, make your tool holder.

I made those jaws on a cnc mill, feals like cheating sometimes

 

[ridgeway]

Why not simply stick the MT3 blank into the spindle nose taper and machine it?

Simple one I made...

 

[hoz53]

Shawn, I contemplated sending you a PM with a bit more info, but decided to post it instead. All have freedom of choice to read it, or not. Notice the jaws on Cloudrepairs' chuck. "Soft jaws". Those can be made of aluminum or steel, or they can be bought from machine shop supply houses, maybe off E-Bay too. If you make, you'll need a vertical mill for the tongue and groove. After you install them, pre-load the jaws by grasping something solid (bar or stout tube) in the master jaws before boring them. This will put you as close to being on "dead center" as you will ever be. I put a ER collet holder in the chuck to hold the cutting tools after that. I can change tools (center drill, drill bit, reamer, boring head, etc.) without opening and closing the chuck. Every time you open and close jaws on a scroll chuck you have the opportunity to induce error, that's why I use a collet holder, I moved the jaws 1 time after boring them. Everything else still applies, twist out of the ways, tail stock alined to the spindle as close as you can get it. Then, make your tool holder.

see shortgrass you can help people -good job on this post

 

[hoz53]

Notice I quoted your post Hoz, that way if you decide to delete it, like you have some others, it won't completely go away................

excellent- im glad you figured out how to quote a post

 

[hoz53]

Thank you, this is informative.

This isnt informative.

mabie not but i was sticking up for you

 

[MDSpencer]

 

[MDSpencer]

Easy to make an easy to clean your reamer.

 

[MDSpencer]

Only good for one lathe.

 

[GenePoole]

I use a similar setup when going for the last few thousandths. I could use one that sticks out a bit further though. Gets in the way of my custom splash guard.

 

[MDSpencer]

I like my solid holder.

 

[ridgeway]

Solid in tailstock? That tailstock would need to be aligned dead nuts the entire length of quill travel? Otherwise it may cut bigger and still be concentric? I'll stick with my pusher, lol